Q: Add smart TRVs to Hive multizone or... start from scratch? A: Deployed Eurotronic Spirit Z-Wave TRVs

Hello forum,

I set out not wanting this to be another one of those “tell me what I need to buy” posts without any additional background where the first reply is invariably “do a search for TRVs in the device forum”; so I have provided a back story. However you will be perhaps commiting 5 to 10 minutes of your valuable time if you continue to read this post, so for that I both apologise and thank you :wink:.

I’ve had Hive multi-zone (DHW+2xHeating Zones) for a couple of years and as a toe in the water it has been great. It does have some shortfalls (some of which, like the inbuilt overzealous Boost, are taken care of by the great custom Hive climate component), but other than a handfull of cloud outages and a sprinkling of hive hub external temperature wierdness (safe to say I don’t remember a summer where it was 45 celcius in the North East of England :slight_smile:), it’s been pretty solid. It does what it says on the tin.

However, and it is a big however, I have just returned 16 x so-called smart TRVs and their three associated WiFi/RF/Internet Gateways as IMHO they are simply not fit for purpose.

For those that want to know, they are a re-badged Saswell TRV and Gateway, sold in the UK under a different brand name. Possibly many. I purchased them at the beginning of October last year thinking I was going to do great things with them, but they turned out to be as much use as a raffia paper kettle, so I spoke with the CS department of the well know internet purveyor of things from which they came, and even though the return window closed at the beginning of December, they have approved the return for a full refund. From my perspective a very lucky escape!

The shortfalls of the TRVs and their gateways I have returned were:

  • Scheduling a temperature change - say from 21C to 16C at Midnight (00:00) would not work. The “workaround” was to change it to either 23:50 or 00:10. A firmware update would have resolved this I’m sure, but AFAIK, there is no OTA update facility neither for the TRVs nor their associated gateways.

  • No ability to schedule temperatures via any of the (many different) apps you can use to control the valves (just look at the available apps from the “Saswell” developer in the Apple App store and pick one - they all work with the same credentials as they all talk back to the same cloud provider api.scinan.com; verified with a wireshark trace). Instead, you have to laboriously set the schedules on the valves themselves. This is push-only to the cloud, so if you turn a valve to OFF in the app, or switch a valve to AWAY and then return it to ON or HOME at a later stage, the cloud has no idea what the temperature “was” and therefore sets it to a blistering 16C in the depths of winter. Toasty! Eventually, when the next scheduled temp change kicks in the valve, it will revert to the correct higher temperature, but what a ridiculous shortfall and oversight this is IMHO.

  • Random valve excercising, at least once per day, on the hour, sometimes in the early hours of the morning - which in the first week, resulted in my better half jumping out of bed, opening the window at 6am on a Sunday morning and shouting words to the effect of “stop that chuffing drilling at this ungodly hour!” before I had even realised what had happened - she’s a light sleeper!

  • Probably the worst failing is the random (both in terms of the time of occurence and in terms of which TRV or TRVs are affected) firmware hanging, which manifests itself as a TRV whose display shows the correct setpoint temperature (e.g. 21C, Auto), but fails to open - resulting in a cold radiator and a cold room. The “workaround” for this has been to switch the valve to off in the app, wait 60s, turn the valve to on (35C) in the app, wait 60s, turn the valve to 21C. I’ve even stuck a Sonoff TH16 inside the boiler casing which allows me to remotely switch the boiler permanent live and effectively perform a hard reset; because if enough valves are closed and there is a demand for heat from the Hive thermostat, the flow temp climbs too rapidly and the boiler enters a lockout - no sh!t Sherlock! Imagine… returning home from a few days away to 210L of tepid water in the middle of winter and two ladies who require copious baths/showers… the water was blue as was the air! It’s not a weak signal BTW as I’ve tried one valve on it’s own on a single gateway, right next to the WAP that provides the 2.4GHz WiFi. Same difference.

This last failing was the straw that broke the camel’s back - automation should be exactly that! I should not have to keep checking the bloody app all the time to make sure that a valve has not failed to open when there is a blatant demand for heat.

