Now here comes my problem:
I hooked up a 12V-1.5A power block to the IN+ and IN-, and it fried my unit.
I understand that this is a 12V model, and requires 12V DC for operation.
So I ordered another one, and did all the same steps, apart from hooking up the 12V-1.5A adaptor.
I don’t want to blow this unit, but I want to have it mains powered with a 12V adaptor if possible.
What am I missing here? I understand that the power amperage draw should be what it needs, as long as it is 12V, or do I need an adaptor with lower Amps?
Is there something else that I’m missing?
Kinda confused here, as the whole thing seems to work using the 5V/GND jumpers.
I don’t think this can be powered by 12v. The description isn’t great, but the details do mention 12v which I think is just the model number of the relays.
Probably need to power with a 5v adapter not a 12v
Hey thanks for responding.
I’m no sure myself, and I’ve been looking at the listing descriptions for days trying to figure out if I should risk frying my replacement.
In the listing for my item, its mentions both:
The board contains 12V, 10A/250V AC 10A/30V DC relay
In +, in: 5 V voltage input.
I assume this might indeed mean that 12V is the current through the switches, rather than the power for the unit itself? I find it quite confusing, but the mention of “In +, in: 5V” seems to indicate it runs off a 5V.
Should this then run off a 5V USB line?
I tried this and the board does not power up, but does work if I attach the same USB 5V to the jumpers (1st pic in 1st post). Confused there.
The best I could find online was a YouTube video of someone who got a similar board, and documents making it work. I noticed in the listing they purchased (visible in the video also), that there is a 5V and 12V choice available.
He used 12V and it works, but at least I know there are 12V and 5V versions.
The Amazon listing says “IN +, IN-: 5V Spannungseingang” which means 5V input.
The first reviewer says “Super schlechte Beschreibung, die Eingangsspannung beträgt 12V, nicht 5V. Ich habe stundenlang versucht das Ding zum laufen zu bekommen, bis ich irgendwann rausgefunden habe, dass das Board schon bei der Auslieferung im Error Mode war, warum auch immer. Die rote LED auf der Platine muss leuchten, nicht die blaue. Hierzu muss beim starten die Taste S1 oder S2 gedrückt und gehalten werden, dann nochmal starten und schon lässt sich das Relais ansteuern”:
Very bad description, input voltage is 12V, not 5V. I’ve tried to get this working for hours, until I found out that the board was in error mode right from the outset. The red LED in the PCB should light up, not the blue. To do that press S1 or S2 during startup, then restart, and then you can control the relay.
It’s fine to switch + and - if the voltage is not higher then 5v in my experience so just try to switch the wires. Striped or not, that color method is not always used correctly which creates confusion.
You should invest in a multimeter and a circuit tracer and trace some wires.
You haven’t said what exactly broke when you put 12v into it. What were the symptoms?
The esp8266 board is powered by 3.3 v - see the description of the headers in photo 3 - right hand side. So there should be a power converter - probably a buck converter on the main circuit board. I am referring to the amazon photos, not your ones.
I note too that there are at least 3 header pins with jumpers on the main board. Above the green screw terminals in photo 2. Any idea what they are supposed to do?
Bloody chinese mass producers, they should be forced to properly document their products.
Well, I guess you may want to consider if this seller is actually reliable. The description says 5V, you say that 5V does not work with your device, an Amazon reviewer says only 12V worked for him…
Might be a good time to get the multimeter out and check the power supply’s output. And at the same time you could check if IN+ is actually connected to the 5V pin on the board - if so, I wouldn’t connect a 12V power supply.
That’s how I understand that reviewer’s recommendation. But I don’t own that board, so I can’t confirm.
If it helps, the description says:
Description says: “Anschluss für reservierten Zwei-Kappen-Jumper: Im Allgemeinen, fügen Sie sie nach unten, das ist RX zu RX1, TX zu TX1. Setzen Sie sie nach oben, wenn Sie es als USB-Modul verwenden”:
Connection for reserved jumpers:
In general, place them at the bottom, i.e. RX to RX1, TX to TX1. Place them at the top if you use it as USB module.
It seems that you can remove the ESP and then use this board via USB somehow.
Well the first time I plugged in 12V, the 4 small black chips to the far left (just in shadow of the blue relays in 1st pic) smoked and blew. Second time I tried later, the large capacitor exploded, which wasn’t great.
I’m sure the 12V supply I’m using is reliable, I’ve used it before.
I’m hesitant to switch the wires, but I’ll give it a try.
Edit: Using the 5V, I tried switching them around. Nothing happened, the unit still wont power up using the terminals.
I’m not sure about doing that with the 12V supply. Not gonna do that just yet.
It’s honestly the exact same board in the first 2 pics and Amazon links from the first post.
All the board markings are visible, and it looks identical. Those pics are better than I can ever take.
In an ironic cruel twist of fate, my phone stopped syncing my photos yesterday evening, and I’ve been trying to get pictures up past my first 2. Just got some pics from it now.
I was hesitant to try 12V again, as I dont want this one to break, but it seems to be working.
You can see here the small black chips I referred to earlier, labelled Q1/Q2/Q3/Q4, that smoked and burned when I tried the first time. The capacitor labelled C4 violently popped the send time. I threw that 12V 1.5A supply away, it worked fine before, maybe its borked now. No idea.
