Usually, my IKEA FLOALT panel is working as expectet. But every few days or weeks, it does not react any more and I have no idea why (no HA update between working and not working any more).
On the ZHA integrations page, the “last seen” updates every few minutes
and the visualization map looks OK (as far as I understand it):
I use Conbee Stick II on a Intel NUC and Home Assistant 2021.3.2 (HA OS). All other ZHA devices (32 total) work without that issue, some of them are further away from the Conbee Stick.
I have a IKEA Floalt panel within a “kitchen” group in ZHA and every few days the other 3 lights in the group will work fine (off/on/dim) but the Floalt panel will not react to commands. It usually works again after a few tries but still it’s not a nice experience…
No, I did not solve the “Floalt - ZHA” problem, at least not the “debug way”
I disassembled the LED driver, removed the ZigBee Board and replaced it by an ESP32 with esphome.
I checked the behavior of the IKEA Board with a logic analyzer. Then I removed it, used the 3.3V power supply for the ESP32 and used the cwww of esphome to drive the FLOALT. It works very well, and I can dim the panel to a very low value now.
Hi,
same issue here, sometimes Floalt panel not react any more.
All the other Zigbee stuff nearby work fine.
How did you connect ESP32 to Floalt?
Thanks,
-f
I soldered the Output of the ESP to the pads wehere the IKEA controller was before.
After a while, I had trouble with the 3.3V supply of the IKEA board. So I used the higher DC level of the board (iirc 30V) and connected it to a step-down converter that deliveres the 3.3V for the ESP now:
The pinout is marked on the board. As I destroyed some soldering pads when removing the module, I searched “the other end” of them and soldered my wire there.
Same mistake, I destroyed some soldering paths too (PWM2 for example)
Fortunately, I only use warm light so PWM1 is enough.
ESP32 is powered with an external tiny USB charger (following your tip to avoid powering it from Ikea board).
With ESP32 is a completely different story so, thanks again for the hint!
(you can check with a continuity tester)
I think I used that place for soldering my PWM wires instead of the pads.
I’m not so sure about your power supply - How do you assure you have the same ground potential?
If ground potential is not the same, this may lead to malfunction or destroyed parts.
This is the AC connection box, right?
Sounds unsafe for me, yes. The USB charger creates its ground potential “somehow” and the FLOALT power supply creates it “somehow”. As your setup is working, it looks like they are doing it pretty much the same. But there may be little too high or low levels on the PWM pins now - which may cause problems in the future.
I suggest using ground of the FLOALT + 30V DC from the FLOAT and use a DC-DC converter