Issues with Sonoff SNZB-03 motion sensor

For a while I fixed this problem.
I have HA docker version, MQTT integration, Zigbeee2MQTT and use CC2531 as coordinator.

I faced the same issue. After smooth run for few weeks, one of my SNZB-03 sensor went offline. Many different attempts, check of the battery resets and nothing.
Then added new one SNZB-03 (I had spared one). No problem with adding, but then linkquality again 0.
I tried different ways.
My sequence, which restored stable linkquality to CC2531 was the following:

  • turn off Zegbee2MQTT container
  • permit joint -> true
  • in HA, MQTT integration, I removed this specific SNZB-03
  • turn on Zegbee2MQTT container
  • SNZB-03 reset to join Zegbee network (5 seconds pressing to have 3 red blinks)

Since that link was established, works stable, sensor recognize movement and restore to off when no movement.

Best!

I just had a Sonoff SNZB-03 motion sensor become irresponsive for the first time, while Aqara Lumi Motion sensor kept on properly reacting to the motion events (both of them hanging side-by-side for testing purposes).

Checking the debug-level HASS logs did not bring in any light on the issue.

What helped me (at least for now) was simply rebooting (power off - on) the Sonoff Zigbee Bridge (Tasmotized according to How to use the Sonoff Zigbee Bridge with Home Assistant - Tasmota).

I’ll have to keep a closer eye on that SNZB-03 from now on and decide whether it should be scrapped, because rebooting ZB bridge is not a long-term solution :confused:

Hello All,

I am having same issues but I am trying to use them slightly differently. For the alarm purposes, I check 2 sensors, For example, Combined Lounge and Hall together.

So thinking is, if someone breaks in from the Lounge, they have to come into the hall. So if both sensors gets activated, then I know something is not right.

I invested in almost £150 (without investigating), so I have to make these work now, Please let me know if you my theory won’t work
Thank you.

Over the last couple of months I bought more of these devices after a good initial experience.

Admittedly there was a bit of a learning curve particularly when reconnecting to the gateway after say reinserting the 2450 cell (PIR reboot). The success rate and time required to reconnect after PIR reboot was somewhat unpredictable. On the face of it resetting the PIR in close proximity to the gateway was a reliable method of reconnecting to the gateway. Apart from being a pain, resetting the PIR creates its own problems.
After much fluffing about I found the PIRs to be reliable and predictable by powering them externally and making note of the points below.

Although the unit works for my multi-room application because the intention was always to modify for external power, the inability to reliably make full use of cell capacity in such an environment is definitely a negative. It probably can make use of more cell capacity when the PIR and gateway are within the same room, but that is not something that was tested.

• Voltage is the primary factor for reliable performance

• A fresh 2450 cell measures approximately 3.35v

• The PIR can exhibit false detections at around 3.05v

• The PIR can disconnect from the gateway at around 3v

• Retentioning the cell contacts can temporarily reduce false detections as voltage approaches 3v

• Typical discharge curve for 2450 is for a steep decline from 3.35v then to 3v at about 40% discharged, hence a short observed battery life (c. 5 weeks) for reliable battery operation in my multi room installation

• Attenuation through building materials limits indoor range to say 10 metres where sensors are located in different rooms/floors through light weight walls/floors

• The higher voltage of a fresh cell increases transmission reliability

• Power cycling the gateway initiates a rescan to reliably reconnect to sensors after a PIR reboot

• If a sensor has a fresh cell and gateway fails to reconnect to a working PIR in situ then the range is likely to be marginal.

As often said… hope it helps.

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After reading the topic I decided to power my SNZB-03 with 18650 battery, which is about 1V more than standard battery. It seems it has solved my issues with sensor being stuck. Before, it used to stop working after a day or 2, even on fresh battery.

hi,

I have a different problem with the SNZB-03 sensor…
This one I dont know if we can solve.

I installed it in a couple of my bedrooms, and then the occupants started complaining of flashing lights in the night… and I do see that there is a LED that flashes once a while…

I understand for pairing we need something, that pairing LED can probably flash from the back side, but in the front !!! Cant they use a IR LED ?

Anyone has solved this problem… HA or no HA I cannot use this sensor…

G

The main differences between CR2450 and LiR2450 batteries in the voltage, capacity, and of course, rechargeable feature . Voltage difference - due to the voltage difference of ~0.6-0.7 volts, not all devices powered by the CR2450 battery will operate properly when powered by the LiR2450 battery.

Has anyone tried the rechargeable LIR2450 vs the conventional one?

I’ve had this too, resetting/repairing solved it.

