The car can be set to 60/90/100% charging power. Using 100% proved to me to be risky on 230V source (proving your point) and I use it only with the 11/22kW chargers. When charging at home, I strictly use 60%, which makes load 1,4kW, which is certainly fine. 12A shines on the 220V charger probably without any reference to the real current and if I am guessing correctly, it could refer to 90% charging power - therefore the maximum safe charging power at home but still with some risk of reaching the maximum.
The OBD dongle, I googled it, looks pretty. However, I am using KIA/Hyundai hacs integration to get all the sensors as they are provided to the KIA app. Thereās no power or energy available.
I also expect that if such values are available on the local OBD socket in your car that it might differ (quite) from the values you could measure with a AC power plug (or other non-contact AC method to donāt introduce unnecessary resistance). Could be that the car just tells you what charge was put into the battery but not what energy actually was necessary to and up with that charge level
AFAIK 12A is the specified continuous power draw defined for schuko sockets while the 16A is peak power. You should be totally fine and donāt melt any sockets/plugs when setting your charging current to 12A
Thatās probably as true as saying all people in the Netherlands collaborated with the Nazis. The reality is different and as the European market is totally depended on Chinese products they are quite good delivering all qualities (and quantities) requested (from low to high). It could be quite challenging nowadays to buy a product which does not contain Chinese materials/products - specially cars or electronics in general The best power tool I can call my own is made in china (belgium company)
I would suggest that if planning to do anything significant with the smart outlet, i.e. what many would consider āheavy-dutyā use, it would be best to get the input from electricians from the same localeā¦ Not to say they havenāt already contributedā¦ but stillā¦ anecdotal evidence will not save you from an electrical faultā¦ Just my 2cā¦
Iāll qualify my statement by saying I have used a KP115 on my washing machineā¦ so not necessarily following my own adviceā¦
Ok, so letās get back to the question of this thread.
I did not ask about sockets toughness that would withstand the load of car charging. I believe that car manufacturers are capable to follow EU regulations and standards to charge a car from a common 220/230V socket using their charger as wel as smart plugs manufacturers allowed to sell their products have tested them on respective load that still visibly have enough reserves. Even the maximum at 3,4kW simply cannot burn your house because the manufacturer would be responsible.
The problem is how to measure energy consumption when I am out of my home assistant and my network. Thanks.
The last comment about the responsibility might be a theoretical one as it might be more than tricky in case you have a damage to get even 1 cent from a company from overseas
And indeed - most of the smart plugs are actually made out of non-burning material (which is very convenient because most fire insurances donāt pay in this cases at all because smo(u)ldering isnāt a fire - still the damage is often disastrous anyway).
Device based on this design flaw were soled from various white labels (all produced by tuya) and had different maximum ratings including max. 10A and others max 16A.
Like stated before you can just integrate your power usage over time directly on the plug an save it flash if you have control over your device. The moment your plug is online it can send the latest total energy to your HA server which will update your entity in that moment. As stated before HA doesnāt support synchronizing old timestamp/values.
the ones coming preinstalled with esphom/tasmota are the easiest because they can be directly ota updated
Tasmota does not have support for th native api so mqtt is probably mandatory for communication.
Features of native API (vs. MQTT):
Much more efficient: ESPHome encodes all messages in a highly optimized format with protocol buffers - for example binary sensor state messages are about 1/10 of the size.
One-click configuration: ESPHome just needs one click to set up in Home Assistant - no more messing around with retained MQTT discovery messages and alike.
One less single point of failure: In the ESPHome native API each ESP is its own server. With MQTT, when the broker shuts off nothing can communicate anymore.
Stability: Since ESPHome has far more control over the protocol than with MQTT, itās really easy for us to roll out stability improvements.
Low Latency: The native API is optimized for very low latency, usually this is only a couple of milliseconds and far less than can be noticed by the eye.
The configuration of your esphome node (plug) takes all place in one yaml. To achieve the same (save total energy to flash, check for api (mqtt) availability and send values via webhook if connected to wifi but not to HA, etc.) might be a bit different in tasmota and you probably need to use some configurations in web ui, Other settings can be only found in commands (console) and some things could require (not too intuitve) scripting language. In the worst case scenario it is necessary to manually make changes before building a tasmota binary.
But if you are new to both best is probably just to test them out
I bought Athom devices. Both, Tasmota (wall plug) and ESP based (schuko plug).
The wall plug turned dead after the first update using the provided link. The Athom support told me to flash TASMOTA directly by serial. Although I can do that, I think as a user, I am not supposed to kill the plug with the provided/preconfigured link during the first few minutes.
The schuko plugs were esp based and could be added like charm as told here and as expected, however, the LED cannot be turned off. The button in its configuration does not have an effect.
So, in general, I would like to test some other ESP based devices but those that work as expected out of the box. Which brands do you have a good experience with?
ok, so I am writing the final report on whether I was able to achieve what I needed. I donāt.
The following graph shows that the ESP based Athom Plug did not save anything in any memory. I kept my dryer going, turned off the wifi and waited. Instead of adding the consumption during the time the wifi was turned off, it just continued from the last known state.
I am using the energy sensor provided by ESP but then I use helpers āutility meterā and it looks like the problem is the helper. This is a graph from the energy sensor, which apparently make the proper jump during the time wifi was off. I am not creating Riemann sum integral in this case.
Ok, so the plug is capable to count continuous consumption when wifi is off but how to transform the effect into utility meters? The ESP provides daily consumption but not monthly, which is crucial for any analysis.
Oouch sorry! So does this mean I can create a sensor directly in the yaml file I can edit in the ESPHome addon > particular device instead of using utility meter helper? Sorry, this is the first time I am working with ESP and I value your time and patience to guide me.
The periodically_resetting is not the problem, the utility meter works like a common analog meter, when the energy is not growing step by step it stops incrementally add values. I guess I need an alternative directly within the ESP yaml in order to have a monthly meter comparably to the provided daily meter by the integration.
Enable this if the source sensor state is expected to reset to 0, for example, a smart plug that resets on boot. When this option is disabled (for example, if the source sensor is a domestic utility meter that never resets during the deviceās lifetime), the difference between the new value and the last valid value is added to the utility meter, which avoids the loss of a meter reading after the source sensor becomes available after being unavailable.
So you could probably also keep your (total) energy (integration sensor) on the esphome device and do the daily/weekly/monthly/yearly utility meters you need in HA
Would you mind to write down an example yaml code for me? I tried to play with it but the docs expect understanding the syntax to the extent that I cannot comprehend it. Thank you.
The best power tool I can call my own is made in china (belgium company) 
(which is very convenient because most fire insurances donāt pay in this cases at all because smo(u)ldering isnāt a fire - still the damage is often disastrous anyway). 
