So years ago I installed a motorised projector screen. Worked well, and I did manage to sort of automate it by using a Broadlink device to send the required down/stop/up commands via RF but it wasn’t super reliable - for which I blamed the Broadlink. As it turns out, probably mistakenly.
The screen started having more and more frequent issues. It would not respond to the remote, or it would start going down, then stop part way. Turning the power off/back on sometimes fixed it, and sometimes I’d have to wait a few hours before it would start working again.
Very odd. Because it was over ten years old, I suspected a capacitor had failed. I opened the case [WARNING - this thing uses AC. The motors on many projector screens are AC. DO NOT OPEN ANY POWER SUPPLY UNLESS YOU KNOW EXACTLY WHAT YOU ARE DOING. EVEN WHEN UNPLUGGED, A CAPACITOR CAN STILL RETAIN ENOUGH CHARGE TO HURT OR EVEN KILL], and visually they looked ok but just in case I ordered some replacements - one 275V capacitor, one 25V and one 10V. I figured I couldn’t make it worse - so if that didn’t fix it then I might need to go get a new screen. Probably a bigger one. Very sad. 
Anyhow, replaced the capacitors and… the thing is now working reliably. So there you go, and will now have to wait a little longer before I upgrade the screen. What I did find though, is on opening the box, a diagram on the lid that I had not seen before:
Damn. So I did some testing and found that if you momentarily shorted between G and D the screen went up. G and U it went down. G and S it stopped. [As much as there was no voltage going to these connectors with my unit, to access them you have to open the case so AGAIN - LIVE AC POWER - DO NOT EVEN THINK ABOUT ATTEMPTING IF YOU DO NOT KNOW HOW TO DO THIS SORT OF THING SAFELY]
I had a four channel Zigbee relay module in my kit of spares, so hooked that up… and glory be, can now use zigbee to lower/stop/raise the screen.
So a very simple way to automate a projector screen, and do so reliably, if you have a similar screen. I thought I should mention this, as the controller is a pretty generic one that I’ve seen a lot of, and are still being sold out there. Usually easy to identify due to the remote although that doesn’t necessarily mean that the power supply will be the same.
FWIW The zigbee relay module is a nice all in one device that can be used to control this sort of thing, although you can always make one using the likes of an ESP and a relay board.