Sounds like he’s the one missing out, then. RATGDO is so much better than the original MyQ integration. I only had to correct 2 doors, so it was a good upgrade for me.
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You’re making an assumption.
Many of us had other solutions (that were still better than your HomeKit one), and ratgdo has been the natural (and exceptional) evolution of that.
Your HomeKit approach is no better than MyQ – and still stands the risk of being borked by a Chamberlain decision. I wouldn’t put it past them to brick the HomeKit bridge devices.
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I know exactly what you’re talking about - it’s the Chamberlain HomeKit Bridge (piece of junk).
I know plenty about HomeKit, and it either works or it doesn’t. There’s almost zero room for diagnosis or setup changes. That’s great that it works for you. It doesn’t work well for many. Its UI sucks if you have more than 4-5 devices.
I’m well aware that this “solution” has existed for quite some time. I have one of those bridges in a box in my basement – it’s not all that useful, and is severely limited in capability. It is about as reliable as MyQ ever was.
That’s nice that you’re happy. But your ongoing belligerence is getting tiring.
I just installed a Chamberlin B4655T garage door opener and was hoping for an integration but I guess it’s over now since every manufacture wants to nickel and dime everyone.
I was on an old 2002 Craftsman and I had it connected via a Konnected alarm panel and relay switch. It stopped working after I installed this new garage door opener. After looking around the internet, it looks like you need a Security+ 2.0 Dry Contact Adapter for LiftMaster and Chamberlain. This device should work for the Meross garage door opener as well. But, it got me thinking because I have an extra remote for the same opener. I didn’t solder the connections on but just fed wire through the connection terminals and wrapped them around instead to my extra remote from my Konnected relay.
Low and behold it worked. I have the extra remote mounted right above the opener. So, I would say not to purchase a Security+ 2.0 Dry Contact Adapter for LiftMaster and Chamberlain but to buy an extra remote one from Home Depot or Amazon, program it and make sure it can open your door. Here are a couple of pics of what I did. I didn’t take a pic of inside the remote but I can if someone needs me to.
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This is a known solution.
However, it comes with a couple of suboptimal situations that making buying the wall push-button a better approach:
- the remote you used is battery powered – and may fail right when you need it most.
- the remote you used is more expensive than the normal wall button (Chamberlain or Liftmaster) which can be wired in parallel with your existing button.
True. Eventually I will probably solder the connection directly to my wall switch but for now this is working for me. I am not willing to purchase an extra wall switch and from what I have read that these openers don’t like 2 wall switches jumped from one to another. I just had an extra remote and gave it a shot. I hope you can figure out your situation and if you do please post it.
If you already had the remote, no big deal (other than the battery issue). If you’re buying something new, the wall button is slightly cheaper ($10 vs $13 on Amazon) and doesn’t run into the issue of batteries.
I’m not sure where you’ve read that they don’t like two wall switches – that’s not been my experience (I’ve had two switches on my Liftmaster for almost six years, no issue), and it is actually part of the product documentation that it will support more than one (I believe it is up to two of the “fancy” ones and six of the “basic” ones). They do need to be connected in parallel.
I figured out my situation months ago, LOL. I’ve got three different ways to open my GDO that aren’t Chamberlain:
- ratgdo (preferred)
- Linear z-wave controller connected via solder connections on a Liftmaster 883LM pushbutton (secondary to my wall control 886LM), connected to my home alarm system
- Ecolink GDZW7 (emulates Chamberlain wireless remote, connects back to HA via z-wave)
I’ve looked at Tailwind and Meross… neither brings anything to the table that the above options don’t already have for a fraction of the price.
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I ended up purchasing a button on amazon it was the 883LMW https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W5RMN56?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
I searched this thread for this how to and couldn’t find it. But this is how I soldered it to make it work with HA. Do-It-Yourself Security+ 2.0 Adapter :
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I was tired of the integration working and then not and being dependent on MyQ. I was trying to see if there was anything that i could short on the board to get it to open the door since a normal push button wont work, and in the process of putting the case back on (while the opener was still installed) i fried the board!
I knew I wasnt going to buy another Chamberlain/MyQ opener, so I initally went with the ‘smart’ version that Genie has but went back the next morning and pick up the non connnected version since I didn’t want to be dependent on the ‘cloud’ again for my stuff to work. That said I used this garage door project on a d1 mini using a relay and some contact sensors and it’s been working like a champ ever since. I used this same project at my old house for years as well.
hi everyone, was there ever any progress on routing any requests through the MyQ Bridge?
I believe that was well-discussed previously – it’s a roundabout way as you use the HomeKit integration in HA to talk to the MyQ Bridge that does something (unclear on whether that talks locally to the opener, or if it sends an API command to the cloud).
I was in a rental and already had a dry contact that I soldered to a remote.
But, just bought a house that has two Liftmaster openers.
I initially set it up with two hinge/door sensors. But have not yet setup the soldered remote. So, I looked into Ratgdo and am a convert. I just ordered two of them.
Luckily, I am behind the rush and they will deliver in the next day or so.
Got them.
Gotta say … these sumbitches just work. So impressed!
Thanks to @PaulWieland!
GitHub - PaulWieland/ratgdo
I agree. MyQ trying to screw everybody was for the best in my situation. The RatGDO is better than the MyQ integration in every way even when it was working. It’s so much faster since it’s local and not reaching out to the cloud for updates. I used to have this noticeable delay from my garage door opening at night until homeassistant would notice and turn on the lights.
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Not to mention… you don’t have that beepy/flashy waiting step. When you direct the door to go down, it goes down.