SSS Siedle HTA 811 - Door Phone - Notify in Ring

[MaxW (Max Winterstein)]

Hi @all,

Important

I am no good electronics guy, nor should this bring anyone who is not able/approved/sure to tamper at his door phone system. Take care of everything you do, and in case of doubt ask a parent.

Proloque

As someone with a toddler, turning off the doorbell is a pretty common thing. But, if you order a ton of stuff online you will find yourself shouting at the Amazon delivery guy who bangs at the door and screams for you, to get his package delivered. Thanks for waking up my little boy. Really good job…

As I am not very deep into electronics, I just scraped all information found and tried to get it done on my system, as I did not find some clear “Hey, you have some HTA 811, this is how I did it”. So here it is.

As I was not interested in opening the door remotely I did not add any relay or similar for this. My target was to get some sensor at HA to e.g. send notification or flash some lights.

Needed Parts:

• WeMos D1 Mini
• 2 rectifier (Brückengleichrichter) DB107
• 1 optocoupler PC817C
• 1 1K resistor.

HTA vs. HTS

A pretty common system here in Germany is made by SSS Siedle. I have some HTA 811. The A is some important information, as it tells it is the analog version. There is also HTS out there, which has way more features and some other power supply.

In short:

• HTA: AC Powered
• HTS: DC Powered

HTA 811

Adding electronics

Power Supply

I was able to hijack the door opener button. It has constant ~12V (iirc) AC available. Using some rectifier and a 5V BEC i was able to power the ESP8266. In my case some little capacitor was needed to make sure the BEC worked. I guess some AC-DC bucket converter would do the job too. But this was laying around.

Recognise the bell

The moment the bell was pressed on some line there was the same ~12V available. By using a recitifier and some optocoupler i was able to just use one GPIO. It needed some 1k resistor to work.

Photos

First breadboard prototype

I simply soldered to the board of the phone itself. This is the only impact on the existing system and can be replaced by using the screws of the yellow block.

I threw all stuff against some perfboard. It is not pretty, but it works.

Software

I just used ESPHome for this job.

esphome:
  name: tuerklingel

esp8266:
  board: d1_mini

# Enable logging
logger:

# Enable Home Assistant API
api:

ota:
  password: "XXX"

wifi:
  ssid: !secret wifi_ssid
  password: !secret wifi_password

  # Enable fallback hotspot (captive portal) in case wifi connection fails
  ap:
    ssid: "Tuerklingel Fallback Hotspot"
    password: "XXX"

captive_portal:
    
    
binary_sensor:
  - platform: gpio
    pin:
      number: D2
      mode:
        input: true
        pullup: true
      inverted: true
    name: Klingel
    filters:
      - delayed_off: 50ms

That’s all needed to do.

As said, I am no good electronics guy, so I did not post links to what I bought on purpose.
Sure, using some optocoupler with integrated AC/DC would be possible, but was not available for me quickly.

Hope this will help someone. Make sure to read the links below, they might explain it even better.

Greetings
Max

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Good to read:

Smarte Türklingel - Alte Sprechanlage smart machen - Panbachi

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GPIO Binary Sensor

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[aceindy]

How could you have overlooked this one?
DIY Smart Doorbell for just $2, no soldering required » Frenck.dev from our charismatic leader @frenck

I’ve installed it with my existing doorbell, and ha turns the doorbell off between 20:00 and 07:00

[ollioddi]

I have literally spent the week researching this.

Are you able to provide the schematics for the wiring? As a non german, it is a help to have a post from a non german forum

Do you also know how to wire up if you need to be able to unlock the door?

[Hellis81]

@ollioddi

Do you also know how to wire up if you need to be able to unlock the door?

That part is usually fairly easy.
Just an opto coupler over the connections that the “open the door” button.
Using a relay may cause it to become sticky and keep the door open.
Opto couplers (as far as I know) can’t become sticky.

I’m more interested in how he found the wire for “ring”.
My German is far from good.

[MaxW (Max Winterstein)]

@aceindy

How could you have overlooked this one?

Hehe, charismatic leader In fact, I had some small chat conversations with him. A good guy, but maybe a little rough

It is a nice project indeed, but he has some other hardware around.

• He has some DC signal
• He uses some external power supply
• He has some external bell

Anyways, nice project, but not directly suitable for me.

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@ollioddi

Are you able to provide the schematics for the wiring? As a non german, it is a help to have a post from a non german forum

I will try to do some drawing, always wanted to have a reasing to try https://fritzing.org/

@ollioddi

Do you also know how to wire up if you need to be able to unlock the door?

As @Hellis81 said, I guess this can be done with another optocoupler, but I am not sure about the AC/DC thing here. Another thing to consider would be the rating of the, i guess most common, pc814 optocoupler. It’s rated 50mA, and I have no clue how much the door opener takes.
I must admit, this question should be answered by somebody who knows more aboute electronics than me

@Hellis81

I’m more interested in how he found the wire for “ring”.
My German is far from good.

In my case, I just did some try and error. Used some multimeter on the AC setting and asked the wife to toggle the bell until I found something.

As told, there seem to be various versions of these door systems that exist, and luckily I have an old system that does not need some bus signal decoding or anything.

If I can help in any way, e.g. by having a look at some german manual, just let me know.

[Hellis81]

The version I have only uses two cables for everything.
It makes it a little harder to understand what is going on on the board.
At least for me.

@MaxW

As @Hellis81 said, I guess this can be done with another optocoupler, but I am not sure about the AC/DC thing here. Another thing to consider would be the rating of the, i guess most common, pc814 optocoupler. It’s rated 50mA, and I have no clue how much the door opener takes.
I must admit, this question should be answered by somebody who knows more aboute electronics than me

I think that part is a fairly simple thing.
I just tried hooking up an opto coupler and it worked fine, if it would have been toasted then it wouldn’t been a big loss.

[MaxW (Max Winterstein)]

@Hellis81

The version I have only uses two cables for everything.
It makes it a little harder to understand what is going on on the board.
At least for me.

I think I read about that, it lowers the voltage when the bell should ring as far as i remember.

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Thats how I did it. May have all people mercy, who knows how to draw good layouts