Would the above device work for me? Would it be a good cost-effective solution to do what I want? I’m looking for a canned Z-wave solution to plug my washer and dryer into directly.
I’m starting with an assumption that because you said ‘regular 110’ you’re in north America? (power requirements vary around the world and 110- that’s not enough to know)
Assuming you’re in the US. You need to know what your washer and dryer use. what is the rating of the circuit breaker each is on, what’s the voltage of your washer and dryer - don’t assume personally I have a 110/20 dryer and a 220/30 dryer.
It will also help to understand the inrush current but it’s less important in this case as long as you stick to the circuit rating.
That switch works great for up to two poles up to 40 a per pole. But may not actually be necessary for the washer, depending on its circuit.
If the washer is 110 zooz makes a good heavy duty ZWave plug on a short extension.
Now with ANY power metering on ZWave. Throttle it. A LOT. ZWave wasn’t designed for a lot of traffic and a chatty outlet like the zooz with power metering maxed can overrun an entire network QUICKLY. You cN make it work with careful tuning.
Verify the voltages. It is not common for washers to be above 110V. Dryers don’t necessarily require 220V either; for example a gas dryer will be 110V.
I’ve been looking at the same switch for my dryer, but I would still need to get the plugs. There are multiple types of 220V plugs in the U.S.; straight pin, twist locks, left or right ‘L’, ground in center, ground in the ring…it can be a nightmare to figure out sometimes. The common mistake I make is I look at the male plug to figure out the female that I need and I match with the “L” bends going the wrong direction because of the way I look at them. Anyway…there are way more than one option is my point.
My circuit panel’s notes (see below) show that the circuit below (in the photo) is meant for the “Dryer”. However, I have a feeling that might be the circuit both Dryer and Washer since I couldn’t find a circuit labeled as “Washer”; and, 60A (30A+30A) seems awfully high for just one appliance.
Would it make sense that my dryer and washer each need their own 30 amp Power switch?
When I looked at the Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch photos, it looked like I couldn’t just connect the Dryer’s 220v appliance plug directly into the Smart Switch. Maybe it’s because as you said there are multiple 220v plug configurations; requiring to manually connect each pin into the smart switch.
I may not even go down this route if there isn’t a simple smart switch that I can just plug into the wall like all my other <15amp 110v devices.
You have to hardwire the Aeotec before the plug. Because you have to match the NEMA plug configuration as @GlennHA said.
That breaker is a tandem dipole 30A / 220 volt circuit. The Aeotec will work but you need to know how to wire it in. If you don’t know what you are doing with multiphase power call an electrician.
No it does not make sense for the washer to be 220 in MOST cases a washer in Northamerica is 110/20/single phase.
Get behind the washer and eyes on the plug. If it looks like every other plug in your house it’s 110 and NOT on those 220 breakers. (I’m almost positive this is the case unless you installed a commercial washer.)This is when you get to trace the breaker for that plug.
And no for 220/multiphase there is NOT a simple plug in device as you are noting.
Thank you for your response. You’re 100% correct. My washer uses a regular plug like all my other electrical appliances. It seems like the Zooz Zen15 is the most popular smart power switch for Washers.
Just curious, if I buy the Aeotech Heavy Duty Smart Switch, how long would it take for a real electrician to connect it to my dryer and the wall plug? 10-15 minutes?
If you are only interested in detecting when your dryer is running, you can save a lot of money by installing one of these over the lead of one leg of the cable connected to the dryer’s heat element.
Then wire the leads to the dry contacts on the PCB of this contact sensor. Note it will be closed when the dryer is running and open when it is off.
If you are getting open & closed oscillations then you have the CT-800 over the lead to the motor. Switching it to the other side will resolve it.
This setup has been working for me flawlessly for over 3 years.
Thanks. I vibration sensor might be easier to install… but, maybe this would be more effective. I still would prefer to see the load dryer draws. Although, it’s going to cost me significantly more.
