Can you give some more info on this? What opener did you have - Security +1 vs 2? What kind of MQTT commands? I know that the door buttons at my house simply put different value capacitors across the two wires for the lock and light buttons, and I could duplicate that if I had to, but if at all possible, I would like to just be able to do it directly.
The problem is the communication beween the opener and the gateway is secure and proprietary, so you are unable to acess it or control it.
You need the ratgdo, use the specs linked to make your own, or one of the other suggested alternate methods. I’m using the ratgdo.
My Homebridge hasn’t connected to the internet since the day I set it up, so I could care less if I loose access to the cloud. My concern was with the removal of the MyQ integration.
I’m hoping since I’m using HomeKit i’m not affected and this is only for the cloud connection.
I’ll get RatGDOs at some point but so far homebridge has been okay and was easy to setup.
Will the ratgo device also handle the video feed from the opener?
Will tge ratgo also allow you access to video feed from garage door opener
No, unfortunately ratgdo doesnt support video.
I’m unaware of any way to get video outside of myqs apps for their video products- their system by design does not play well with other options. They want you to have to buy their video subscription and not be able to use the camera with anything else.
I would recommend installing a generic ip camera nearby that uses a universal protocol like mjpeg or onvif that will easily integrate with home assistant
I have a foscam g2 on my garage but see this post for some other camera suggestions
I ended up using the Konnected garage door control. I also purchased a Security 2.0 compatible button from Amazon for $11. Toss in a little soldering and I have a complete, local control solution to replace the crappy MyQ. The Konnected box has a door open sensor that measures the distance from the ceiling so it can tell when the door is open. It’s not as well instrumented as MyQ was but it works.
It’s also running esphome so you can customize it if you want. Highly recommended
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It won’t. But you are much better off getting an IP camera with standard protocols like ONVIF. I’ve had several Amcrest and can’t complain about them.
And when it comes to IP camera, outside of the typical options of a dedicated camera in the garage, there is also the option of installing IP Webcam Pro onto almost all unused Android phone, if you have any in your junk drawer.
Over the years I have gathered 3 old Android phones from my family. So I paid for the Pro version of the app, which would turn all my unused Android phones as regular IP cams.
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The problem is the communication beween the opener and the gateway is secure and proprietary, so you are unable to acess it or control it.
Yeah, I know that I need something else, and I’m planning on removing the MyQ gateway, since the company seems insistent on basically making it useless to me.
So I’m thinking I’ll go with a ratgdo also, but I’m trying to figure out what the likelihood is of success in getting the lockout to work on the remotes, since I have the v1, and the docs say it doesn’t work, but you seemed to say that you got it to. So I’m trying to mainly get more info on what you did before moving ahead with this. I want to do my homework, and if I need to build a custom board to support the “Lock” feature then I will do that.
Thanks!
Oh I was mixing up which post you replied to. Initially with the MQTT firmware of the ratgdo I had to create a template device to create the lock entity. My yaml for it is below:
mqtt:
lock:
- name: Garage Control Lockout
state_topic: "garagedoorGarageDoor/status/lock"
command_topic: "garagedoorGarageDoor/command/lock"
payload_lock: "lock"
payload_unlock: "unlock"
state_locked: "locked"
state_unlocked: "unlocked"
optimistic: false
qos: 1
retain: false
I’ve since switched to the ESPHome firmware for the ratgdo and I like it a lot more - there are more options and the lockout function is automatically exposed to home assistant with no extra yaml. I do have security 2.0 though - I doubt it will expose the lockout with the v1 version and you’d likely need extra hardware. Where is your lockout button on the v1?
This is everything showing with the ESP firmware for the ratgdo:
This is what the ratgdo’s webpage looks like using esphome
Well when MyQ first came out they were touting how much liability there was about closing a door remotely without all of the lights flashing and beeping. There is no local API, and the solution to be able to use MyQ locally is to use a solution that doesn’t activate the lights and beeping. I wonder since they have decided to block people from using that functionality, they have some legal exposure. I’m not a fan of legal bullying, but it seems like they have removed from 0.2% of their users the access to they safety system, that they tout properly remotely notifies someone that the door is about to close. Where ever this goes, a local integration is what most people would prefer, with real time status.
