I have a pretty interesting setup in the kitchen.
Two work zones, 1 and 2, each have their own line.
I want to use two of the 3-gang touch switches (no neutral) to virtually control different devices in my kitchen.
W1 line is a direct one and consists of:
- a few sockets
- a branch to LED 1
- a branch from W1 to the LED2 at W2.
W2 line has a contractor that can power off sockets in that group, and consists of:
- contactor line to turn it on\off
- a set of sockets behind the contactor
- passthrough wires from W1 LED1 to W2 LED2
About the LED:
Initially, it was designed to be a dumb switch, to turn on and off each LED zone from the related W1 or W2 zones. A few years later, I realised that itās better not to power off LED lines completely if I want to use a smart LED controller. So now all led lines are in full pass-through mode, no breakers. Each LED will have a smart controller now.
The scheme:
The switch:
The switch is Zb no-neutral 3 gang.
W2 zone is fine
At the W2, I added this switch for a contactor, and it works fine. There are 2 more buttons which are not connected to anything, that I can use as āvirtualā switches, for example, for each of the LED zones (smart LED controller) or anything else.
W1 Zone is problematic
At the W1 zone, Iāve tried to use the same switch, but since there is no load at all, I cannot āemulateā a little current draw, so I tried to use a capacitor from another Zb relay
- This picture is modified to look like the scheme I was trying to achieve with the 3-gang Zb switch.
In short, this switch is completely virtual; there is nothing it can power off. However, there is an LED1 to LED2 line, but I cannot make it breakable, as I want the LED line to be powered on all the time, so the LED controller would not go offline.
What should I do to make this switch work?
Capacitor workaround
- Change the capacitor to another one that can draw enough current to power up the switch?
- Add a tiny 220 bulb into the socket box with a capacitor.
Assuming my current test setup capacitor is not enough
Wiring workaround
- Connect the switch in PARALLEL with the LED.
*So that the LED transformer and controller will draw a little current always, but being in parallel, this switch will not break the circuit.
L from LED line into the switch L AND into switch L1 *
Nothing from above
The last approach with the least brain injury chance would be to buy a switch with N wires, and just connect it to the W1 line L to L N to N. This switch will be only at L\N lines without anything else connected, fully virtual.
N.B. I have a similar setup in the bedroom too, but as soon as I understand the problem at the kitchen setup, I can reuse this experience there.
Thanks in advance.
I will experiment with all my bullets and will update this topic accordingly.
UPD: Similar switch from the same company but WITH neutral wire is working fine, which is the best option for now. Moreover, the N switch is working as a Zb router!