It does highlight a small shortcoming of the Hive on the DHW side, which is that there is no feedback from the water temperature in the DHW tank…I could fix this with another Sonoff and temp probe, but I suspect I’d need two probes and two Sonoffs to comply with regs - IIRC cylinder stats have to have dual probes on the grounds that if one fails, the other hopefully doesn’t; preventing an overheat scenario; but I’m no expert.

Sooooooooooo, I have a few choices as I see it at the moment:

  1. Buy new TRVs - I’ve been looking at the Energenie ones as they operate independently of the Hive and therefore the hubs are not mutually exclusive. They seem to get mixed reviews, but I suspect due to the complexity of installation, some of that may be down to end user error. I would be interested on views on build quality - they look plasticy. A bit of searching and I can get them for around £34 each with a hub coming in at £45

  2. Buy a system like the Tado Smart Radiator Starter Kit v3+ which would allow me to add on TRVs via the included hub. This is more expensive relatively speaking. The starter kit retails for £120 and the valves are £70 and I need 16 of them. Ouch!

  3. Throw out the Hive and go for something like the Drayton Wiser or Honeywell evohome end-to-end. This is the most expensive considering I already have three zone hive control. I daren’t do the maths - I suspect I’m well into four digits here!

The one complication I see with 3 is that both of these systems (I think) utilise a three zone hub at the location of the old programmer. In my case, the backplate next to the boiler is only wired for DHW and zone 1 heating. Zone 2 heating is provided for with an additional Hive control box, in the airing cupboard upstairs. I have an outstanding (as of an hour ago :slight_smile:) support request with Drayton on this matter, specifically asking if I can combine a 2 zone and a 1 zone into the same system to avoid the wiring from upstairs to downstairs. I’ve asked an additional question in the event that it’s possible, which is what it would look like in the app. To this end, I’m almost talking myself back into energenie TRVs.

Essentially, I want a system that allows me to:

  • control DHW on/off against a schedule. A nice to have would be feedback on current DHW temperature in the cylinder, but this is not essential.

  • control both CH zones independently. A possibility would be to ditch wall stats being the entitys that call for heat and instead use each TRV (possibly in a defined logical zone) to call for heat. Although with our monster condensing system boiler, the ability to get heat away from the boiler via the flow probably makes this a sticking point as the boiler would have the potential to enter lock-out due to insufficient flow.

  • the TRVs need to have the ability to dictate the valve excercise time - I don’t want my wife shouting out the window any more!

  • I would prefer to be able to push the temp schedule to the valves a-la-energenie method, rather than have to set everything up manually on the valves individually. An ability to copy between valves (for example: setup 1st valve in a room then copy the schedule to the other three radiators in the same room - perhaps via an app or web interface) would be good.

  • dual control (as and when I want it) of everything (including TRVs) from within HA where humanly possible. I don’t care (within financial reason) if I have to buy another hub. I already have ZigBee and Z-Wave control within Hassbian, so that doesn’t bother me unduly. The cloud vs. local argument doesn’t phase me either way. I’m more concerned with reliability at this point I think.

I am happy to settle for what I have now with some additional TRV functionality to be honest as, other than a few minor niggles, it has just worked - other than the TRVs of course.

When I did have the TRVs functioning, I had their setpoints at least a degree higher than the repsective Hive thermostat setpoint to prevent the boiler lockout situation. When it worked it worked well, but automation should for the most part be set-and-forget and that it most definitely was not with the addition of these useless TRVs!

Had I been able to integrate the TRVs into HA in some form (via api, ZigBee or z-wave), I would probably have been able to take complete control of them and prevent most of the bad stuff from happening.

Any opinions as to what I should do with/to my system at this point to bring smart TRVs back into play?

Cheers,
bikefright.

1 Like

Hi @bikefright

Sorry for the relatively short reply to your carefully written detailed post, but if you aren’t already aware and to add to the mix of options, did you know that Hive have just announced that they will release in H12019 TRVs?

