Hello,
just wanted to summarize all the information regarding Thalia + Shelly UNI.
What we get in HA:
Cover entity with changing icon (gates closed/open) and corresponding buttons enabled.
The states are represented no matter how you activate gate operations.
Configure Thalia
a) use this connection scheme: #60 COM → OUT1 and OUT2 GND, this is common ground #61 IC1 → OUT1 - to activate opening of gates #62 IC2 → OUT2 - to activate closing of gates #51 24V+ → #27 and Vcc(1) #50 24V- → N(2) #20 → IN_1(7) - you will get 24V when gates are moving #26 → IN_2(8) - you will get 24V when gates are closed
b) Set logic of Output 1 to IC=2 : Open
c) Set logic of Output 2 to IC=3 : Close
d) Set logic of Input 1 wired to terminal #20-21, Aux0=6 : “FLASHING LIGHT, Contact stays closed while leaves are operating”
e) Set logic of Input 2 wired to terminal #26-27, Aux3=8 : “MAGNETIC LOCK, Contact stays closed while gate is closed”
Configure your shelly UNI as follows:
a) Chanel 1 and 2 set “Button type” as “Detached Switch”
b) “appliance type” as “relay”
c) set “Timer”->“Auto off” - 0.5 second
d) “Power On Default” - “Off”
e) Restart your shelly uni - this was important for me as shelly was not working properly until I restarted it.
HA should discover your UNI by now, so just configure you entities names.
a) IN_1 and IN_2 sensors are disabled by default, so just enable them in HA UNI device.
b) I have set IN_2 as “bft_shelly_gates_closed”, “Show as”: “Power”, “Icon”: “mdi:gate”
c) IN_1 as “bft_shelly_gates_moving”, “Show as”: “Moving”, “Icon”: “mdi:gate-open”
d) add a cover:
So the implementation looks nice, but any clue about the “stop” feature (stop the gate) ?
That’s the main feature that I would like to have and it seems like no one found a way to have this without the “bft api”
The only way I can think of is using one more relay to break the circuit between #70 and #71. This does stop gates, but I’m not sure this won’t break the states.
I have a BFT Icaro sliding gate and a Shelly UNI to “smartify” it.
I would like to follow rupertas’ summary, but on my board it looks like #20 and #21 are 230v, not 24V. I suppose I can’t wire my shelly’s input to it? In that case where do you think I could plug wire those inputs?
I’m not good at electronics but maybe You could try using some kind of optocoupler or relay on those pins, although it is said “flashing” so the state of “sensor” would be “flashing” as well
I’ve used this setup that you described here, working pretty good so far. Thank you for that.
There is one issue that I encountered, its seems that if you have the aux light connected to the #20-21, even when the gate is closed there is some output which is picked up by the Shelly Uni Int - 1. Only when no light is connected the opening signal is picked up correctly.
Using the #26-27 on Aux3=8 works fine for detecting the gate is closed but it seems enough to get the state of the gate.
I also added another relay to close the #70-71 for stopping the gate on command, it doesn’t break the state which is nice, in case anyone wants to do that.
This is strange, as light is not emitting any power, but I did not test it with lights connected - waiting for spring (too cold now).
You could try swapping Aux0 with Aux3 (contacts, logic etc.) and connect lights on #26-27 as these are dry contacts that you additionally power with #51
I also added another relay to close the #70-71 for stopping the gate on command, it doesn’t break the state which is nice, in case anyone wants to do that
I’m looking to automate my driveway swing doors using a Shelly Plus 1 alongside my ‘V2-CITY1-ECD’ control unit. Can anyone advise which port on the control unit I should connect the Shelly switch to for optimal automation?
Hello, I have a BFT Deimos Ultra BT A600 which embeds a MERAK ARES board. It does output 24V AC and uses it also for the flashing light.
As first tentative, I decided to install a Shelly 1 Plus. I was (wrongly) sure that my board was using DC current. Since I wanted to “read” if the gate was open/closed, I had to lose the 2nd button on my remote because I use AUX 26-27 to turn on/off the garden lights. The only way to get it working was to use a 230V AC to 12V DC transformer.