All I want is for everyone to keep keep blasting them with 1-stars on every site you can.
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Just to clarify and add more details on my setup. I’m not getting rid of the MyQ box nor the MyQ phone app. I think the ratgdo project is awesome, but as far as I know I still need the MyQ box to keep Amazon in-garage deliveries working. I have a yellow button Chamberlain garage door opener which means I have the Security+ 2.0. That came with the multi-function door wall control that does the door, light, locks and learn function over just the two wires. But that doesn’t give me a dry contact. So I spent $30 and bought the modified 883LM that does the light, door and gives me a dry contact 2 wire connection. I could have spent $10 and done some soldering but I didn’t feel like it. Then I ran a low voltage 2 wire from the door opener to the other side of my garage where the walkthrough from outside is and put the wall mount door opener there. From there I ran 2 wire up to a spot where I could mount a KR0548-1CH eWeLink/Sonoff switch that I bought on Amazon for $10. I’m powering the board with a 5V usb that I’m powering from an always outlet on a light socket. Then the dry contact from the modified 883LM is going to the Normally Open (NO) and Common (COM) on the relay module.
In the eWeLink app I configured the device to act as a switch, enabled LAN control, and turned on the inching settings set to 0.5sec. This gives me a chance to toggle the switch just log enough to make the contact to act as if the button was pushed.
Then without changing any firmware I was able to add the eWeLink Smart Home device to my Home Assistant server using the add-on in HACS as well as the SonoffLAN custom component to allow it to work even without the cloud.
As an added bonus I was able to get the eWeLink added to Alexa and I used the Home Assistant Home Bridge to add it to Apple Home. I have a camera in my garage that is next to the button I added to my dashboard and my phone still has the MyQ app to doublecheck the status of the door. In Alexa I created an automation that says push garage door button rather than garage open or closed since the inching just makes the contact and then goes back to open.
What about having the MyQ android app running on some kind of Android VM and using that to open/close? Is something like that possible?
There’s some way that the Myq doors can be closed without the beeping and flashing- Whenever I got an Amazon Key delivery the door would close silently.
The ul325 standard actually requires the beeping and flashing. Here are the requirements- they’re pretty specific about the flashing frequency, light intensity, etc for "unattended operation ".
Maybe Amazon Key gets out of this because the door closes with the delivery person present, so it is “attended” at that point.
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Reading the FCC filing of the MyQ door sensor I determined that it uses 312.507Mhz. There is a white paper on jamming and capturing the signal to hack the MyQ system. While software defined radios get a bad rap as a hacker tool, I run rtl_433 on my Home Assistant for many practical reasons for monitoring. I was hoping I could tune it to 312.5M and see if I could at least pick up the door state from mqtt. Doesn’t look like I can do it so instead I’m going to use a Sonoff DW2 sensor on the door and couple that with automation with the eWeLink 1CH connected to the dry contact button as well as my camera motion taking a snapshot to create an automation. I created a cover template and that is displaying in Apple Carplay now.
Good riddance. Chamberlain’s devices were actually one of the reasons I dumped HomeKit for Home Assistant: because I had an older Chamberlain garage door, I had to buy from them two devices–a Chamberlain hub and a MyQ gateway (I may be forgetting what they called them). The combination never worked reliably. Their customer support was friendly and polite, but badly misinformed about their own hardware. I spent hours and hours on call after call following bad advice, only to end up with a partially-working solution as before. (I was new to home automation at the time, but I do remember them telling me–and me, like an idiot following–the suggestion that I had to leave the 5Ghz channel on my entire WiFi network always disabled!!) When I switched over to Home Assistant, it was a little better. But ultimately, I asked myself: why am I going through this much pain–and this many piles of devices translating for devices translating for devices–when all it needs is an ESP8266 and a switch that briefly shorts the two wires on the garage wall? I built my own and have never been happier. Sorry to vent, but I truly agree that what Chamberlain is doing is abusive of its customers and they deserve to lose them.
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