I have a SW that controls two loads (1, Pair of Flood Lights (Incadescant) and 2, 1 A19 bulb LED) where there is no Neutral in the switch box. So I removed the light fixture with the regular bulb and it was just a pair of wires, seemingly hot and neutral only. Now I assume that under the flood light fixture I will find the hot and Neutral and the switch legs… but that fixture is not easy to reach. Would it be optimal to use a Shelly Dimmer 2 in the original switch box since no neutrals or grounds are required?
The way I see it the options are:
A) use a Shelly Dimmer 2 even though I don’t want or need dimming because no neutral is required…
B) Open up the junction box behind the flood lights and hopefully the source power and the load and the switch leg are represented in this box… then if so I can use any Shelly Dimmer in the box. Probably a Shelly 1PM or the mini version.
What country? Does your wiring run in conduits? If yes, are the wires connected to switch going to one single conduit or separate? If they are running in same conduit, you probably find them behind a light fixture.
Also Shelly 1L works without neutral.
I’m in the USA. Wiring is Romex 12/2. The boxes are metal and there does not seem to be wiring behind the box and if there was that would be highly unusual in the USA.
I did notice the Shelly 1L but did not see any for sale anywhere in the USA when I was searching last week.
I did buy the Shelly Dimmer 2 but I don’t want dimming I just wanted control without the neutral.
Turns out the Shelly Dimmer 2 simply WILL NOT WORK without the bypass wired in parallel… They state this is inly needed if the load is <20 watts but I could not get it to work at all and TS states that the bypass is required. Say goodbye to these dimmers… they are being returned.