I would hope that they could added to an existing Hive installation and managed by the same app, and hopefully soon after Hive Home Assistant component.

This is certainly something I have been waiting for. Will have to wait and see cost and reviews before diving in.

Thanks @rendili,

I had missed that announcement - though I had referenced Hive’s reluctance to manufacture their client bases’ most wanted item in my support request to Drayton today! Sod’s law. Feel a bit of a turncoat now :flushed:. Never mind.

I will research Hive’s upcoming offering.

ATB,
bikefright.

Had a response back from Drayton and it is as I suspected:

If I can’t extend control of the second heating zone down to the backplate near the boiler, it’s a case of buying a dual zone and a single zone.

That’s not the problem - in order to have app control, effectively I’d have to log out and switch users as each hub MAC address is locked to a single email account and as I would have two hubs, as it stands today, I would have two separate logins. Apparently the ability to have multiple hubs under control by one account is on the roadmap but not possible today. Pity.

That effectively rules out Drayton at the moment unless I can figure how to extend control of the second zone valve to the downstairs backplate. I might have a poke around in the ceiling void above the boiler :smiling_imp:.

bikefright.

I know I’m replying to my own thread again, so this is becoming a self fulfilling prophecy…but I’ve taken a punt on a wild card:

Eurotronic Spirit Thermostat, White https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B075X257NC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_nHlmCbCRJSD1P

Ordered four of them so I’ll give them a good workout and see how they perform.

I know there are some hoops to jump through (with respect to the dev branch of OpenZwave and the respective Python wrapper) but having read every article I can find - on this forum and a couple of others - I am reasonably comfortable that I should be able to do everything I want and more.

They should be here tomorrow, so I’ll reinsert an Everspring SA413 clone I have lying around on a spare RP3, build a new hassbian, then add the necessary zwave section and start tinkering.

Actually, since I last configured zwave, the docs now say do the config via the hassbian integration, so I’ll see how that goes.

bikefright

So. I’ve had fun with my new toys.

Sod’s law that the first of the four TRVs was DOA. Thank all things shiny for Amazon returns! A replacement arrived on Monday.

Probably my only problem thus far has been my OCD with respect to the Z-Wave node id numbering schema. Being a USB stick that had a previous life and because at the time something new probably arrived - :chipmunk: - I did not factory reset it, so it had a whole bunch of nodes it still knew about hanging about in the config. As I run Hassbian, there was no pre-built ozwcp, so after my twitching got the better of me, I did the necessary: built it, removed all four TRVs that were working perfectly using z-wave config within HA, cleared out the config (including references in .storage), rebooted, stopped HA, fired up ozwcp and hard reset the bloody thing! Oh joy of joys…I now have nodes 1 through 5! The twitch has vanished.

Yes there was some faff to get the necessary dev branch of open zwave integrated, but once I figured out what needed to happen, it was plain sailing. I didn’t even have to build python_openzave “—shared”

The valves (as others have commented) are exposed in an interesting way, but again, once you get your head around it, it sort of makes sense.

The long and short of it is that after an hour or two of temperature offset calibration in the four respective rooms, I’ve settled on an offset of “15” (+1.5 degrees), and everything is good in the world. The ability to adjust the offset is a welcome feature - One that Hive choose to ignore in terms of an enhancement request from the user community.

As I don’t have money to burn; once the refund clears for the 16 returned valves, I suspect I’ll be ordering another 12 Eurotronic Spirit TRVs - possibly from a much talked about European website beginning with the letter “r”.

If anything goes right or wrong in the interim, I’ll probably update my own thread :wink:. Might even change the title as I know what I’m doing for the moment!

bikefright.

Thank God for people who repeatedly update their own threads! I’m sure that I will be referring to this frequently in the next couple of weeks.

I too have a hive thermostat, but a much simpler installation. I’m looking for a first smart trv for the nursery (if it goes well, more to follow). At the moment it is either way too cold or way too hot ALL the time.

