The Current State of MyQ - From the codeowner

As soon as my ratgdo arrives I will 100% be ditching MyQ and disabling WiFi on it so they cant push feature limiting product updates to the opener.

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I would heavily suggest taking OPs conversation with someone in the sales/partnership/bizdev division of Corporate at face value over the words of a (likely outsourced) front line support technician who is deliberately given limited insider information and has almost zero visibility into corporate plans over the horizon.

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It would be nice to have a solution that works like the MyQ gateway. Kind of like those manual remotes that can be set up to learn, plus an ethernet connection or even wifi.

That’s awesome to hear, the one I ordered is arriving today.

I use the MyQ integration primarily as a notification (audible and visual) whenever my garage door opens. It was originally intended to let us know when Amazon Key Delivery was making a delivery.

So, knowing IFTTT had MyQ integration, I created an IFTTT Applet that would POST a Home Assistant Webhook trigger on my instance to trigger the Garage Door Opening automation. It worked once yesterday and hasn’t worked since.

I’m not certain what’s up with the IFTTT/MyQ integration, but it doesn’t seem reliable at all.

(Ugh, and I thought I had a temporary workaround while @Lash-L works on a permanent fix.)

Hey Lash-L I appreciate your efforts. Before I had even read this, I had gone on Amazon Australia and bought a Meross Smart Garage Door Opener. Meross kindly confirmed it works with my Chamberlain CS105MYQ that I had bought in Bunnings Warehouse. Installation took about 20 minutes and it works perfectly.

So as it happens, I am a Cyber security architect by trade. What MyQ are telling us is frankly bullshit, yes, API protection is valid control as APIs get hacked all the time, no, AI is not blocking us - AI probably detected our activity on a SIEM console somewhere and humans stepped in to actively fight us.

There are two Meross Integrations to choose from, I chose Meross LAN, as it did not come with a dire warning about API abuse.

I have set up for simultaneous use with Homekit on household iPhones, as well as Homeassistant/Google Home. It works perfectly. The homekit integration is way more responsive than MyQ ever was.

After a day of use, I disconnected myq, and threw it in the trash. Then I removed the myq HA integration.

Good luck everyone.

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I just ordered a Tailwind too. Had a couple questions and the Tailwind owner answered them within 30 minutes. One of my openers has built-in MyQ so I’ll just set that up for Amazon Key.

I think a good starting point would be putting in a user agent that actually is sensible vs a randomly generated string.

If Cloudflare sees 10,000 request from “MyQ iOS app 2.1.3”, that’s a lot more trustworthy than 10,000 random strings.

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I managed to get the homekit bridge working. Setup was a pain because the instructions they include in the box and the android app are both garbage. I eventually figured out that to get it working with my opener I had to do the following (including the steps here in case anyone gets one of these bridges and runs in to the same issues)…

  1. Plug in the homekit bridge and make sure the LED shows as blue.
  2. Open the MyQ app (I was doing this in the android app, IOS app may be different).
  3. Click the plus sign in the bottom right (or the plus sign by “Smart Garage Hub” if the opener doesn’t show up).
  4. Select Home Bridge
  5. Click on the two checkboxes and select “I’m Ready”
  6. The device should show up under Discovered Devices, select it.
  7. At this point it should say connecting, then show successfully connected and then show a spinning connecting status in a Wi-Fi window. I found that it just spins on that forever so what I did was go back once to close out of that spinning dialog and then tap on the device again under Discovered Devices which then allowed me to select the wifi network and enter the password.
  8. After entering the wifi details it’ll spin for a bit and then you’ll get some kind of message like “couldn’t connect to server” or whatever. Ignore that, just make sure the light shows as green on the bridge now and then you’re good to proceed.
  9. Once the LED is green on the bridge it means it’s connected to wifi so the next step is to configure the garage door to connect back to the bridge and transfer the settings over to it. DO NOT do that through the app, the process will always fail or you just straight up won’t even be offered the option. Instead what you want to do is as follows…
  10. Go to your garage door opener and press and hold the black rectangular button between the two arrow buttons until the light on that rectangular button turns off, then press the yellow learn button 3 times. This will clear the wifi settings, which is what we want.
  11. Now, go to the homekit bridge and press the #1 button on the side of it twice, you should see all 3 colored LEDs light up on the front of it.
  12. Go back to the garage door opener and press the yellow learn button once.
  13. Wait for the LED on the homekit bridge to change back to green.
  14. At this point you can add your homekit bridge in Home Assistant using the Homekit Device integration. Note that Home Assistant should automatically detect the device and offer to set it up for you. You’ll need the code on the back of the bridge to pair it. Once paired you should see the garage door device and entities in Home Assistant.
  15. You can then add the garage door entity to a Home Assistant dashboard tile to get at the status and controls for it.

If for some reason you screw up and need to reset the homekit bridge you can do that by doing the following…

  1. Press and hold the Settings(gear) button for 8-10 seconds until the LED light goes flashing blue.
  2. Press and hold the Settings button a second time, until all LEDs quickly flash(amber, blue and green).
  3. Press and release the button #2 twice until all the LEDs turn on.
  4. Press and hold the #2 button until the LEDs turn off (approximately 6-8 seconds).
  5. Power cycle the unit

I also found that if I cleared the wifi settings on the opener and left it for too long without connecting it to the bridge it would go in to a weird state where it wouldn’t allow me to press the learn button to pair it with the bridge. I ended up having to run through the steps in the MyQ app to re-add it (plus sign, garage door opener, follow instructions, press the learn button on the door opener switch instead of on the opener itself, enter the wifi details when prompted, etc…) to re-add it to wifi. Only then would I be able to clear the wifi settings again and perform the pairing process. Just mentioning this in case someone runs in to this same issue while doing the setup. You want to be relatively quick doing setup steps 10 through 12 but you don’t need to rush, just make sure they are done within about 5 minutes.

