Thank you all for sharing your insights on this page.
I ended up creating 1.5k with three 1k resistors.
Never thought I would be able to solder that small…
The SMD resistor is unbelievable tiny… Once desoldered, I had to search for it for a minute
Picture of final assembly:
Note: after this mod, I noticed that my ‘Philio PST2/A door/window sensor’ was no longer communicating properly. Only after resetting the sensor & adding it again to Home Assistant, I got it working again, but it seems that it is behaving differently than before… For example, I’m no longer able to change the parameters of this sensor…
Anyone experienced something similar?
This is awesome. Worked for me, However. I accidentally removed R1 first. Still works but not able to add anymore devices now… sheit. Dont think i can solder small enough to get a resistor back on there. Anyone know the value of R1?
Hi. I have a gen + and when I plug it into the Pi4 it crashes the supervisor. I have made the mod (cant go back as I lost the small resistor ) but the issue is still there. Any ideas why it is still happening after the mod?
Just did the mod aswell as updated the firmware to Gen5+ version found here:
If you want to keep as much radio strength as possible do not solder resistors so close to the antenna area. It will greatly impact range and signal quality. There is a reason for the gap they put in the design.
Hi @liamstears and everyone else contributed in this thread! Thank you all for your posts!
My first attempt for the USB issue of the stick was to connect it with rpi4 through a simple USB 2.0 hub, but after a while, rpi4 was loosing the connection.
The mod you proposed here is working just perfect!
Gladly I came across this post. I was pulling my hairs out to switch between Pi3b and my Pi4 back and forth. On the 3 everything was working fine but USB was missing in Pi4. Aaaah.
Now I plugged an USB3.0 unpowered hub and seems te work fine again. Hope its will stay.
I really don’t understand that this seems to be an hardware thing and can’t be fixed with a new firmware.
(FW: v1.1. SDK: v6.51.10)
This is a hardware thing like plugging in a US bulb (120VAC) in Europe (220VAC) except in this case the RPi hardware just about copes with the over-voltage and doesn’t blow up.
Hardware issues like this need a hardware fix - some dumb USB hubs can buffer the wrong 5V pull-up so that the 3V3 RPi data lines work. It’s possible some hubs (like the RPi) might be more sensitive to the over-voltage than others, but they are cheap and easy to replace - unlike a RPi or the coordinator.
The Raspberry Pi Foundation created a good design that meets specifications. Aeotec apparently less so!
Hi Mariobrx, Yes it worked fine for me for about a year. I have now moved my HA to a VM in my Unraid server for other reasons. But I am still using the USB 2.0 Hub.
I made the modification and the stick is now recognized as ttyAMA0 however not as ttyUSB0 or 1. The stick is also not recognized in zwavejs2Mqtt, am I missing something?
Sounds like a valid raw device to me - not all serial devices appear as /dev/ttyUSBx, so /dev/ttyAMAx is perfectly valid. If you are using HASSOS, this device number may change so a persistent device name is preferred - basically, if there’s a longer device node that appears, try that one!
If you’re getting the LEDs change from orange (charging internal battery - not used these days) to green, and a serial device, it’s working.
Try un-plugging and re-plugging - this can trigger HASS into auto-discovery (worked for me, but that was ZHA, not Z2M).
I wasn’t able to fix it but it still worked in my PI 3,I now moved over to the aeotec 700, I had is already for over an year but back then the firmware wasn’t stable, the latest versions seem to be better.
I knew those assorted resistors I bought from Amazon a while back would come in handy.
I upgraded from a Pi3 to Pi4 and like everyone else, the Z-Stick stopped working. What a boneheaded design.
I am a completely novice solderer but thanks to this thread, and with about an hour of patience, I was able to do the mod (1K + 510 ohm resistors). It’s now working as expected.