Reolink Video Doorbell with Standard Electro/Mechanical Chime Guide

not yet but very interested by the results

I purchased yesterday from AliExpress, so it might be a cpl weeks before I report back. I’ll update if it works or not.

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I havent had time to play with it yet, but I did receive it. Doesnt seem like theres an easy way using esphome. There is a lib using the nrf905 but specifically fort some sort of fan controller. When I have more time I’ll try and play with esphome and nrf905.

For now, its Arduino IDE and nrf905 lib. I will update when I start playing with it.

Another alternative to the MHCOZY device that doesn’t require any re-flashing to work as a 7-32V relay is this zigbee option on aliexpress. I can confirm that the 7-32V version runs just fine on my 16V 30VA doorbell transformer. The default mode for the NO relay is even a very-doorbell-like momentary switch with what seems like about a half-second on period. This means I didn’t even have to program any on-off delay logic to mimic a typical doorbell press. I have the V2 chime, so I could not verify whether the supposedly included 433mhz receiver works. Nothing related to the 433mhz radio is exposed in HA so presumably one would have to use the Tuya app to access those, if they’re available at all. In any case, thanks to @Technowizard for this thread and the very helpful wiring diagram so that I can use my existing chime with the Reolink doorbell.

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How does the zigbee module get the trigger from the doorbell? Is it through the reolink Hass add-on?

I have a temp solution setup using an esp32 and a 5v relay to control the doorbell chime after being triggered by the reolink add-on visitor sensor. There is a substantial delay though.

I haven’t had time to try and make something work using 915 MHz transceiver. I’m assuming there is some sort of pairing process, which probably means some sort of keys and possible key rolling.

I have been thinking of using what another user posted: esp32 in the doorbell chime and sense when the speaker gets current.

@baudneo-- yes, I use the Hass Reolink integration. Interesting that yours has a delay. Mine is virtually instantaneous. Here’s my doorbell ring automation code:

alias: Doorbell relay on press
description: ""
triggers:
  - trigger: state
    entity_id:
      - binary_sensor.reolink_doorbell_visitor
    from: null
    to: "on"
conditions: []
actions:
  - action: switch.turn_on
    metadata: {}
    data: {}
    target:
      entity_id: switch.doorbell_relay_switch
mode: single

It’s because I have mine setup as a Hass automation rather than importing a Hass sensor to the esphome device to work with. Going to give the other method a try, if it’s instantaneous, I won’t need to crack the chime open.

Thanks for that!

I have the V2 chime with the Video Doorbell POE I got. I was also wondering about the situation of intercepting the 915 MHz signal and ringing the existing doorbell chime. Looks like no one has sorted that out.

It’s also looking harder to run POE to where I need it than I’d hoped. I think I’m returning the unit I got before the return window expires.

I wish the POE model could be optionally hardwired and work with an existing chime like the Battery Video Doorbell apparently can. The Battery model doesn’t provide RTSP for the doorbell video. This makes sense since it may be running on its battery all the time, even with charging from the LV AC.

Can you show how your wired this in? I am making a mistake in my wiring somewhere as I am not getting the proper result…

Hi @admanz , can you help with your setup? How did you wire it? On the drawing from @Technowizard I can not make out how a POE version of the doorbell should be wired.

I have been trying for some time to make my old doorbell go off when the Reolink is operated.

In my old setup (before the Reolink came in) I had an esp3266 from Marcel Zuidwijk, (https://www.zuidwijk.com/product/esphome-based-doorbell-v2/) I have cut the wires that the old doorbell made contact with. Should I perhaps repair that? But if I connect those two wires (pretend that the doorbell is pressed) the old gong continues to go off.

My current automation: (switch.doorbell_chime is my old chime)

- alias: TEST2
  description: ''
  triggers:
    - entity_id: binary_sensor.d340p_visitor
      to: "on"
      trigger: state  
  actions:
    - service: switch.turn_on
      metadata: {}
      data: {}
      target:
        entity_id: switch.doorbell_chime
  mode: single

hello. I want to ask. I have a reolink chime V2 that supports wifi. My question is does it also support 433Mhz or is it only available with wifi coverage? Thank you

@Bastiaan1977

Here’s how the wiring would be for the POE version using with a MCHOZY (or other similar module):


Note you don’t really have to use wire nuts on the wires so long as the wires can fit into the MCHOZY Terminals (red COM wire into 1, green TRANS wire into 2 - both instead of into the wire nuts). Hopefully that makes sense…

@tiimsvk

Unfortunately the V2 variant does NOT support 433MHz, and instead uses a 900MHz signal to communicate with the chime. I have yet to find a suitable 900MHz replacement for the MCHOZY device, so you’ll have to use Home Assistant integration or another method to get the job done in the meantime.

Hi @kevinladd–sorry for the delay. I have mine wired up pretty much as does @Technowizard in the OP: one 2-conductor wire from the transformer goes to the doorbell to power it, and another 2-conductor wire goes separately from the transformer to the zigbee relay to power it. Technowizard’s diagram shows using wirenuts, but my wires are just directly connected to the transformer: 2 reds on one terminal and 2 blacks on the other.

My house has two separate 2-conductor wire runs: one to the doorbell and one to the chime. Prior to getting the Reolink, these were connected in one big circuit: the old-school doorbell is just a normally-open switch. When someone pressed (and released) the doorbell button, it momentarily completed the circuit and caused the chime to ring.

To make the Reolink work, I had to break this big loop into two individual circuits, which involved removing a wirenut at the transformer (which connected these two 2-conductor wires together into a single circuit). Then I had two 2-conductor wires, both of which I connected to the terminals on the transformer.