BTW How do you recognise the different versions of the Shelly 2.5?
I just received my Shelly 2.5 from Amazon(.nl) in an Italian box with an additional sticker over the barcode on this sticker is the information b07q9m2y1s and Shelly 2.5PM
The information on the device itself is without the PM, is UL-listed (without a number beneath it)
When I look on the internet I see boxes with on the top an additional X1 or X2 (oeps, that is just referring to how many devices are in the box, LOL)
Some devices are sold with a sticker (including number beneath UL-listed)
Some have a black sticker with in bigger letters “UL listed” (see example)
(Still) working with latest Shelly firmware and MQTT activated.
Without power consumption temperature is round 52C
With a power consumption of 6 watt it is now 65C
Last month we work on ECO version of 1gen Shelly devices. The result is:
- Lowering consumption with up to 50%
- Decrease working temperature with up to 5 degree.
No side effects detected! No changes needed, in this firmware mode is activated by default.
HI rosseba, I have a new build with large space cavities for the shelly’s in Australia (it gets hot here, 31c inside) and as i’m having heat issues too. Shelly has suggested i go on the beta. temps have dropped in some cases by 9c. But for 40c max ambient they are meant to run at 55-60 with no load and some of mine still do 71.5c with no load.
I can see from my switch they enable eco wifi as well, no problem for me as my AP’s are in good places. Response time seems no difference either. Drop me a line if you need more - but bear in mind I might be taking them out soon to replace with another product.
I have a very similar installation to @Troon (a Shelly 1PM connected to a 3.1kW immersion water heater in a closet) so i thought I would add my observations to this post.
I recently installed the Shelly 1PM and have it permanently switched on for monitoring purposes with a view to having it turn on at night at a later date (I am currently on a fixed rate tariff but will be moving to a day/night rate tariff in a few months).
My power and device temperature results are as follows, the small blips are due to the thermostat maintaining temperature and the larger one is due to a couple of showers being taken in the morning. As can be seen from the graph, the internal device temperature appears to top-out at just below 70C.
According to the product description the device has over-temperature protection built in. I am on firmware version 20220209-094317 and it also has the following safety features which are exposed in Home Assistant:
ECO Mode (to run at a lower temperature).
Overheating protection (disconnects the load and sets an ‘Overheating’ binary_sensor which can be used as an alert).
Max Power Protection (user settable from 1-3500W which disconnects the load and sets an ‘Overpowering’ binary_sensor).
Board temperature indication (can be used in alerts, automations etc.).
Personally I do not see any reason to re-flash Shelly devices with alternate firmware as the native firmware works great and integrates very well into Home Assistant. Also, it occured to me that some of the above safety features (or future ones that may get included in updates) could be lost when re-flashing devices.
Finally I believe that Shelly have a good reputation and are based in Europe meaning that any known safety issues would need to be communicated and product recalls issued if necessary.
One thing I am thinking of doing is adding the optional Shelly temperature sensor so that I can monitor the tank temperature and top it up as necessary using an automation that includes whether the home is occupied.
I will continue to monitor how the this Shelly 1PM performs and update this thread accordingly.
I was considering using a Shelly 1PM to control my waterheater. After some readings on the web, many people disencourage this kind of way to wire a Shelly:
By default, I fully understand why, but as noob & without any other way to domotize my waterheater, i’m still wondering if it is possible to inject 2400W (~ 10A) for several hours in a row, without destroying the Shelly (or my house…)
Hi @r-jean-pierre I have a very similar setup as you except my water heater is 3100W (12A) so a little more power. The results of my monitoring are shown below … this shows:
Normal/off temperature is around 48C.
When the heater is continuously on (and therefore just topping up) then the device temperature peaks at 65-67C.
When the heater has been off for a while (meaning that the heater needs to be on longer to heat back up) then the temprature peaks at arounf 75C. I don’t think it will ever go much over 75C (maybe a little if the ambient temperature were to increase).
I take the the view that the Shelly is a properly designed product (CE marked) from a reputable company so I am happy to use it, it also has several forms of overheating protection which I listed above. However, I will of course monitor the situation going forward as a precaution.
If you refer to the spec’s at the link (and snip) below it does seem to be operating well within expected temperature limits.
Mine (referenced in this earlier post above) has now been in for two years, doing daily switching of a 3kW immersion heater with no issues at all.
It only ever runs for up to about half an hour before the immersion thermostat cuts off the power — my automation detects the power drop and turns the Shelly off. During that time, the switch reports internal temperatures of typically about 76°C peak.
I’m very careful never to turn off the Shelly relay whilst the load is high: that is a killer for small relays.
Many thanks [Jonah1970] & [Troon] it helps me to balance a bit my own thinkings and by curiosity, did you installed the red shelly close to your respective heating devices or on the contrary close to the main fuse box?
Hi @r-jean-pierre, I have the Shelly 1PM installed in a surface mounted pattress in a small room that houses the hot water tank (meaning it is warmer than any other room). You can see in the photo below how I have used a bigger box to more easily house the Shelly. The other box on the far side is for a second heating element in the tank, this can be manually operated by a switch on the wall but I have never used it. I think it is for a boost or if the other element were to fail.
If you are wondering what the small wires are hanging down then I am currently testing the Shelly temperature Add-on which supports up to 3 Dallas temperature sensors. I am using these to measure the temperature in the tank and am intending to use this to determine if a “boost” is needed say if the temperature was low while the home was occupied. I have one of the outlet under the insulation and another further down on the pressure relief valve and once I have figured out what works best then I will tidy up the wiring.
The following shows how the temperatures appear in Home Assistant.
So far I have found that the top temperature does not work that well as it increases whenever hot water is being used and always remains warm even when there is not much hot water left in the tank (of course because hot water rises). The temperature lower down remains much steadier at a lower temperature but does drop by a few degrees as the hot water get used up so this may be the one that I end up using.
I have a Shelly 1 Plus in a similar room controlling my hot water return pump. Does your device allow for monitoring of its own temperature? If so, what are you getting at Idle?
I didn’t read the whole thread, but a hot device usually indicates a loose or poor connection. The screw terminals in the Shelly and Sonoff are not rated for #12 AWG solid wire. If the wall feels warm above an outlet or switch (any outlet or switch) you likely have a loose connection under a screw terminal.
Yes, the Shelly 1PM does have internal temperature monitoring and mine max’s out at 75C which is supposed to be well within design limits (see my earlier post above).
Loose or poor connections will raise the temperature at the junction. The resistance of a loose connection dissipates power in the form of heat when current flows through it. Even a resistance as low as 1Ω can produce more than enough heat to burn up the connection and surrounding wires. 1Ω * 120V = 120 Watts. That’s a lot of heat.
and by curiosity, did you installed the red shelly close to your respective heating devices or on the contrary close to the main fuse box?
