But be sure to check compatibility with your opener. It is best suited for the older style opener with a simple doorbell or single button type push-button. If your garage push button has a motion detector or things like that it probably won’t work directly but there are some work-arounds with a spare remote and a little solder.
Thank you. My garage opener was installed in 2007 and is 2 wire so I think I am ok.
1 ? before I order: Does HA read the tilt sensor ok? I mean does it know if door is open or closed? I want to do a script that will close the door if left open after 11pm/etc.
I have no problems with the status, my controller is connected to my Wink Hub 2, (hopefully I’ll be getting away from that soon and moving to a Z-Wave stick) but the only time the I have ever had issues is when the tilt sensor battery is dead or very low.
Well already ordered :(, but thanks for the heads up. It had good reviews on HD.
From the link you sent, it looks like a single led makes the whole thing go bad.
Someone said it was made by Iris. One of their “factories” was just a few miles down the street from me, but I think they went belly up. I wonder if this company is still in business?
I will give it a try since it already shipped, but thanks for the heads up.
Zwave or wifi relay to control open/close switching. If needed, this may be wired direct to existing rf controls
Camera. I don’t like indoor cams but in case of a controlled entrance it is always good to see entry and exit. Also allows you to confirm why door not closing when your dog runs in path of sensor as your trying to close it and allows you to feel secure that’s is not an unwanted human
I prefer Zwave because it is a non-route-able network (unless I want otherwise). No one can directly control it unless I make it route-able on the internet.
I am with fletch101e on this one, I need to see if I can get my Linear going again and that’s the reason I purchased a Z-Wave opener, I wouldn’t trust anything WiFi controlling an entry point to my house.
Couldn’t you give it a non-routable IP? It requires WiFi for access to your network, it doesn’t require internet to work. You can also put it on it’s own SSID if you prefer to keep it away from the rest of your network.
I also recommend the go-control. Works fine with HA. Nothing special needs to be done to get it to work. About a year or so ago it did require a custom branch of OpenZwave, but Home Assistant now uses a forked version of OWZ that includes the needed files.