Non-smart LEDs + smart switches + optional(!) Home Assistant integration possible?

Here you go mate. Normal looking, rotary dimmers which support wired up to 3-way (with companion dimmers) & up to 3 gangs per switch https://candeo.io/product-category/smart-dimmer-switches/protocolsearch-zigbee/

They're zigbee & they seem to be aimed at the UK market, but you should be able to get the base smart dimmer on its own & add your own faceplate. They posted about it here, so I suggest you reach out to them because those dimmers aren't cheap.

There's plenty of other rotary dimmers listed on the Z2M device page, though I have no clue if they support 2-way. At least now you know that these things exist despite what others say :slight_smile: