It is non-plus. So I just hold the HA box with Zooz stick right next to it?
OK, what else should I be aware of? Should I use s0 instead of S2?
I wrote a whole new post, detailing what I did - could you please take a look and give me a suggestion?
The 469 Non plus ONLY supports S0 whisper join. So you MUST use S0 (or it wont exchange the lock keys correctly) and S2 didnât exist when this thing was originally built. Whisper Join means within 6" (they turn the radio signal strength WAY down on purpose). I have one Non plus left - my others have been replaced with ZPs. For that one lock and my garage door openers I have a 50â LAN cable so I can bring my actual HA box and coordinator next to the device - then I just stick my ZWave coordinator to the lock (another good reason to have the coordinator on a USB extension) with blue paintersâ tape so I can enter the codes.
- Then before you start anything run a general exclude procedure on the lock just to make sure the ZWave module doesnât think it is joined anywhere (auto exclude on factory reset didnât get added until the ZWave Plus spec so itâs not in the non-plus lock)
- Then the factory reset on the lock.
- *IF youâre using JSUI - go into the ZWave config (settings > Z-Wave > Increase Node Report Timeout and enable it - this lock is slow to report - youâll need this on during the join and anytime you want to re-interview the lock, and possibly for Keymaster to get the codes if you use it)
- THEN start your inclusion process.
Once all thatâs done, I dismantle the tape job - move my HA box back to its home and run a route repair on the lock to ensure it has a good route back to the now moved (as far as the lock is concerned) coordinator⌠You can turn off slow report mode in JSUI if you turned it on, just remember you need it ON to interview this lock.
See if that does it.
These are quite detailed instructions. Thank you. Question - if I am successful, will it be a problem if the HA box with the stick is about 7 ft and one door away?
These are current settings below. Anything else needs to be changed?
Also, exclusion - do I still need to run it either from the Zwave JS UI or from Settings->devices->Zwave? There is only one node and it is the stick.
How do I see the log of messages exchanged? Basically - is the radio alive or dead?
Possibly.
Personally I use 20â between nodes for planning - youâre well within that but⌠Non plus locks work BEST if thereâs a beaming capable repeater within repeating distance (in almost every lock Iâve ever done I put a ZWave switch in the porch light next to that lock - thatâs enough to do it) so it can store and forward messages as the lock naps -it doesnât exactly sleep but itâs not full power awake either. If you see it drop or lose messages - make sure you have a beaming capable repeater (almost all powered devices these days) within 10â of the lock. Yes your coordinator is within 10â but the store and forward function is important if the stick gets busy.
Side note -
Zwave is a mesh network - it relies on having multiple nodes, my STRONG suggestion is more repeaters⌠One node usually ends in sadness. Go buy more home automation stuff!
Rest of that looks fine.
See the icon that looks like a bug (my spouse thinks its a weird traffic light) in Zwave JSUI? Go there, hit start. You can watch the entire process.
OK, once again thank you very much. I donât plan (yet) to add any more Zwave devices - it will be this stick and the lock.
I already have Sonoff Zigbee dongle and about 15 Zigbee devices (mostly temp sensors and energy meters) already. And plan to add SD-radio dongle and run RTL433. And plan to add Google Coral USB stick and add frigate, but this will be in summer.
only if you NEED it (and in this case yes)
You are my hero. Thank you very much!
And what it is absolutely essencial to do factory reset of the lock and do unenrolling after that and confirm that after unenrolling the green checkmark is displayed. Do enrolling after that. I would not know that unless you told me.
BTW, regarding the sensors from the lock displayed by HA - which from the below is relevant? I guess I canât set/unset unlock codes remotely?
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Look up an integration in HACS called Keymaster to set and manage the codes.
The control at the top is the deadbolt itself. The rest are various sensors and settings.
@NathanCu - I am always impressed by the quality of your answers! Hats off!
I still have 3 of these locks as Iâve been waiting for a new revision (800 series) or a Matter compliant version to be released. These locks have worked very well but I canât wait to get the benefits of updated electronics (mostly speed, reliability, easier pairing, etc). For this reason, I might just stick with the same brand and product line for the new locks even though Iâve seen quite a few locks on the market with interesting features. One for example is the Yale lock with replaceable radios⌠The lock can easily last a decade but I wouldnât say the same for evolving radios so being able to upgrade it without replacing the entire lock is very appealing.
If you were to suggest a new, existing or upcoming lock, what would you recommend? Fancy features are nice but the most important will always be long battery life, fast response to commands, fast updates, modern radios/protocols, and last (lol) safety (well designed lock).
Edit: While Keymaster was impressive in terms of features, it seemed to be the cause of a number of issues that made the locks slow/unreliable. Maybe it was just a coincidence, but once I removed it my locks became stable and trouble free. In the end, I only used it for setting codes which I have since moved to Node Red.
So today I discovered that keybard does not work, while surprisingly remote lock unlock via HA/Keymaster works.
Battery level in HA shows 97% and that has not changed for >1 month. Batteries were replaced 2 months ago.
I replaced batteries and keypad started working again and battery status at HA is now 100%. I measured voltage on the pack and it shows 5.7V, new batteries pack show 6.68V.
I guess replacing batteries every 2 months are norm for these locks?
No. Mine last 8. (three locks, thatâs an average)
If youâre lasting 2 months, howâs signal tk the lock. Have you realigned the bolt recently?
If you have signal issue s the radio will always be active
If you have a misalignment it goes into high power mode to ensure the lock closes and that takes an order of magnitude more âjuiceâ
So do you have a beaming capable repeater near the lock and have you realigned the jamb lately.
mmm⌠Realigning? How? And how do I check âsignal tkâ and what it is?
The Zooz 800 stick/HA box is 6ft away from the lock.
Here is what I see on HA screen in the device section
Lock is facing south, so sun is shining to it most of the day, but definitely not heating to 110F and inside right now is 64F
1 the bolt MUST engage the striker plate with no effort and only your thumb and forefinger. If you canât do that itâs misaligned.
Move the striker plate around until the bolt engages without rubbing.
This requires taking the strike plate from the door and re-drilling the holes for the plate mount screws. A trick to fill the old holes: hammer a golf tee coated in wood glue into the old hole then break it off. When its dry shave the remaining tee flush wit the doorframe and then re drill.
These locks are designed to relay Theroux a beaming capable repeater (yes even right next to the coordinator) the beaming repeater stores and forwards the traffic intended for the lock whole it sleeps (it doesnât sleep like a standard battery device but it does nap a little) without it the lock wakes up a lot more to handle messages (at least thatâs how it was described to me) thereâs a post by RBoy on the Samsung SmartThings community titled âwhy do I need a beaming capable repeater if my lock is right next to the hubâ
Those are the most common issues.