I am new to HA, but have spent the past few days researching and reading this site for a project I am working on. I’m helping to create a home constructed with Cross Laminated Timber (CLT) in the US, and I am working on how to set up lighting. The walls, floors, and ceilings are all solid wood, so we have to use wireless self-powered or battery powered wall switches adhered to the walls, which then connect to a receiver that controls an LED strip that runs along the ceilings or coves or etc. We are starting with lighting, and then later will tackle other automations.
Currently, my idea is to have a HA green with the Connect ZBT-1 (or yellow so I don’t need the Connect ZBT-1), wall switches similar to a Zigbee Smart Switch Intelligent Wireless Remote, and then with the LED having a driver like a Zigbee Constant Current CCT LED Driver to power and control the LED.
Being new to HA, it makes sense to me thinking through it, but of course all newbies think that, so I thought I should ask. TIA!
The first thing to do is double check with an electrician who knows the code being used where this build is being done… I’m not sure about current code, but previous NEC versions required all habitable rooms, kitchens, and bathrooms to have at least one wall-switch-controlled lighting outlet (or wall-switch-controlled receptacle in bedrooms)… and those wall mounted switches could not be completely dependent on batteries.
In my experience Tuya’s Zigbee devices can be very hit-or-miss. I haven’t kept detailed stats, but I would estimate, conservatively, that 1 in 4 battery-powered devices and 1 in 6 mains-powered devices just will not stay connected to the mesh reliably. If you decide to go that road, purchase at least 50% more devices than you need.
Also, you should make sure you have at least 2 Zigbee router devices per room.
A few thoughts from someone who’s spent time in the building trades…
In your favor is the fact that all these systems run on low voltage. That makes code compliance easier when installing these things. But…
It also brings up code-related design issues. You need mains outlets every 6 feet. As already mentioned, there are probably issues related to lighting and switches.
What’s usually done when utilities can’t be buried in the wall is to just attach them to the outside of the wall. You can buy baseboard trim for this. And of course there are those ugly rectangular conduits which can be attached to walls and ceilings.
My big question is: Why? Can this material not be drilled? If it’s something you’re trying to promote, you won’t be winning any customers by showing a house with unusual or ugly technology. Likewise something which can’t be easily redecorated, customized, remodeled or repaired. Homeowners like to redo a place to make it their own, or to bring it up to current standards.
Thanks so much for the response! Good idea on the code. I checked the code for where we are building and found the section you are referencing. It does not appear to say hard wired switches only… might be a gray area. But, I am going to consult with our electrical engineer on what they have to say.
We’ve actually been looking at that link as we design. Of course, and this is what CaptTom mentions as well, penetrating through the CLT and running electrical like normal would be a route to go. But, we are planning on building this house to passive house standards, and if we don’t have to create penetrations, we would rather not. But, may end up being the best option, we will see.
Also very good to know on the reliability. Imagining the future frustration of all your battery switches not functioning and having to just deal with a potentially dark home until it’s resolved is definitely something we should think about haha.
I was maybe unclear. For power outlets, since they’re only around 12" off the floor, the manufacturer is able to drill in the middle of the CLT, as well as CNC out the space for the box. Then the wiring is going to run under the baseboard as you mentioned, and under the floor build up if we really need to. That just leaves switches.
For why, the challenge of figuring out somewhat new building technologies and methods, the flexibility, maybe a little just because it could be cool haha. Our idea is that wireless wall switches are quite flexible, moving them is much easier. But, I do definitely see your point on the unusual, I think there may be some combination of traditional wired switches paired with wireless, but we have yet to get there for this project. Thanks so much for your response!