What is the cause of the 3 second delay? Is it the fact that the RF signal is ~ 3 seconds in length and thus waits for the entire signal to be received before triggering the relay?
If so, would it be possible to instead only listen for the first say 0.5 seconds of this signal then trigger the relay?
I don’t know for certain, but if I had to guess this module’s specific delay is from the RF controller waiting before sending a response to the ESP chip. I only suggest this possibility, because I’ve had other smart RF modules that responded nearly instantly after pressing the doorbell button. Unfortunately, those modules were also non-ESP based (i.e. cloud based and FAR more difficult to cleanly automate). I’m certain the module I listed in post 6 can accept an ESP-12F donor board due to its pinout, but haven’t tried it myself. Though I’ve swapped many a WB/CB based modules in the past, I felt the ~3 second delay was acceptable here… heck I replaced a Ring Pro doorbell with this setup, and that had a nearly 4 second delay making this unit an actual improvement. If this is something you or anyone else decides to try; however, do please share your results here!
Thanks for the reply. I’m thinking rather than trying a non-ESP based module (as swapping modules is outside my wheelhouse) of trying something like this. Any thoughts?
I notice others have been able to load Tasmota on a similar board as per here. My personal goal would be to assess whether the delay with this board is shorter. The other side benefit, would be the potential ability to have an off the shelf board that works with two doorbell signals - given the two channels (assuming the 2 channels are necessary in the first place for multiple doorbells - may not be).
It appears to be the same ESP chipset, thus same concept. The 2 doorbell question has been asked before, but I don’t know if anyone ever tried storing 2 different RF codes into the MHCOZY unit I posted about. If you’re using 2 different bells, then of course a 2 channel module like you posted is what I’d try using. I would (cautiously) assume that a 2 channel board with 2 separate RF pairing buttons would store 2 separate RF codes… but I’ve seen weirder and more pointless contraptions come out of China! 
So I ordered the AliExpress alternative 2 (DC5-32V 433MHZ case) listed above and received this. The instructions worked well up until step 5, but the template will not save for this device. Any idea how would I go about getting a correct template?
Could you share your configuration template? I think I may have the same device as you.
Cheers
Hmm, that’s odd. The configuration should save even if it’s wrong for the device in question. I don’t know your Tasmota experience level (so forgive me if this is a total duh for you), but are you making sure you’re checking the “Activate” checkbox located under where you paste the configuration string PRIOR to clicking the “Save” box at the bottom? If you are and it’s still not saving, try going into the console and entering a reset 6 command, and then try again after if restarts. If that still doesn’t work, try fully removing power from the device for a minute or two. I’ve seen the later fix many a glitchy Tasmota device.
If by chance you mean the configuration is saving, but simply not working, you could try changing the button and/or the relay GPIOs under the Configure Template menu… good chance the manufacture of your specific board just connected those to different chip points (especially for the relay GPIO). Beyond that, I’m unfortunately at a loss to your specific problem. 
If I interpreted his post right, he simply inverted the positions by changing the 0s to 1s. I would assume his template looks like this:
{“NAME”:“MHCOZY RF 1CH”,“GPIO”:[32,1,1,1,1,1,1,1,224,320,1,1,1,1],“FLAG”:0,“BASE”:18}
Thanks for the help, the reset did the trick - works great now.
Anyone have any issues with distances of the sending the 433Mhz signal. I take the relay and get it to pair. I hear and watch the relay click, I configure the doorbell tasmota settings. I power off and power on the relay to make sure all settings stick and the relay still clicks. I wire it up to the doorbell and the camera work, relay is on, I am able to trigger the relay via MQTT which turned the chime on. But the button press of the doorbell does not want to trigger the relay. The chime is about 8 feet away.(Note i had a Nest doorbell in prior and had no issues as i assume it had some type of wireless signal)
So I might have figured out at what point it stops the physical chime. It seems after I program through the console the following it stops. If I don’t do these steps the chime works fine and I can control via the web console. Do I need to do anything further? Thanks!
so73 1
pulsetime 3
Those commands are used to create a single, clean, and normal chime. SO73 1 detaches the relay from the button (keeps the RF module from directly triggering the relay), and pulsetime 3 sets how long the relay is closed when commanded to. The latter simulates how long a normal doorbell button is pushed in by people, which in turn affects the delay amount between traditional chimes’ ding-dong sound. The number represents 100ms, so you may set this pulsetime to whatever sounds best for you (I’m currently using “2” for a 200ms delay myself).
Without these settings in place you’ll likely get an occasional double chime, or perhaps even worse. If you’re not using a traditional mechanical chime, you don’t necessarily need to use pulsetime, and in fact that might be causing your issue. You can turn it off by entering pulsetime 0 in the console.
@Technowizard Thank you for the great manual! it works flawless, although the 3d print didn’t work to program the PSF-B01, carefull soldering was the solution for this time 
I have a question;
Is it possible to add a switch to turn off the relay? Than you can switch off the doorbell if someone is sleeping and you do not want to wake him/her?
greetings, Richard
Yeah never used it myself, so sorry it didn’t work for you. I doubt the board changed, so maybe the print was off or something…
Yeah it depends on what your smart home setup is like, or what you’re willing to do. A few ideas off the top of my head…
Hope those ideas help.