I got 2 of these and was happy only for few days. At first it work flawlessly so to say it detects movement instantly compare to wifi sensor (although with quite longer cool down period but it’s fine for me). Then it just stop working randomly, sometimes not detecting people sometimes not clear the detection making my automations haywire. I thought it was because of position not good and tried to reposition to the best spot already but still it’s not reliable as wifi sensor (which is powered by USB). Then today, after many times of resetting and repairing I saw battery already drop to 6%!!! At this rate of battery drain I think I need a rechargeable battery otherwise battery will cost more than the sensor itself.

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I did disable the tamper detection and battery level detection after having issues with false positives.
I have 2 of them and they work now for about 2,5 months without any problem.

In the near future I will enable those entities again to see if it makes any difference.

Updated.
I did some tweaks to the battery connector following this suggestion, I guess it’s same as some other folks here adding paper between battery and cover. After that my sensors are working fine so far (finger-crossed).


On the other hand, battery now reported as 88%, dont know what happened with 6% but it is still quite a drain from fresh battery just for 3 days. The other sensors which got battery on same day still reporting as 100%.
This 88% sensor is placed in the kitchen where we might have prolonged motion (like cooking), will it contributed to battery drain so quickly? Can I setup some schedule to disable it while I dont need it to report to HA?

I did that too, bending the contacts and putting some cardboard between battery & lid but that didn’t take away the problem.
Strangely enough now they are working fine without the cardboard and I’m under the impression that this is just because of resetting/repairing, but I might be wrong.

This problem seems to be so vague…
When they work, they are a VERY good value for money, if not: useless.

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Yes, it’s very good value when they work but I’m so frustrated when they didn’t. Especially when I used them to control my light, it may keep the light on for hours!
Today when I checked the logbook I found in early morning while I was sleeping, they keep motion on for few hours then somehow cleared by themselves.
I really want to dump them TT_TT

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I’m also using to control lights, so I know the feeling.

Maybe try this with 1 that gives these false positives:

  • make sure the contacts touch the battery well
  • don’t know which integration you use (I’m using deCONZ), but try to make sure the name of device/entity stays the same and reset/repair.
  • disable the tamper control & battery level entities

It’s a mystery to my why but I did the resetting/repairing a few times before it was right and I’m on the verge of ordering some more of this type.

I had problems as well with the SNZB-03 using zigbee2mqtt. I solved this by buying the Sonoff zigbee Bridge and it’s been solid for about a year now with quick response times. The only downside is it relies on having Internet access (and ewelink servers being up) even using the SonoffLAN integration

I’ve got a pair of SNZB-03 sensors that both used to work fine, but I recently upgraded to a conbee II and deconz as I was adding a few new sensors and now both of these SNZB-03 units are toggling evey 60 seconds between occupied and not. I’m going to put the old zigbee stick in and repair them to that and see what happens

I use a SNZB-03 as a hallway sensor, using a Tasmota flashed Sonoff Zigbee-Wifi gateway and ZHA integration linked via automation to a zigbee bulb. I use the Sonoff Zigbee-Gateway as my server is hidden away and a USB co-ordinator doesn’t reach well. Using the Gateway hub I have it plugged in upstairs.

As a rule this setup works very well, lovely and quick automations, been in place nearly two years.

Can anyone tell me the cool down and re-trigger time for this sensor?

I’m struggling to work it out. I’d like to have an automation that when triggered turns a light on for a minute and then fadeout, but extend that minute if presence is re-detected, but I think it’s the cool down thats messing me up, When testing this, the sensor seems to be acting a bit odd and sporadic.

Reading the thread, it seems the Hue sensor may resolve the issue as has a fast cool down and re-activate?

I had a similar issue, I bought a sonoff ZB motion sensor and had issue with my automations. I first thought it was my sonoff dongle (knowed for pairing issues when the firmware was not up to date) so i flashed the firmware but the same problem occured. I tried on ZHA and on Z2M, it both cases, it did not work great. When i was using Z2M, i saw that the battery level was set to low even though i bought the device less than 2 weeks ago. I use a voltmeter to check the battery and saw that the battery was full. I then saw your solution and gave it a shot ! It finally works. Huge thanks dude, i was just about to send it back and order more expensive ones that would have drained my bank account !
As you said, i curved a little bit more the pin used for connecting the + terminal and the plus side of the battery and added a piece of paper between the plus side of the battery and the plastic cover in order to force the connexion between the battery and the contactor.

@lmelltsi: good for you that you got it working!

I’m not 100% sure that it has to do with any of these (pins or back cover) unless it’s obvious that the battery doesn’t touch the pins.
I wonder if re-paring after fiddling with them is the reason why they suddenly work.

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It was not really obvious, from where i was standing, the contact between the battery and pins was normal but i still gave it a shot and it worked ^^

it might be the reason indeed, but i had to fiddled with it first because before that, i re-paired it dozens of times and it still didn’t worked properly