I also use the “burglar” value to detect motions on the HS-FLS100+. I can confirm the 8=motion, 0=no-motion readings. However, sometimes, my sensor also spits out 254 for this value over extended times. Any idea what this means? Is it some kind of sleep mode, perhaps?
I haven’t checked in a while, but is this after a restart of Home Assistant or a power outage? I know when I restart HA I have a different value for burglar until something actually sets motion off.
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Wow, @calmor15014 — that was a superfast response! Thanks so much! I will have to check whether there is a correlation between restarts and the state of this value. I am usually not restarting HA, but sometimes, I am restarting the entire server.
Hey, did you end up buying the 433Mhz? Does it work well? Thanks!
Yes, 254 means the sensor is in deep sleep. It’s normal for battery powered ZWave devices. This value is a little problematic, as it doesn’t indicate a certain state by itself. The sensor can enter the 254 state from either 0 or the 8 state. So you can’t generally deduce the real state of the sensor if it’s in the 254 state, you have to use the state it had just prior to going into deep sleep. This requires some creative templating.
But that’s not really a problem with motion sensors. They will typically not stay in the active (8) state long enough to go to deep sleep. So fwiw, for motion sensors 0 or 254 means no motion. 8 means motion.
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@HeyImAlex: Thank you so much for this detailed explanation! This makes a lot of sense and is very helpful. I especially like that explanation that the 254 state corresponds to “no motion” (0). I can confirm this, as I seem to have been able to “wake up” the sensor from a 254 into a motion state (8) just by walking into its detection range.
Just one little addition/correction: the HS-FLS100+ device I was talking about is not battery powered; it is actually line powered. @calmor15014 had suggested above that status 254 may be related to restarts. Indeed, a few of the recent observations of the 254 status I was able to correlate with restarts I had carried out. Could it be that the sensor “hangs out” in this status until it comes alive after the first motion detected?
Well, according to the ZWave specifications, 254 means deep sleep. When and how exactly the sensor goes into this mode will differ from one sensor to another and depends on what its firmware considers a good time to sleep. Some don’t do deep sleep at all, others do it very often. When you restart HA while a sensor is in deep sleep, then you can get the 254 state on startup. In any case, a sensor will always exit the 254 state whenever it’s triggered. So for short burst triggers like motion sensors, 254 can be safely handled as equal to 0 (no motion).
For sensors that can stabilize in either state, things are more complex. Imagine a window sensor, being at 0 when the window is closed. After a while it will go to 254 from 0. But if you leave the window open (state 8) for long enough, it will also go to 254. So you can’t equal 254 to 0 for these type of sensors, you need additional logic to get the real state.
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Sorry for being late to the game on this one. I just started trying to get my Guardline connected to HA. Do you have any details on how/where you connected the D1Mini to power it? I’m hoping to hide the D1Mini in the battery compartment, and it would be great if I could use the power from the Guardline to keep the D1Mini powered and contained inside the unit. Thanks for the post, this has helped me a lot so far!
@specsix you state that you used the power input directly from the adapter. Did you get a special ESP board for this? All of my boards are 5v max at least from the pin outs. Did you use something to step the voltage down? I’m getting ready to tear into my guardline and use your example as my build but I don’t want to fry the poor little D1 Mini board.
I have a totally different version than whats posted here there is hardly any room inside of this thing. I ended up having to shove the ESP board inside of the speaker hole. Then I used the little punch hole in the back of it and ran a USB cable in to power the ESP.
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Hi there @specsix - i’m sorry to bring back such an old thread but just wanted to also ask how you managed to power the d1 with the same connector? @jbloink were you ever able to figure it out?
I just opened up mine up and wondering if I need a 12v to 5v step down or buck converter, soldered from the 12v pins to the converter, to the d1? Again, sorry for bringing up this old thread and thanks in advance!
I ended up using 2 power adapters for mine. One for the Guardline and another for the D1 Mini. I hid the D1 inside the base unit and ran a USB cable into it through one of the little slits on the bottom (after knocking it out). I didn’t want to spend too much time or effort on it. Since the base unit can go anywhere, I didn’t mind using 2 outlets. It works great. I have one at the end of my driveway, another on my porch, another on my deck stairs, and the last entering my backyard from the driveway. I change the batteries in the sensors about once every 6 months. I have the motion events triggering Telegram through Node Red. I also have the driveway one announce on the Alexa when it detects motion between 7am-9pm so I know when someone pulls into my driveway.
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Thanks for letting me know. I managed to overnight this part, and I just hooked it up to the same power source, it works great. Here is a pic of the wiring if anyone stumbles across this one day.
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That is cool. Well done.
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well darn it now I"ll have to follow suit with you on this. Thats a nice small buck converter. The ones I currently have are way too big to put into this case but that will do the job
Worked great. I left the buck inside, on the ribbon cable / in that area. I put the d1 mini in the battery compartment. I had to remove some of the plastic but it all closed up great and is working well (I did have to move some wires around to different gpio pins so ignore the soldering this pic, but you get the idea)
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So got my buck converter installed today and totally mutilated the hub lol. I ripped out the speaker because where my hub lives at nobody is ever in that room. In the process of reassembly I accidentally ripped the ribbon cable off of the top board. Good news is, it still works I just can’t do anything with the dip switches anymore. I’m not heart broken over this, this hub came with my house and I can’t add anymore sensors to this one because they would never reach the hub. My house is built out of straw and the straw is wrapped in chicken wire and I have a tin roof so I’ve got a really good faraday cage setup lol. But I am happy to only have 1 power adapter running to it. I also learned that I shouldn’t have soldered the header pins to my ESP mini because I can’t currently get the battery cover to fit back on there so someday I might desolder those from it. But hey its working and I’m happy 
I’m not sure if anyone checks this post anymore but I’m hoping this will help someone else thinking about it so I wanted to put in my 2c.
I’ve got a Guardline with the available outputs and a Shelly 1 and I figured the two could work together. Turns out the 12vdc output of the guardline isn’t sufficient for a Shelly so I spliced into the input power supply for the guardline to share with the Shelly.
The next step was wiring the Shelly to trigger in HA. COM from Guardline shared L or (-) on Shelly with power and NO on Guardline went to SW on Shelly 1 and voila’ it works.
In shelly app setup Shelly1 as “Activation Switch” so it reset auto off timer
In HA setup automation to alert my phone whenever shelly changes switch state and it works. I can send pictures but it looks pretty yikes right now in the “beta” stage.