Dr Zzz, has an updated model with car detection.
I installed meross and love it, although it’s another cloud device. For me integration with apple HomeKit is more important but the HACS works great. The ability to say close the garage and it just closes without the beeping is great. Super easy to install too. I even attached mine to the push button opener as that was easier to get to.
The below was all I needed(there is a non HomeKit version too)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08Q37KSBF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_RRB-FbK5XD0MC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
for that meross one does the homekit integration still work if you dont have an active internet connection?
Looks like it does, I was surprised. I unplugged my modem waited a minute, made sure I was still on WiFi, then opened my garage and it worked.
As expected the home assistant cover was unavailable.
It’s all working with just the Meross controller and no additional piece. (The information on the website indicates that Chamberlain controllers with the yellow lean buttons work completely, but require the additional piece. However, when I ran through the app and identified my controller (B550) the app said it should work as is. In fact it does. (No additional piece required.))
I can heartily recommend the Meross controller as a fully functional option whether you’re having issues with myQ and Chamberlain/Liftmaster door openers or just want to automate any brand opener you have.
Here’s an Amazon link for the Meross controller I used: https://amazon.com/dp/B07L5DPK8P
There is another nearly identical unit that works with HomeKit instead of Google Home.
Further information:
- Using the myQ integration, the door returns 4 states: Open, Closed, Opening, and Closing. The Meross integration (through HACCS) only gives two: Open and Closed. This doesn’t really strike me as a problem.
- Right after I got the Meross unit installed myQ began working again (!?) It still occasionally goes off-line, but not nearly the constant back-and-forth that marked the latest change in the myQ API. I am not entirely sure why it’s back to mostly working.
- For people still having issues with myQ itself, there appears to be an additional fix (Set user agent as a variable that can be provided upon login) that will circumvent Chamberlain’s blocking.
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The Meross controller looks like the best option for me. Thanks for the report.
That fix was supposedly included in the Core 2021.1.1 upgrade but some of us still have problems. Mine was working mostly yesterday after the updated with intermittent disconnect/reconnect but I woke up to it showing unavailable.
I’d like to see the response to the post here MYQ not working again - #205 by GaryOkie
I myself got extremely tired of the unreliability of MyQ. It worked well; when it did; but that still isn’t good enough.
I wound up installing a proximity sensor that actually does MORE than MyQ did; especially no “clear area” alarm when the cover was about to move. It was annoying for one; and the fact that I couldn’t disable it was another issue for me.
This proximity sensor simply has a signal wire going to my garage door; with distance measurements from my garage ceiling when the door is open; car present in bay (as measured by the hood); as when empty (distance to garage floor); all measurements taken by the sensor every few seconds.
I would HIGHLY recommend giving this a shot. Set up and install was a BREEZE!
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Well darn. I miscoded one line from my configuration so, when I thought my Meross unit was opening and closing the door, it turns out my myQ was doing it. Apparently I do need that extra piece.
The status is reported reliably, but it doesn’t trigger my door opener. I sort of figured that should be the case because it’s using a pulse code instead of a simple contact closure.
I’ll let you know how it works out once I get the add-on.
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I was reading a bit on the product page. So does this learn the code just like your car or the keypad does? So it doesn’t wire into the existing garage door opener, it just sends the signal OTA?
I updated the original post with some of the alternatives posted. If I missed an alternative or the info is vague or incorrect please let me know.
It has a hard line wire from the sensor device directly connected to the garage door motor itself; so no RF signal or anything.
When it receives an instruction; it simply sends a signal along the wire to the motor to activate.
I have read many reports where MyQ has some sort of added security which is why GoControl or other hard wired solutions do not work. Does this bypass that? Sorry if these are silly question. Just trying to understand.
OpenGarage shall hereforth be referred to as ‘OG’.
MyQ (as I understand it) is merely the ‘hub’ (if you will) that sends an RF (radio) signal to the garage door motor that you have after you pair it to your garage opener.
OG completely bypasses that step entirely; as it is hard wired using an electrical signal (instead of RF). There is no pairing required.
Let me attach a few photos in a follow up post; for clarity.
The first photo shows two wires coming from the sensor; to the motor. One is power; one is the signal wire.
The second photo shows the rear of my motor; with the white signal wire going directly into the motor. This is what provides the signal to open / close; instead of using RF.
NO PAIRING REQUIRED! 
Unfortunately this does not work with garage door openers that have the Yellow Learn Button and the Yellow Antenna. For these, you will need to either wire in a working garage door opener remote or buy the Security+ 2.0 addon.
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This was the other method of wired installation; forgot to mention that.
Although in my setup this was not required for me on a Genie brand motor - YMMV.
Great information, @ssilence!
Exactly right. It seems the “Security 2.0” systems (Chamberlain/Liftmaster, and a few others) send a pulsed signal along the wired connection. (I’ve never been entirely sure why this increases security as, in order to short the two wires that lead from the panel, you need to be in the garage already and, if you’re there, you can just push the button on the panel. 
)
At any rate, the add-on is something that generates that pulsed signal.
Alternatively (as I did in one of my previous attempts), you can wire the leads to the button on the panel or to the button on a remote which has been paired to your system. Either way works, but it involves soldering and voiding the warranty on either the remote or panel so some folks are shy to do it.
I’ve got the hardware on order right now. Specifically, the issue (as some have already noted) is that “Security + 2.0” openers from Chamberlain/LiftMaster send a coded pulse along the wires connecting the panel to the drive unit. (This seems like gilding the lily to me, but so it is.) This add-on either (I’ll let you know when I get it.) sends that coded pulse or acts like a remote control (and gets paired with the drive unit). The myQ add-on for those who don’t have a myQ drive with WiFi does the later. I did the former with a previous install, but would like to find a solution that doesn’t involve soldering. (Some folks lack the tools or the inclination.)
To work around “Security+ 20” I purchased an inexpensive (~ $10 USD) LiftMaster 883LM Security+ 2.0 MyQ Door Control Push Button. You solder a relay to the small push button so the relay simulates pushing the security+ button (not closing the circuit to the opener). You then wire up the button normally to the motor.
I use esphome (ESP12s Huzzah) to toggle the relay. I housed the ESP12s, relay, and button together in a project box on the motor near the convenient A/C outlet on the ceiling:
This is basically the same thing pashdown wrote about (see main thread and his photos in that link) and it’s been working for a couple years now.
For sensing the state of the garage door I use a simple Z-Wave magnetic door sensor (photo of installation in link):
Yes. Exactly what I was describing in my post preceding yours (but with less detail).
It works, but it’s clearly a kludge.
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