I used a Wemos Mini DHT22 Shield, a Wemos Dq Mini and male dupont cables. GND from IKEA goes to DHT22’s GND the pin next to the GND is not used by the shield so soldered GND and the next pin together. From that pin GND goes to the Wemos.
5V goes from IKEA to the Wemos.
REST goes from IKEA to the Wemos D2 pin.
Wemos D4 pin goes to DHT22 Data.
Wemos VCC (3V) goes to DHT22 VCC.
It is a bit too crowded inside. I placed everything above the pm1006 sensor but if you do not use dupont connectors, but wires only or maybe the solution above with the ESP01 and the 5V->3V converter and a single DHT22 under the fan, you might get a more reliable configuration without blocking any airflow.
Here is the config, I used at that time @Habbie’s repo as an external component, but now you should use @sermayoral’s repo as @Habbie’s code adds a new icon to ESPHome what cannot be picked up as an external component. (Read the GitHub PR from the OP for clarification.) The external component solution is needed until the new version of ESPHome releases the pm1006 component.
# Enable logging
# Enable Home Assistant API
# Enable fallback hotspot (captive portal) in case wifi connection fails
- source: github://Habbie/esphome@pm1006
components: [ pm1006 ]
- platform: dht
name: "Cellar Temperature"
name: "Cellar Humidity"
- platform: pm1006
name: "Cellar Air Quality"
- platform: restart
name: "Cellar Air Quality Sensor Restart"
If any issue drop me a message.
Yes, the readings are in ug/m3 but I would say they’re pretty off. About three of four times too high, but sometimes just two times, so it is hard to convert them. Sometimes it also output “spikes” with even higher values.
Thank you. What is the output of the sensor? Is it a numeric value?
Yes, but I have also created a text sensor with values low/medium/high, according to this IKEA Vindriktning Air Quality Sensor - #34 by rindlerblabla.
Somebody made a custom pcb and used a connector on the main board. Looks also nice.
Hackaday: IKEA Vindriktning PCB
The comparison which shows that the values are way too high.
Can you try to increase the particle content of the air to trigger the IKEA ones to go amber or red? Just to see that the values match with the IKEA description.
If the calculation is off then they will show far more higher values than what the color should represent.
Obviously it is not so easy to increase the particle content slowly in a controlled way. Lit some matches and managed to trigger the sensors, but the values are increasing fast and jump from low to high. But I must says I think they correlate well to the colors. Will evaluate a bit more.
Take an old piece of clothe, and shake it.
Or use a deodorant spray…
The numbers seems to be off by one order of magnitude. Maybe it’s just a matter of adjusting the serial output of the sensor by dividing the values by ten?
I have bought the device from IKEA yesterday and will mod it soon. But I don’t have a second sensor to compare the readings unfortunately.
An old piece of fleece confirmed that the values correlate well to the colors in the manual.
But it is not always multiplied by 10. It differs. They measure similar to each other, but differs pretty much compared with the more expensive ones.
(I needed the USB cable from the third one, hehe.)
Interesting. Seems to be a different (arbitrary) scale than the other sensors.
Then that is how the sensor works and what it measures. It is a bit like comparing apples to pears, I think.
I have a Xiaomi Air Purifier and a Philips Air Purifier and Humidifier, the second one goes down to 1 meanwhile the other stays around 6-8.
Yes, but they should all output measured PM2.5 with the same standardized unit. Do your air purifiers output PM2.5 values? Have you compared the vindriktning sensor with them?
That is a good question, the Philips has PM2.5, AQI and Indoor Allergen Index. The Xiaomi, no idea at the moment. I need to check.
No, I haven’t compared them.
Can you plot them on a history chart etc? Might get a clearer picture of relationship and whether it needs an offset or linear calibration etc…
You can just cut the black cables and use them instead of the pads.
Did you modify the fan voltage?
Here’s a comparison over 24 hours.