Not breaking the bank is very important (for the wife approval factor) so I was hoping to find something that I could control with api. I will probably eventually add zwave or zigbee control so that’s not a deal breaker. And if the hub is not too expensive I would be open to that too.

Have the eurotronics been working well for you since your last post or have you got any other advice?

Hello @yanniboi,

Things have moved on significantly, so apologies for not updating sooner…

I now have 16 x Eurotronic Spirit TRVs installed all functioning perfectly. One of (if not the only) the drawbacks of these TRVs is that you cannot use them without a Z-Wave controller. The first part of the installation of each valve involves including it in your Z-Wave network - without a Z-Wave network they are useless!!!

I have an Everspring SA413 USB Z-Wave clone bought off eBay brand new for £9. The setup in Hassbian is 3 lines of code, one of which is the header. Simple.

I also installed the Z-Wave graph so that I can visualise my Z-Wave network and keep a visual check if need be on battery level.

As we have three floors, I splashed out on 4 x Aeotec Z-Wave repeaters bought from Vesternet and spread them around the house, but they are only belt and braces and not really necessary. The TRVs all have a direct connection to the USB stick - they are really good on range, though that may be down to our house being of new construction (2011). The repeaters were £40 each, but there are much cheaper alternatives, like the everspring Z-Wave sockets for around £10 each new on eBay.

There is no API control. I control them directly from HA. There is also no hub other than the Raspberry Pi that runs hassbian. To control them from outside the home, I VPN in to my VPN server and use the app on my iPhone or iPad as if I were at home - again, simple!

I’ve configured the desired setpoint on each TRV, but essentially, the Hive still controls the boiler on/off and temperature schedule. I’ve made sure the TRVs in the rooms where the Hive thermostats are have a setpoint 1 degree above the Hive to prevent the Hive calling for heat if the TRVs are closed.

I’ve added some screenshots of my dashboards to give you an idea of what it looks like. Feel free to ask any questions you like :slightly_smiling_face:.

Essentially, if you went the same route you’d need a £9 usb stick (price fluctuates, was £5 when I bought mine!) and a ~£42 TRV (again, price fluctuates) - assumption being that you already have a raspberry pi with hassbian (otherwise add £52 including RPi3b+, official 2.5A PSU, case and 16GB micro SD card).

My next phase (summer) will involve putting both of the Hive thermostats back in their boxes and performing a factory reset on the Hive Zigbee receivers. At this point, I will use the Elelabs USB Zigbee stick I have to control the Hive receivers as if they are dumb on/off relays. I’ll use the measured temperature on each TRV to control the Zigbee receivers to turn the boiler on if the temperature falls below the setpoint and off if the temp rises above the setpoint.

Full disclosure: At some point in the next 3 months, I will most likely be AB testing a new home automation platform and if that proves successful, I will be progressively migrating heating and hot water control to that new platform. That will utilise my Spirit TRVs, a new RPi3, a new Z-Wave USB stick and a new Zigbee USB stick.

bikefright.

[RPi3b+](Almost Anything Ltd Raspberry Pi 3 Model B+ Official Starter Kit (White) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07CZL56WV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_EJiACbMZ23M6Y)

Z-Wave USB stick £8.99

[Eurotronic Spirit](Eurotronic Spirit Thermostat, White https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B075X257NC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_mPiACbW0QG47X)


Hello,

I have been considering to also go for those Eurotronic (or Devolo, they are cheaper right now) TRV’s for my radiators and have been wondering how difficult it would be to connect the TRV’s to your Hass.io Z-Wave controller and to use them with Hass.io and Node-RED.

Am I correct in assuming that the basic configuration steps would be the following?

