[Solved] Make 12V LED Switch smart

Hi everyone.

I have a kitchen LED bar wich is connected to a nice 12V switch in a perfect position. Now as my Smarthome plans are rising I want to “smartify” that little switch. Means I want to still use the switch in the kitchen but also want to switch it off from the couch.

Don’t know why but I am unable to find a proper solution… I have a HmIP-FSI16 laying around, as far as I understood it does exactly what I need, but only if the switch would be a 230V switch?!. I cannot find any alternative allowing me to use a low voltage switch.

Do you have any recommendations? I cant believe that this seems to be an unusual usecase??!?

ps: if somehow possible I don’t want to use a battery driven device, since I have 230V an 12V available and see no need in remembering changing the battery in 3-5 years.

Küchenlicht

Thank you! Dave

You could use a Shelly or Sonoff mini.
They have input switches.

But that means you need to rewire it.
Connect the lifts to always be on, (remove switch).
Then add the Sonoff/Shelly on 230 side and connect the switch to the Sonoff/Shelly.

3380ca798403b8cfe550477b6b0e4e89eaf171f0~2

That’s the best I could do on the phone.

Other possibility is to build something with an ESP and a relay and switch the 12 volt side.
It’s pretty much the same thing but not packaged in a box.

A Shelly 1 has native support for 12v. No need for rewiring.

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I keep forgetting about that

But you still need to rewire the switch.

Sonoff SV, works with any voltage between 5 and 24V

or you could always use the switch you already have, but placed before the 12V transformer, i.e. directly in the mains - right?

wow that was fast and also including custom graphics! Thank you all for the ideas.

I will not risk to change the switch to 230V since I have no clue if it would be save or not. (I dont know the Switch, as it was already installed by the pre owner.

I found the Sonoff too, but did not understand how you integrate the switch into the circuit?
The shelly sounds like a great option, I may have overread the 12V capabilities here…

Cheers, Dave

With this info I ask myself where is the difference between the Shelly 1 and the HomematicIP FSI16, beside the 1/5 cost and the additional 12V capabilities? I may can save a lot of money here :slight_smile:

Cheers, Dave

I actually had to google this one. Shelly 1 is Wifi, the HomematicIP FSI16 is z-wave I think (based on 868 MHz ) ?

As I am relatively new to the new age of smart home… what would you prefere? I know this is going off topic here but now I am curious. I started with Homematic IP because the old owner already installed a bunch of floor heating thermostats from HomematicIP.

The light switch will be my first HA project to get it startet. => High Wife acceptance factor if we can switch that light from the couch :smiley:

Cheers, Dave

I would definitely go for the shelly (I have 12 in the house, all working without a problem for over 2 years).

I will keep that in mind.

Thanks!

Cheers, Dave

You won’t have to replace/change it.
All you do is to wire it as if the lights would be permanently on.
Then wire the switch to the Sonoff/Shelly.
These wires will not have any voltage or current (not noticeably), they are just there to sense if there is contact or not.
Like the beeper mode on the multimeter.

This is where I am very unsure how it really is.

The wiring diagram of the shelly 1 shows the following:

I understand that this needs to be the same phase (L) as the actual consumer?

Now that I have a 12V operating and switch current I can wire it like in the picture above.

Cheers, Dave

Oh… Sorry I remembered wrong about Shelly.
I thought it had S1,S2 as Sonoff.

image

Here the switch does not have anything to do with the actual voltage.

Okay, that makes sense.

This scheme looks also like a good solution (and compared to the other sonoff boards in a nice box; I do not like the free circuit boards :innocent: ). I already ordered a Shelly 1. But I will keep this as a backup plan!

Thank.

Cheers Dave

But the mini(r2) does not work with 12v : AC 100-240V 50/60Hz 10A Max

As I understood, I could use the full AC power for the Sonoff and then use the switch without any current. It would not be super perfect to cut the power plug wires but would be okay.

Cheery Dave

You got it correctly.
But most of the times you can do it without cutting.
The wires come from somewhere and if that is not too far away then you just put it at that position by adding wires (usually behind somewhere or above something in a kitchen).

But the Shelly does have benefits that it works on 12 volts

Hi everyone,

thank you again for your help! The Shelly 1 arrived and works like a charm. The WAF is good, so this is the perfect introduction into several automation projects :wink:

To complete this Thread, this is how I wired the Shelly1 after I jumpered it to run on 12V DC:

Cheers, Dave

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