Since my knowledge of the internal components is really basic, I am not sure if I have to start a dispute with the seller, or if this is really not important.
No, both are TANTALUM capacitors
If board works, it’s ok. important is number on it: 10 means 10uF (and 16V, as it says). Markings can be different, like 106 also means 10uF.
It’s true that tantalum can “explode”. It’s also true that when tantalum goes bad it many times makes a short, thus destroying rest of circuit…
but, tantalums can be yellow and black.
ESP manufacturers use 3rd party electronic components.
I don’t think it is worth the effort to find out who the producer of the capacitors are; the color and shape may differ from manufacturer to manufacturer, but a 10 µF capasitor is a 10 µF capasitor, regardless of who made them. Besides that, they normally are allowed to have a 10% deviation; it is really not important that they actually are 10 µF.
So the color/shape just depends on where the ESP manufacturer bought their components, which depends on availability and price
Imho nothing to worry about; I have seen capasitors breaking down in several types of equipment, but after 20 tears or more. Most of the times that concerned electrolytic capasitors (the liquid inside tends to dry up), but also tantalus.
In the meanwhile, also the quality/reliability of the capasitors have increase significantly during the last 20 years
Has anyone looked at all the pictures in the aliexpress ad in post 1? Not all of the pics show yellow capacitors, so the device isn’t different to what is advertised anyway.
Could it be that we see different photos in each country? I The model “yellow” (with also yellow legs) has those 2 caps in yellow color. And the other one without 5v pin, has just one but also yellow.
Hey!
I observed that esp boards having yellow capacitors can upload code directly without pressing the BOOT button & in the black button we have to press the BOOT button. So this is causing issue for me. Can anyone help me out with this?