  1. Configuring a Z-Wave network (I’ve been thinking of buying an Aeotech stick)

  2. Connecting the TRV’s one by one to the Z-Wave network

  3. Using Hass.io to have changing modes/temps on the TRV’s and read sensor information and use Node-RED to automate

I too have gone through the purchase, install, angry partner, return for refund cycle several times in my search for a reliable TRV solution for my oil-fired central heating.
I ended up using EQ-3 HomematicIP devices which have ticked almost every box for me. They are silent, reliable and the heating schedule is downloaded to each TRV and thermostat so they will keep working if the controller or internet is down.
I installed the system last summer and it survived the heating season without missing a beat.
The downside is that it’s a German system so the user forums are mostly in German, but Google Translate has bypassed this issue for me.

@zigt1301 Yes you are spot on regarding bringing Z-wave TRVs under HA control. I have been up and running for quite some time and other than a “minor incident” when I accidentally destroyed the hassbian boot partition - which I had moved to a 120GB SSD - by flashing it with Tasmota! (didn’t check the serial device in the top right corner of ESPhome, Doh!!!) my system has been running flawlessly.

I find the fidelity good - the room temp tracks the setpoint well without huge overshoots and they are all still running on the batteries that came with them - lowest battery level is 45%. I also find them to be quiet - though that is subjective as we all have a different tolerance to noise.

Feel free to ask any pertinent questions - I am obviously now biased towards the Eutotronic Z-wave devices though :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:.

hi am considering bying the hive TRv valves,does anyone know what TRV valves they will fit ie make and model, as hive do not, and i need to order 6 new TRV valves and then 6 hive TRV valves to fit

i have them working on RSA-C2 TRV from Danfoss

Hi - I am interested to hear whether you did this in the end? I’m interested to hear whether I could get rid of my spying Hive Hub and just control my boiler with a Zigbee stick

Hi,
Thanks for a well document thread :+1:

I’m an automation newbie and I’m looking into “smarting” our heating system which similar to yours: 2 zones (ground floor, 1st floor) and hot water tank. Currently we control it using a Horstmann H37XL 3 channel programmer and 2 dumb thermostats. Is working relatively well for us, we have 3 schedules in the programmer for each zone and adjust the heating from the thermostats if necessary.

My problem is the hot water tank. We have the central heating coming on half an hour in the morning and half an hour in the evening to heat up water in the tank. This works well on most days but not always ideal. Example, last night I got home late from work and I jumped in the shower, half way
through it the water got cold, I didn’t knew that both kids had a bath earlier :roll_eyes: I was thinking on buying a Sonoff TH16 with 2 temp sensors to keep an eye on it. Do you currently monitor your hot water tank? If not how are you maintaining the water temp in the tank, is it just using the thermostat attached to the tank?

On the heating subject, if you were to start again what sort of controller will you choose to control the 3 zones? Would I see any gains of just using TRV’s with the existing setup? To mention that I do have a Z-wave stick.

Looking forward to your reply.

Thanks,
Julian

Sorry @PianSom for not replying sooner - I am about to reply to a question below yours just now and have (for whatever reason) just seen your question.

TL;DR: Not done it yet, but will be doing it early next year :+1:

I have been off on a bunch of tangents since my last update:

  1. I’ve ventured into Zigbee in a big way with the Ikea Tradfri kit - as a means to an end really (I wanted to create a large reliable [read:stable] Zigbee mesh before deploying a bunch of Xiaomi door/movement sensors). I’ve deployed both repeaters and sockets, four of each.

  1. I’ve deployed 9 x IP cameras (dericam) and have been experimenting with them!

  2. I’ve (within the past month) deployed a bunch of Xiaomi sensors (door/motion/movement/temperature/switch)

  3. I’ve moved all of my Sonoff devices (S20s, basics, TH16s) to tasmota and deployed TasmoAdmin in a docker container under portainer (no dependency on HA).

  1. I’ve migrated the remainder of my automations to node-red running in docker (no dependency n HA other than for data). I’ve also setup HomeKit in node-red to allow boosting of heating in various rooms using the Hive, the TRVs and the iOS Eve app - so now my family can boost the heating via their phones without having to have access to my core home automation - like an “idiot” firewall😂.

  1. I’ve deployed a single node (rPi) instance of Andrew Freyer’s Bluetooth Monitor https://github.com/andrewjfreyer/monitor, purchased a bunch of Tile beacons and bottomed out reliable presence detection. It works a treat now!

