I would like to know how this device works in case of powercycle. I want to place it between a regular wall switch and a ceiling light without a neutral wire. So when the wall switch is turned off the Sonoff device will also turn off. But what happens when power is turned on. Will then:
The last situation would not be acceptable for me because in that case you need an extra action to turn it on.
Is it possible to change it from light to switch? Itâs also annoying that it shows a dimmer slider for ir.
I never found a way - didnât try too much either.
Please keep us updated
Thereâs a workaround. I created template switch to operate the light entity. Works for me.
I use mine for a fan so used a template fan
My experience is that it is unfortunately the latter which is the case. I have not found a way to set the power on by default. When I connect power, the default state is always off, which limits the useability in terms of using it in series with standard light switch.
Thank you. That will make them also useless for my use case.
You can use Shelly like that. Actually You can choose whatâs the state from: last, off, on.
What are you hoping to achieve by doing this? You wonât have any switchable wiring.
I was hoping that these devices would behave similar as Zigbee IKEA lights do when they are cut of power. You can still control them by main switch to turn them on and off or even reset.
But it sounds like these smart switches are not that smart.
Theyâre far smarter than an Ikea bulb and can be set up to do whatever you want when they power up as well a multitude of other things only limited by your imagination BUT youâre problem is you havenât got a third line at the switch that would allow you to power the device and have a circuit that you can switch with it.
The best solution with a Sonoff and no neutral at the switch is to install in the ceiling at the lamp end where you have all the connections you need. Myself and others have described how to do it at length and with diagrams on this forum if you have a search.
Other option is to use alternatively powered devices at the switch end, either something with an independent battery or those that get their power by letting a tiny amount power along the line at all times which is enough to power the device but not enough that you can notice any light output from the bulb, this is how old IR dimmer switches work.
Is anyone sucesfully connected a bistable switch to this unit? I did that on Sonoff Basic using a toggle switch to GPIO14 and ground. Is there a way to do that on BASICZBR3??
Hi all!
I have flashed CC2531 and can not discover this device? Maybe somebody have positive experience?
I have the same issue as Scroodge, Using Zigbee2MQTT with CC2530 USB and getting nothing,
BasicZBR3 is not appearing in the log, Definately permitting all devices to join network at the time, but just nothing from Zigbee2MQTT.
Those that have it working, Are you using a Zigbee Gateway device or similar?
How are you connected to Zigbee from HA
Found the issue
There are reports of Bad Link Quality from these device, However I can confirm a significant amount variance in the devices, Of the devices I purchased (10 of them)
Joining them at the same exact desk not even 2m away from the Home Assistant device directly.
4 of them were above 70 LQI, 4 of them were below 40 and 2 I didnât leave connected long enough to register an LQI, But given that each of them were connected at the exact same place, Itâs a significant amount of variance per device.
But this would be why I couldnât connect one of the devices, it probably was just a low link quality and wasnât close enoughâŚ
But yeah, Watch out for the variance between devices!