Very nice. Thanks for sharing the prints. Will this just need another piece to grip the inside of the tube?
Have anybody been managing to get a 12V torque motor working. Something like this? .https://a.aliexpress.com/_BPnG1f
Perhaps with a H bridge for reversing the current + to - and - to +. Or another solution for this
I got pretty big blinds, so I am in need of some torque. I got the motor (different then the link) already laying around, but the code is something else.
Lemme know
Yes, that’s what I can’t make without the exact dimensions.
Hi,
I have an Nema 17 (17HS19-2004S1) which I want to use together with an A4988 and an NodeMCU v3.3.
This stepper motor is rated 2.0A, the A4988 Rsense is 0.1 Ohm and I want the max current to be 70% so I have adjust the Vref of the A4988 to 1.12V.
I have tried different ESPHome codes posted by other users in this thread and and they seems to work…if I connect the SLEEP with RST pin.
This will cause the A4988 and stepper motor to always be on and the A4988 will will eventually get very hot.
Isn’t the sleep_pin:
suppose to make the A4988, go to sleep, and not use any power?
I have tried to use the sleep_pin:
in my code and connect it from my NodeMCU to the SLEEP pin of the A4988 but I cannot control it if I don’t connect SLEEP with RST.
How du use it?
How have you connect it to get it working?
Thanks!
is your sleep pin maybe inverted on the A4988
I had this problem
Hi,
For the record, this is the code I’m trying now:
I have now tried with both of these but none of them will work:
sleep_pin:
number: D2
inverted: no
sleep_pin:
number: D2
inverted: yes
And if I then connect RESET with SLEEP everything start working as expected…
Hi again,
I think I got it working!
Maybe it’s abvious but for me I had no idea of this until I read about this in a post somewhere else.
I still have D2 connected to the SLEEP pin and then I connected the RESET to the 3V.
Then everything started to work as expected.
Really don’t know
around 30-40s
As my roller blind are also quite big and heavy, I am trying to use a NEMA 17 and this gearbox: https://www.instructables.com/3D-Printed-161-Nema-17-Gearbox/
I am struggling with fixating the the nut to the bold. In the instructions above, some glue is used https://youtu.be/87yFGr4fGRY?t=143 As I do not have some special glue, I have tried it with hot glue, but that isn’t working. I’ll need some specific glue for metals, I suppose.
For those who, like me, need to open a large blind fast and not struggle with it rolling down when the power is removed, I have a DC worm-drive motor working very well.
My blind is over 2m tall in an exit doorway so the target opening time is less than 10 s - it is currently about 12 s and I’m hoping to reduce that!
The full code is at Motorised blind. Remember position - how? - I continue to search for a way to make the blind position survive power failures but the rest of the code works just fine and may help someone.
I’m looking for something you’re using. Can you sketch up how you have connected everything to your ESP? Would help me alot
I’m using a D1 mini and the following:
- Touch sensor module to D0
- Adafruit TB6612 module to D6 and D7 (see Adafruit or Sparkfun connection info https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/tb6612fng-hookup-guide)
- LED to D3 and +3V3 through resistor (can’t remember the resistance, maybe 100Ohm)
- two 3144 Hall effect ICs connected to D1 and D2 for rotary encoder. See https://components101.com/a3144-hall-effect-sensor for connection diagram)
- Sharp GP2Y0D21YK0F optical sensor connected to D5 https://datasheetspdf.com/datasheet/GP2Y0D21YK0F.html
I use a 5V DC-DC converter to provide the 5V to the Hall effect sensors, D1 Mini, the optical sensor and the TB6612 https://recom-power.com/pdf/Innoline/R-78E-0.5.pdf, with capacitors etc. The 3V3 of the D1 Mini supplies the LED, Hall effect sensors, touch sensor.
I designed and 3D printed a new blind end for the motor that has a series of magnets mounted into it.
The motor is a 12V worm drive motor like this
Hope that helps.
Thanks for the clarification. How do you power your 12v motor? As the incoming power for the D1 mini is 5V max?
The 12V supply goes direct to the H-bridge TB6612 and to the r-78-e0.5 DC-DC converter - the 5V from that goes to the D1 etc.
Thx. This helped me alot
Thanks Richard!
Can you share some details? Which parts do you use, and how is it mounted? Is the motor mounted at one end, and the rotary encoder at the other? I have everything working with some 28BYJ-48 on 12V, but I find them way to slow since the maximum speed I can set them to without skipping steps is 450 steps.
All the essential details are above. I 3D printed a housing and added the magnets to the rotating blind end. I’ve since found motors like this and I’d use one of these if I did this again https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Reversible-GW4058-31ZY-Worm-Gear-Motor-Self-locking-High-Torque-With-Hall-Drive/274534578568
Hope that helps.
thanks for the code. Let me know if you figure out the stuttering.