  2. I’ll leave my seventh tangent for my reply to Julian’s question below :wink:

1 and 3 are pre-cursors to moving away from Hive cloud altogether - I have been testing the Xiaomi Aqara battery powered temperature sensors to establish if they are a valid choice for room temp sensing in place of the hive thermostats. So far so good!

Wifey would not be happy over Xmas if I took out the heating :joy:, so it will be on the back burner until early in the new year.

2 Likes

So, Julian…my last tangent has been to investigate exactly what you elude to: how do I know if the water temperature in the domestic hot water tank (DHW tank) has dropped and needs heating?

To this end, I’ve done a number of things:

I’ve deployed a Sonoff TH16 with a waterproof temperature probe in parallel with the existing DHW thermostat that I also upgraded (not so long ago) from a basic on/off danfoss relay with a not-very-helpful temperature setpoint dial on the side! It was one of these that I replaced the danfoss stat with from Amazon:

New Digital Cylinder Stat

It needs a permanent live, but otherwise operates like a traditional stat in that it switches a separate switched live (in my case from the hive receiver) input.

This new stat is not internet connected, but does allow the setting of the temperature in a digital and granular way.

I have deployed a separate Sonoff TH16 with a waterproof temperature probe which sits inside the same “tube” that the above DHW stat probes sit in. This is flashed with Tasmota and allows me to see a number of things:

  1. I can tell when the temperature drops in the DHW cylinder (e.g. someone takes a shower)

  2. I can tell when the boiler is heating the water in the DHW cylinder

  3. I can take actions based on the above.

This is what I see in my HA dashboard:

The only downside of a TH16 is that you CANNOT in it’s factory state use it as a direct replacement for your DHW cylinder stat because it switches the permanent live through the output via the relay. Ask if you need more detail.

With this config, I can use the Hive to schedule the on/off of the DHW; I can tell in node-red and HA when the DHW temp drops (and take actions, like boosting the DHW if the schedule in Hive is set to “off”) and I can plot the rise and fall in DHW temp on a pretty graph :rofl:. This is useful (like in your example) where someone has taken a long shower late at night, when the Hive schedule for DHW is off, thereby reducing the water temp significantly over night…only for someone to get up early in the morning and have a tepid shower because the hive DHW has not kicked in yet!

In my case, I have a node-red automation that checks when the DHW temp falls below 50c and boosts the Hive DHW for 30mins if the hive schedule is currently off.

2 Likes

Thanks @bikefright for the very full response. I look forward to hearing how you get on with messing around with the heating in January!! :slight_smile:

My own path is similar, though behind, yours. I have a zigbee net, no Traadfi but a few Xiaomi bitsBut a zigbee2mqtt instance to put everything in to a common platform. All my sonoffs (20?) run tasmota and so are already on mqtt.

Really I am only using HA for
1 Zwave devices
2 Appdaemon for managing regular on/off’s, linking devices and simulating occupancy
3 Hive

(No IP cameras for me as yet, though I do have an extensive UniFi network ready for them if I want some. I also use unifi2mqtt - as well as monitor on a few Pi Zeros - for presence.)

My plan (when I get around to it) is to move to zwave2mqtt for 1, and node-red for 2. There are a few other bits (Sonos, for example) which I’ve never bothered fully integrating (just a couple of warning beeps which can probably be dome with node-red). But I really want to move away from the Hive hub and on to a more independent platform. I’m planning on using Sonoffs rather than Aqaras for temperature monitoring - mains not battery.

Thank you @bikefright for the quick and comprehensive reply.
Understand what you are saying about the TH16, I was thinking to hack the board and try to use the relay outputs to replace existing thermostat. But first, I would like to install it and monitor the water temp for a while to get a better understanding.
Now I have a few more questions :slight_smile:
How did you attach the temp sensors to the tank and how high/low are they placed?
What sort of schedules do you run on the Hive thermostat for DHW tank?
How good are the TRV’s if the doors to the room are left opened most times? (we have an air tight house with extractors in bathrooms and kitchen. We were told to try and leave the doors opened when possible ). Also the Eurotronics TRV’s are currently €33.95 on amazon.de :smiley:
If you are moving away from Hive thermostat and controllers are you leaving the zone valves opened all the time and adjust flow via the TRV’s?

