I like to keep the design line of the switches which is already installed in my home and upgrade them with zigbee.
The obvious way are these shelly things behind the switch. As far as I understand them, they are used to control the lamp, but this is not needed in every room. In some rooms I have zigbee lamps which needs a continuous power supply.
Can I still use devices like the SONOFF ZBMINIL2 but not directly control the lamp via the wires and just record if the button is pressed and create an automation with it. Does this work with switches and also with push buttons?
Of course you can. Just not wire the output of these devices in that case. I do have seen switch sensors that can be build in and have no output relay also, but it seems not to be cheaper.
Keep in mind that it is advisable to use home automation in such way that it always can be controlled manually also. It is simply better for the WAF
The WAF is exactly why I am asking 
Perhaps you misunderstood me:
I want to keep the switches working but some control zigbee lights and some will Control classic leds.
Just another question: On aliexpress these modules are dead cheap (like 2€) and in german amazon they are about 15€. Dou you have a recommendation?
Although all this stuff is made in China, be aware that they need to be of good quality in the sense of safety. You build them in your wall and they handle high voltage.
Using such a device in parallel still enables the switch to function normally, but you can then switch other devices from HA based on the state of the switch.
If you use the device with the relay, the switch will also be working normally but you can also control the switch from HA. This is why I have chosen to use the later one.
If the relay (the thing in the wall?) cuts off power to the zigbee light, I can’t control it from other devices like my smartphone. I then must indirectly control the relay in the wall to first restore power?
Best not to switch of Zigbee lights with a relay. Most Zigbee lights are Zigbee routers, and you disturb the mesh by cutting their power. Zigbee lights are meant to be powered all the time. Use a detached switch for Zigbee lights.
I don’t think so with the zbminil2 because it is a no neutral device and requires a load.
The original zbmini could work.
The best solution is to get a switch with decoupled mode.
In the US, the inovelli blue series is easily the best and most featured switch. Supports decoupled mode and zigbee binding, so the basics should work with or without a functional HA.
My problem is that my switch series is busch jaeger and they are pretty expensive then it comes to zigbee.
The power supply for the zigbee switch is about 50€ (Busch-Jaeger 6710U ZigBee Light Link Netzteil-Einsatz) and the zigbee switch itself is even more expensive, about 60€ ( Busch-Jaeger 6735-884 Bedienelement ZigBee Light Link 1-fach 2CKA006730A0100 6735884).
For a single light switch which would be very expensive.
would the MOES ZigBee RF433 work? It has a neutral wire.
I can’t find zbmini on german amazon 
Most with neutral relays could be made to work.
If the relay itself doesn’t support decoupled mode, then you would wire the to be always on, with the switch connected to the relay. But as previously mentioned, at that point the switch would be non functional if HA were down.
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Also not working for me
edit:
SONOFF Smart lichtschalter, MINI R2
Seems to work for me.
Mini R2 is WiFi, not Zigbee
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Shelly relays can be used in decoupled (detached) mode. I have done this exactly for some ceiling lamps where I have Hue bulbs installed.
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Is long press possible for dimming smart bulbs?