Eventually I ended up with the following solution:
rule2 on event#chime do backlog rule1 0; power1 %Var1%; ruletimer1 10 endon on rules#timer=1 do rule1 1 endon
Creating a Boolean Switch in Home Assistant (“input_boolean.deurbel_geluid”)
Creating a Home Assistant automation:
- id: '99000000000010'
alias: deurbel aan uit test
description: ""
variables:
my_deurbel: Voordeur_bel
trigger:
- platform: state
entity_id: input_boolean.deurbel_geluid
id: "trigger"
- platform: state
entity_id: switch.voordeur_bel
from: "unavailable"
id: "trigger"
action:
- choose:
- conditions:
- condition: trigger
id: "trigger"
sequence:
- service: mqtt.publish
data:
qos: 0
retain: true
topic: "cmnd/{{my_deurbel}}/Var1"
payload_template: >
{% if is_state('input_boolean.deurbel_geluid', 'on') %}
1
{% else %}
0
{% endif %}
mode: single
initial_state: 'on'
This way it uses a variable to determine of the relay has to become active or not.
The automation sends the variable “Var1” to tasmota based on the input_boolean’s state on/off and if the MHCOZY reboots, the state in home assistant will become “unavailable” for a moment, the automation will trigger when it becomes online again, and sends the current state of the input_boolean again, to prevent rule 1 to have an empty power trigger.
I did use the 3d printed jig for the PSF-B01 and it worked but not without similar frustrations at first. First two attempts failed on an FDM printer (the holes for the pins weren’t precise enough or well enough defined). I instead used a polyjet high resolution resin 3d printer and that did the trick.
Hi @Technowizard
New user here, I popped in to recount my experience with the Reolink doorbell + MHCOZY module.
I have the Reolink PoE doorbell + chime, and the included chime from Reolink works correctly. I bought the same MHCOZY module that you appear to have (7-32 volt, has a PSF-B01, one button only).
I got the programming of Tasmota completed without problems, but I am having a lot of trouble getting the MHCOZY to pair with 433 mhz RF signals.
The MHCOZY came with a 4 button remote control, but with no battery for the remote. I got the remote working using a lab power supply, and the remote seems to work with a range of voltages from about 4 to 12 volts. A little google search shows that the correct battery may be an A23 battery, 12 volts.
Using the included remote, I was able to get the MHCOZY to pair with it’s included remote, but it is very inconsistent. Sometimes it will, sometimes it won’t. I have had absolutely no luck getting the MHCOZY to pair with the Reolink’s 433 mhz signal.
I also cannot figure out if the 4 buttons on the included remote send out 4 different signals, or if they’re all the same. Sometimes after I think I’ve paired one of the buttons, all 4 work.
I’m listing my questions here, but I understand if you don’t necessarily have any good answers.
My questions:
Again, my MHCOZY from Amazon looks just like yours, with some minor changes to the print on the outer cover:
It’s also possible I just got a dud.
Thanks for any light you can shed on this.
Franco
Press and hold the MHCOZY button until the blue LED comes on and then release it. Once the blue LED is on, immediately press the doorbell button (or remote if that’s what you’re trying to pair with it). FYI the Reolink doorbell (or again the remote if using that) should be right next to the MHCOZY, and not installed in it’s final location just yet. I had to reprogram mine once when I was first setting it up and writing this guide, and I found that even though it was only 10 feet away it would not pair the 433MHz signal from the Reolink properly.
I don’t recall it doing this, but it might have and/or shouldn’t make a difference IIRC. If your device is acting weird, you can try doing the reset 6 and power cycling I mention a few posts above. You have to put the template, rules, etc. back in, but this can help fix a lot of Tasmota glitch issues.
Sorry, I don’t remember… you’re going to have to reference whatever manual came with your device. The RF module is unaffected by loading Tasmota, so whatever the manual says for that should still go.
Again sorry, I never tried using the included remote (just didn’t have a need).
If you were able to flash Tasmota on it (which said you did), then that was the important part. Honestly I doubt you got a dud… just try the tips I mentioned (especially the reset and power cycling), and see if that helps.
What version of the Reolink doorbell do you have?
My PoE version says:
Hardware: V2
Version: U
I dug out my old amateur radio and started monitoring the 433mhz band while pushing buttons on the bundled remote and the Reolink.
When pushing buttons on the bundled remote, I can definitely hear things being transmitted on 433.92 mhz or nearby. A burst of FM signal at a fairly high amplitude, and nearby frequencies go quiet. If I listen in wideband FM mode, I can hear the burst of noise all over the 433 mhz band.
When pushing buttons on the Reolink, I can’t hear this burst of signal at any frequency, in AM, FM, or wideband FM mode. I can see the Reolink chime light up, so I know the signal must have been generated.
At this point, I can only infer that the Reolink is either putting out too weak a signal, or a different kind of signal, or it is slightly outside the frequency band that the MHCOZY can hear.
I’ve got a different MHCOZY arriving tomorrow, along with batteries for the remote, so I’ll try with the other unit, but it’s not looking so good right now.
Which is why I’m asking about the Reolink version number, and I’m wondering if Reolink has changed something.
Franco
I just bought a Reolink WiFi doorbell and I am having the same problem.
The doorbell also says Hardware: V2 and Version: U. The chime says Hardware: V2 as well.
I opened up the chime and it is very different looking to other pictures of the Reolink chime. It seems to use a CC1311R3 chip. It supports a variety of protocols, but I’m not sure which one Reolink might be using.
It’s very frustrating that they would silently redesign their doorbell and chime, but still not allow a user to keep their existing chime.
Their website also says that the doorbell chime uses 433 MHz, which is obviously not true anymore. Introduction to RF433
My next attempt will be to use the Reolink chime to drive a relay.
See that 3 wire cable in the chime picture? Black is ground, red is +5V, and the white wire changes voltage when the blue LED on the chime flashes.
I’m going to get some matching connectors and build a harness to bring those wires out of the chime and try to use it with some additional circuitry to drive a small 5V relay.