Then I saw this thread and I got attracted by the possibility to “read” also the flashing light status, so I could get when the gate was moving (and so set the closing/opening states). I first write a template for the gate as “cover” and created some automations to set states, then bough the Shelly Uni (not the Plus version which is not compatible with low voltage AC current).
Unfortunately the Shelly Uni with my unit is useless:
the opened/closed state is not working correctly: the Shelly seems to update it immediately when the gate opens but then it doesn’t update it once it gets closed, unless I reboot it (AUX logic set to n.8 - of course);
when the 2nd input is connected to the flashing light, it starts “magically” to output about 5V AC, which I don’t have when the Shelly is not connected. The result is that this low voltage (which doesn’t turn on the flashing light) is enough for the Shelly to mark the input as ON.
Maybe it’s only my Shelly Uni defective but for the moment after two failures, I gave up the idea of using Shelly devices.
I’m waiting to receive the new “official” module named BFT B-EBA EVO WI FI, which uses the TaHoma app and I hope that it will be compatible with Home Assistant. It’s not as cheap as a Shelly but it’s plug and play and gets all states without write any code. Also, I would not lose the 2nd button on the pysical remote. There isn’t any post about this specific new module not only when talking about Home Assistant but in general if searching some user experiences about it.
I will update this reply/post a new one once I will receive it.
Did you measure the input AC voltage on BTF? You could have “overvoltage” on your grid.
I see that you are using “2nd input” for lights which are #26-#27 and they are dry contacts.
Did you try using the exact schema as in this post?
As that is my configuration and I have no problems with it.
I have a flashing lights connected on #20-#21
I usually have 240V on my grid, I don’t think it can be considered as an over voltage. The problem might be related to the BFT board that did output about 26V AC but everything is working fine, without the Shelly. I use the 2nd input as a contact for a relay, of course.
I did the exact same wiring as the scheme, except for the relais because I was first checking if the input were working correctly
From what I can see sending commands to OPEN or CLOSE us simple - I will just use 2 x Shelly 1 Minis with pins 60/61/62 to complete the circuit for 1 second.
Getting the gate status seems little bit more difficult because it’s all AC.
I have sat with the gate and the manual and a multimeter and like you worked out that setting one of the AUX output connectors (20/21 or 20/26) to the Aux Logic = 1 basically gives you gate status
Aux logic= 1 - SCA GATE OPEN LIGHT output.
Contact stays closed during opening and with leaf open, intermittent during closing, open with leaf closed.
The problem is that it’s 24AC.
I was wondering if all I need to is rectify the output from pin 20 to DC and have that trigger a relay that lets current flow into the high voltage switch inputs in the Shelly 1 Mini G3 (disconnecting the switch input from the relay so it’s independent) then you can read the status of the gate.
Essentially we need a way to have relay where the trigger circuit is can be AC - I guess that doesn’t exist for the obvious reason that it would just vibrate at high speed.
This company looks like they sell something that rectifies the input and can then give another output
I did manage to install the official B-EBA EVO WiFI module (product n. P111816). It’s a little bit pricer (around 75 euros) than Shelly but it’s just plug and play and it works perfectly, without messing around bad voltages and scripts. Also you will keep AUX3 available on your gate board for other appliances.
You first need to do set it up using TaHoma app. Then in Home Assistant you add a Somfy device> select your server, in my case Somfy(Europe)> Cloud API> input the e-mail and password used for TaHoma. Done.
You have both the ability of checking the status and then closing/opening the gate. If you open it via HomeAssistant the status changes immediately to opening and then once stop moving, to open. The same happens with closing.
If you instead open it using the BFT remote (or in the “analogic” way), it needs about 15s to change the status but it only display open/close, not passing from opening/closing states. I think that’s just a “problem” of HA since his states does change immediately in TaHoma.
There’s also a button that allows you to open it partially (for pedestrians).
If you need to add it in HomeKit, just include it in your HA Bridge and it will works out of the box.
That is interesting news. I also have a “B EBA WiFi Gateway” module working with the BFT U-Control app for open. close, etc. How do I integrate it into the Tahoma App? I downloaded the app “TaHoma Classic” but I see no way to add it there? Can you help? Thanks.
The EVO module is different and updated, it does work only with TaHoma app.
The old version is not compatible with TaHoma (and EasyAXS if your board support U-Link 2.0).
You should search about some U-control integration
