I used thick silicone double-sided tape and it’s holding firmly. I put 3.3V regulator because that’s what I had lying around.
I tried to replace D0 with D8, but that didn’t work for some reason.
Also, if compiling with A0 as sensor, it must be soldered as well, otherwise WiFi won’t work properly and ESP will boot loop.
Why is it necessary to cut the rotary switch legs if the original board is only used to hold it in place? Or does it interfere with the ESP and provide unreliable readings?
The rotary switch does short one of the outputs to ground, depending on the setting. The original board scans all the inputs (from highest setting to off) and controls the motor accordingly. So if you don0t cut the logs, the switch will fight the ESP when setting the speed. Disconnecting the legs gives full control to the ESP.
Ah sorry, it was a reply to the PWM method which doesn’t power on the original board anymore. I measured the legs and at least for the PWM method it should work without cutting them anymore.
I’m trying the PWM method with a Wemos D1 Mini right now, but for some reason using your code and connecting the D1 pin to the fan pin (and leaving the tacho pin disconnected) won’t make the fan spin at all.
Is there anything I’m missing? The fan itself works, if I touch the bare PWM pin cable it spins up (probably due to induced frequency).
EDIT: Nevermind the fan pin needs a common ground to work properly which I didn’t have in my testing. Works now!
I tried this but unfortunately it doesn’t always switch back on from home assistant after I switch it off. Will have to change the dial to get it back up and running
i also get an error when setting to frequency to 0hz:
Frequency 0.000000 can’t be achieved with any bit depth
I am using an ESP32 and am using the ledc output for PWM
Hi, I just hacked my Fornuftig thanks to your instructions. But I have a question. Can you turn it off by turning the knob if it was previously turned on with ESP?
first of all thanks for all your effort into hacking the ikea fan! Just awesome!
I tried to reproduce it but i cannot get the esp to power up… i connected a 5v regulator (with capacitors) to the 24v and gnd pins, i then measured the voltage and it is 4.99V which is fine. i then connected the D1 to the regulator, the led shortly blinks and thats it, when i know measure the volate while the D1 is connected it is around 1.1V…
By now i tried 6 different ESP8266 and a bunch of different regulators, circuit boards, etc… no matter what i am unable to power the esp through the fans power source…
any idea why this is? or at least an idea how i could figure out what exactly would be the problem.
just to mention: of course i did check for shorted circuits and disconnected everything except the power i event went so far to connect my regulator directly to the 24v cable connector and disconnected the pcb completely… no luck…
Thank you very much @tht for the tutorial also, works like a charm! Has anyone got the PWM fan setting figured out with this same wiring configuration without bypassing the manual knob? Looks like @Nierit you bypassed the knob and how has your’s been holding up?
Great tutorial, but now I am stuck. I can get speed 2 and 3 working, but the lowest speed seems impossible. In the ESP home log, it sswitches correctly, but both the knob and digital selection of speed 1 will stop the fan.
At first I thought I had fried my Wemos, but I have tried two other ones and am having the same problem for them all. Anyone knows how I can troubleshoot this?
Yep, I have it still open, so I can see that the fan has stopped turning. I found out that if I short D4 and Ground together on the Wemos, the first speed is working, but then it doesn’t respond to other settings anymore.
EDIT: Nevermind: got it working, by changing settings so that speed 2 on the knob was speed 1 coming from the wemos and changed it back again. Don’t get it, but it’s working again It only took me two weeks to figure out…