hi
can anoyone suggest 230V EU power socket for zwave? The one i was suggested previously have some bug with measurements…
I am thinking about fibaro FGWPE-102 ZW5 EU (but its not listed on https://devices.zwave-js.io/) , not sure if there are better alternatives?
thanks
So which one was suggested previously?
I’m using Qubino, their are 16A rated, so easily to use with washmachine’s/dryers and other power hungry stuff. I see no issues with measurements.
hi @BebeMischa
previously these > NEO Coolcam ZWAVE PLUS EU - these have broken firmware for consumption.
did u mean > Smart Plug 16A | Control home appliances remotely with a smart plug?
Yes, I have 3 of these, works fine, even with Energy Dashoard of HA
3 for 150
I’m also using NEO Coolcam and I’m fully satisfied. They are not hot (I’m using them for Washing and Dryer machines). They have consumption measurement and etc.
@100lv these are broken in terms of power consumption … provide bad results as per measurement.
@BebeMischa whats the purpose to have one on washing machine? as washing machine cant be operated simply by powering on/off - i assume
Energy consumption monitoring and making a dumb cheap washmachine a bit smarter - notify, when done and such…
hm i see. thx ; but just thinking about practical use/notification scenario.
I have a couple needs where reliability is the most important thing - for example the sump pump and the furnace. On both of these I do want to know when they are running (e.g. current measurement), but want 0% additional risk. So I could use a zwave plug like Aoetec Smart Switch 7, but if that smart switch fails then I have water in the basement or no heat - and eventually that switch will fail.
So for these critical loads, I’ve been using current sensors. Like this one CR9521
This provides a non-invasive approach. They also make a split-core that you can snap around the wire.
Can provide more details if there is interest.
I’m using Qubino 16A ZWave plugs for such things.
You van configure them to switch on automatically after power failure or even after they are switched off by someone by accident.
Yes, I get that. However when the microprocessor or the relay or the other electronics in that Qubino fail you may be in an outage situation. It’ll last maybe 5 years at best? Whereas a physical plug going into an dumb outlet will outlive the appliance - 10-30 yr lifespan. The CT based solution works noninvasively and doesn’t decrease the reliability. Thoughts?
That said, I do use smart plugs on non critical stuff, for example my water heater. Worst outcome is no hot water very survivable. But like a sump pump, where the worst outcome is a flooded basement not survivable, I suppose another way to look at it, if the switch failure causes damage to the house - that’s where you want to be super careful.
This post started by “suggesting a ZWave plug”… 
Well, I still will trust this enough to use it. Afraid? Automate. 0 power usage for longer time - alarm message. Node not alive - alarm message. Command ON send, no direct power usage after that - alarm message.
Afraid of lifespan? Change every 5 years, even when not defect. 
@PeteRage hello,
could you elaborate a bit more on that device < CR9521 >
I have no idea how to connect it to appliance? ie washing machine? Also it seems it not a zwave?
Why the lifespan of powersockets is only 5y?
Thanks!
edit: seems you just put a cable with 230V into it?
But how do you process DC ? Or how you monitor stuff via Homeassistant
The DC output can be connected directly to an analog input connection without additional signal conditioning.
A zwave device has a processor (aka a computer) in it and a bunch of electronics. Over time these components will degrade and fail especially in the presence of power spikes and surges. 5 years is an estimate - some may go longer, some shorter. For sensing if a dryer is running that’s a fine use, as If the switch fails, you won’t be able to dry your clothes - not a big deal - as you can pull out the switch, replug in the dryer and you are good to go. I use zwave switches to run dehumidifiers, fans, etc. So for your washing machine go with a zwave plug.
Regarding the current sensor. Yes, these go around the cable. A split core one can snap over the cable, whereas a solid core one requires disconnecting a wire, running wire through and reconnecting. I have these installed on two well pumps, the furnace burner, the electrical mains - allows me to know if the well pumps are running, furnace burner is on (oil fired hot water) and the total electric usage. Snap on is essential for the mains as there no way I’m monkeying around with a 200 amp wire. The well pump and total electric CTs are installed in / near the breaker panel. The other ones I’ve been able to put in the electric junction box. These loads don’t have plugs as they are direct wired - which makes this a good solution for things without a plug or critical loads (like a sump pump) where you don’t want additional failure modes.
I plan on installing more CTs in the panel to monitor my big loads - AC, Dryer, Oven and Cooktop. I connect the CTs with thermostat wire and run it back to an Analog input that talks Modbus - Modbus - Home Assistant
Currently I have an ADAM-6017 - which has 8 Analog inputs. I’ve has this for 10 years. While it’s been reliable - I think it’s overpriced. I’m working on a new installation and trying one of these - https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/shopping/catalog/field_i-z-o/stride_i-z-o/analog_i-z-o/sio-mb08ads-2
Anyways, likely not the quickest, easiest solve. But I’m sure having fun doing it!
@PeteRage thanks.
Well but how do you measure consumption with CR’s?
Also as you mentioned you control dehumidifiers, fans with powersockets, so many devices you have to press a button on it … it wont turn on just with plug in/out of socket - which is issue (like humidifiers, etc)
thanks
The current sensor has a Amp rating, 10 amp, 30 amp, 50 amp - and outputs a 0-5v signal proportional to its rating. For example, when a 10 amp sensor outputs 1v that’s 2 amps. Create a template entity to calculate this. To get power (watts) multiply it by Voltage. I have some zwave sensors that report voltage so I use this, or use 120 or 240 based on your circuit. From there use the Integration - Riemann sum integral - Home Assistant to calculate kWh - if it’s a spikey on/off load use the “left” setting. Then attach it to a Utility Meter - Utility Meter - Home Assistant
I created daily, weekly and monthly meters. Here’s what it looks like.
Yes, you have to shop around to find devices that work with external switches. Often they are advertised as compatible with an external timer. And/or look for devices that use Tuya. There is a custom integration that does local control of Tuya devices. I use this for my heated mattress pad - works great.
