Yes, that’s exactly what I did, I re-used the MHCOZY because I already had one here. Any ESP board with a relay would suffice, no RF needed because I’m now using the RF from the Reolink chime. When the Reolink chime is activated, the Blue LED will blink 10 times or so, and so it’s necessary to have some kind of circuit or logic to make the relay click only once: the ESP is very good for that.
I used the signals on that 3-wire cable between the two boards in the Reolink chime.
White is a signal that stays at about 3.3 volts at idle, and bounces down to about 1 volt when the Blue LED on the chime flashes. Black is ground, and Red is 5V.
Between this white wire and the ESP board I inserted a small circuit:
I had to experiment to get this to work, I haven’t done this sort of stuff in years. I used a 2N3906 because that’s what I had lying around.
I connected the output from my circuit to GPIO5. You could use any GPIO input you need to, but I went for one that didn’t look like it was used. I soldered directly to the ESP chip pins. The 3V3 signal also comes directly from the ESP pins. I just re-used the wires I had attached to put the ESP into flashing mode.
The template I used in Tasmoto removes GPIO0/button1, and inserts GPIO5 as switch1.
Much as I tried I could not get it to work using button, Tasmoto kept resetting itself and I would have to recover it each time. I had to use switch, and I had to use switchmode 1.
I then used these console commands to configure Tasmoto in a way very similar to what you originally had.
so114 1
pulsetime 5
switchmode 1
rule1 on switch1#state do event chime endon
rule2 on event#chime do backlog rule1 0; power1 1; ruletimer1 15 endon on rules#timer=1 do rule1 1 endon
rule1 1
rule2 1
I believe that it is possible to power the MHCOZY and the additional circuit from the red wire in the Reolink chime 3-wire cable. The MHCOZY will work with 5V coming in on its USB connector: I traced this to a good spot on the bottom of the board and injected 5V there. You still need to get 3V3 from the ESP on the MHCOZY board to use in the interface circuit: feeding 5V into the transistor would probably result in sending 5V into the GPIO input and damage the ESP.
This setup is now working, for one button press on the doorbell camera I get one relay click on the MHCOZY. From the doorbell camera management page you can turn off the sound on the Reolink chime, but leave the Blue LED enabled, and the MHCOZY then works to trip the old chime.
Franco