Thanks again,
Julian

Hey there @yulasinio, hopefully some answers to your questions:

I have a stainless steel pressurised indirect DHW cylinder (from memory 210L) which already has an in-set tube approximately 1/3 of the way up from the bottom. Imagine someone has taken a 25mm s/s test tube, drilled a 25mm hole in the side of the cylinder and brazed/welded that test tube into the hole so that around 20mm is proud of the outside surface of the cylinder. The rim of the test tube is swaged out (a bit like the end of a trumpet!), which allowed the original DHW stat to fit over the end of it and was prevented from falling off the end by one or more tiny screws, which sit behind the swaged rim of the tube - if that makes sense. The new digital thermostat uses the same attachment method.

The only modification I have made to the new digital stat (which I linked to) is to drill a small hole on the bottom front left edge of the white casing to allow the TH16 sensor to be inserted through the body of the stat and out through the hole in the back (which is obviously over the test tube/hole) along with the two sensor probes that are part of the digital stat. All three probes sit inside that tube.

In terms of DHW control, the Hive Heating control is very arbitrary: The heating zone is either ON, SCHEDULED or OFF. Obviously there is no temperature control other than that provided by the cylinder stat, so at the moment, my Hive DHW zone is running a schedule like this:

Mon-Thu ON at 7am, OFF at 11pm
Fri ON at 7am, OFF at midnight
Sat ON at 8am, OFF at midnight
Sun ON at 8am, OFF at 11pm

I should mention: I work from home!

This schedule has been untouched for two years and works for us.

Regarding the TRVs, I must say they just work! They have been one of my best investments to date and have caused no problems whatsoever in the time I’ve had them. I have different temperatures set throughout the house (for example, I don’t want the porch or utility room to be as warm as the living areas and I want the bedrooms cooler than living areas). The one caveat at the moment is that because the setpoint on each TRV is NOT what is creating the demand for heat (and firing the boiler) - in fact it is the Hive thermostats that create the demand for heat with their set points - I have set the TRV setpoints one or two degrees above the max temperature in any of the Hive schedules; this is to prevent the Hive calling for heat when all the TRVs are closed off, which would not be good for the boiler! This is what is driving me to abandon the Hive as it stands today - I want to be able to dictate to the Hive Zigbee receivers and use the Hive thermostats as pretty room stats :rofl:.

It doesn’t matter if we have doors opened or closed, the TRVs in a room with a closed door prevent the temp from soaring if there is demand for heat elsewhere in the house. I suspect the heat throughout the house is a little more even if all the doors are left open, but perhaps the thinking behind the “doors open” philosophy stems from not being able to measure the temperature behind each closed door…which is now moot because each room has at least one TRV with a temp sensor and a setpoint.

If I had my time again I would not have fallen in love with the solid, beautiful (IMHO) Hive thermostats and instead would have gone for the cheapo plasticy-looking Danfoss RXZ stuff. I would probably have bought 2 x 2 channel receivers and not connected the second channel on one of them, giving me two heating channels and one DHW channel (plus one spare).

The plan if I modify the Hive control is to use each hive zigbee receiver as a dumb receiver (therefore maintaining control over the zone valves and boiler/pump etc as is), which is dictated to either by the setpoint/temp sensor in each TRV, or by the Xiaomi temperature sensors I would deploy in each room.

If I get rid of hive, I would go the Danfoss RXZ route I outlined above and again, use the TRVs or Xiaomi temp sensors to drive the heating.

Thinking about it, Xiaomi sensors and Spirit TRV temp sensors are not mutually exclusive, so I could even use a combination of both to drive the heating zones.