Note that you’ll no longer be able to control the garage door through the MyQ app once this is setup, though you’ll still receive notifications through the app when the door opens/closes so the app can still be useful to keep on your phone, but for actually controlling the door and seeing it’s current state you’ll need to do that through home assistant.

Hope this helps anyone who is looking to set one of these MyQ homekit bridges up and already has a MyQ wifi enabled opener like mine.

It’s been working fine after setup and I even tried power cycling the homekit bridge to make sure it would retain the settings and continue working, didn’t have any problems at all after resetting it, continued working like a charm. The device itself is fine, the android MyQ software for setting it up and the setup instructions which come with it in the box are atrocious.

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Yeah I don’t get the thing about the random UA. While I don’t have first hand experience with Cloudflare bot protection, we have been working with a proprietary API for a customer at work that features custom API protection. A user agent that would not exactly match certain patterns defined and used by the customers own software would be an immediate red flag. Also the OP stated that this was an auth thing only and reducing the poll rate on the API after auth would not help. I find this a strange statement. It’s very likely that the API protection will keep monitoring API usage even after authentication. Hammering the API with polling all the time will most likely flag the IP as suspicious and may ban it at the next auth attempt.

I think that in general spam polling an API is never a good idea. This will absolutely show up on their radar and might actually be the reason they started looking into locking down the thing more.

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Using your message to respond to a few different points in this thread

-yes - user agent is probably worth changing, but right before this happened the home bridge add on had gone through and used mitm to get all of the data that the app uses and updated their version to use all of that exactly. User agent included. It does not fix the problem.

As well, cloudflare bot protection is only enabled on the auth, as your request is sent through cloudflare. After the auth request, your request go directly to their server.

I don’t think he meant that frequency wasn’t an issue at all, just that it’s not the current problem in this round whack-a-mole.

Repeated knocking at the door may make things worse, but at this point it fails from the very first knock (at least first time after over 5 days disabled).

Okay, I see.

Still, polling at high frequency can quickly get expensive on their server traffic and they will notice sooner or later. If their goal is managing server costs, then banning unauthorized high frequency polls is a low hanging fruit. That said, I fully admit I don’t know if you do actually poll at high frequency, but I know that some HA integrations default to insanely short polling intervals. So even if this is currently not the reason the CF BP blocks the auth, it won’t help in the future.

I meant the frequency of the data polling after auth, not the auth call rate itself. But as Lash-L clarified, the post-auth traffic is not routed through CF.

Polling frequency had already been addressed, and greatly reduced, in the last round of fixes.

Could it still be an issue going forward? Sure, if we ever get past the front door.

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Thanks for this. I’ll give it a shot.

First, thank you for the information, and the hard work you have put into it.

Let me come at this from a different angle. I have a chamberlain garage door opener with my-Q. I have a big button next to the door to my house. If and I stress if that button is only a momentary contact switch, couldn’t we wire in something like a zooz dry contact device or a zigbee/wifi equivalent and integrate it in that way? That way those of us that don’t want to replace our garage door openers are satisfied, and we have a zwave/zigbee/wifi local solution for opening/closing the garage door?

That will work if you have a security 1.0 opener. Most modern chamberlain openers are security 2.0 which means that they encrypt the data. theoretically you could use a switch bot if you want an easy solution or you could solder to a wireless garage door opener. But I’d recommend ratdgo as it really is a simple install and works well

This worked so flawlessly for so long! Now I’m so used to it popping up on my CarPlay to open the garage and I want it back! Thanks for all of your work on this! I have Alarm.com and that Homebridge works flawlessly. I’m trying to have my MyQ account linked, but it’s been a whole day since I’ve talked to them and I haven’t received a response. Hopefully, when I do, it will work as well as the MyQ and integration did. That is, if they can even figure out how to link the accounts – the representative seemed a little clueless, and there is no way to do it without going through Alarm.com.

(Ryan this is not targeting you in any way. The below is for general public.)

For everyone else who see this… DON’T DO IT.

  1. MyQ has discontinued this bridge more than one year ago (Fall 2022). It is no long a product, and who know when a push update will kill everything.
    EDIT 10/29: Based on this below, looks like we are starting to see the cracks. Some of the procedures to add/join the bridge are not applicable anymore, and while still possible (for now), users would already have to jump through (too many) hoops to get the bridge working.
  2. Let’s not put any more $$ to the pockets of this company.
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The Alarm.com integration integration on HACS supports garage doors, including those connected to Alarm.com via MyQ. (Full disclosure: I’m the maintainer.)

It looks like there are some compatibility issues with linking a MyQ unit to both the MyQ and Alarm.com apps simultaneously. In this thread, a support rep for Surety (an Alarm.com provider) says that dual linking isn’t possible, but one user says they were able to make it work. :man_shrugging:t2:

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