Interesting - after some search on the differences between Zigbee2MQTT (Z2M) and ZHA:
The current default integration ZHA can upgrade firmware OTA, however additional manual config in configuration.yaml is needed to enable it as settings are not in the GUI.
Z2M seems to break out version numbers (2.3.014), whereas ZHA gives raw hex (0x23014631)
After reading the ZHA docs, I pasted the config to enable OTA into configuration.yaml and restarted HASS without any errors, nor signs of anything changing yet.
I’ll report back if the IKEA of Sweden TRADFRI remote control changes from Firmware: 0x23014631 in ZHA.
Distance does drain batteries faster (e.g. a temp sensor in the garden drains faster), and adding ZR mains-powered routing devices may help. That said, my original system had one dongle plugged into a RPi4 and (pauses to get a measure) 480mm away, a remote. The remote battery drained in 1-2 weeks over a distance of under a half metre.
A quick look at Wikipedia for Zigbee and IEEE_802.15.4 suggests transmit power management is at least in the spec BUT the network can be mesh or point-to-point which is interesting as my initial test network only had 2x devices.
Based on my very short distance issues, I don’t think the high battery discharge rate the thread is discussing is explained by RF transmit power - a firmware or protocol interaction seems more likely. Like all good complex faults, the root cause is probably a mix of things across the Zigbee network.
My experience suggests fixing the battery drain issue can be fixed in different ways:
Enable firmware updates in ZHA or check the remote firmware version in Z2M
The latest Tradfri remote version seems to be 0x23080631 / 2.3.080
Add a mains powered Zigbee device(s) to act as a router (ZR) - e.g. a TRADFRI control outlet Mains powered radios can shout louder, and help move from point-to-point to mesh topology
Add any Zigbee device(s) to increase the amount of mesh coverage More devices help move the topology from point-to-point to mesh
Upgrade the firmware in the Zigbee controller stick (or try a newer device) Likely to need manufacturer software and a PC/Mac, so fiddly
Note Tradfri remotes are handled with custom Quirk code in ZHA, although on inspection, this looks to be more to remap the device into a general purpose device, than anything power related.
I have a Tradfri 5 button remote that is still showing 100% battery (and works fine) after around 6 months now. I have 5 of them all having lasted that long but with various other battery levels.
I managed to update the firmware (which took forever) and it seems to be a bit better now, but battery levels seem to go up and down (at least that is what the devices report). I’ll have to wait and see how long they will really last. I have a 5 button dimmer, 2 Symfonisk media controllers and an on/off switch.
Of the IKEA devices. Depending on the device it took between 2 and 6 hours. But the hardest part was to get the (battery powered) devices to start the update in the first place. My Tradfri LED driver (mains powered) did accept the update right away. I placed the remotes near the Conbee stick to eliminate any unsupportive routers but to no avail. Then I placed them near the LED driver and the update started instantly.
(Conbee II with OTA firmware update through Zigbee2MTTQ)
Reading this and tenths of other blogs about the draining and general binding issues with IKEA remotes (i got 3x E1810) I see that there is still no solution. I was wondering to purchase e.g. conbee II to check the firmware version and probably to upgrade, but is looks like even the latest FW does not help.
Is that correct?
if so, is there any reliable other remote known that allows flexible group binding? I am satisfied with TINT remotes (4ch) but they all send to fixed groups and are a bit clumsy to use…
Pretty much… Everyone’s experience is a little differtent. Some have managed to get the Conbee stick to work. I could not. I did solve the battery drain issue using the latest Sonoff Zigbee stick running the latest firmware and MQTT but again there are lots here and elsewhere who could not get the Sonoff stick to work either. We see a similar challenge with people using Smartthings or Hubitate. Some are frustrated some are happy…
This seems to be a feature of the IKEA buttons. Sometimes they will work fine sometimes they just eat batteries.
In my large house, I have 9 IKEA roller binds, with 9 repeaters and 9 (up down) buttons… Since I switched to the Sonoff Zigbee stick everything as been fine and I have not replaced a battery in about 5 months. (on the blinds too)
Sadly there are lots here who claim to have followed the exact same firmware setup on both the Sonoff and the IKEA stuff who are still burning through batteries.