Thus in HA component it seems to be the type of the remote used to pair with the light bulb, not the bulb itself. Which is logical, I guess
If you have multiple devices paired on different groups (from 1 to 4) and want to send commands to those 4 group, then set a light with group id 0 in HA and send the command to that light instead of sending to HA group (made of 4 lights) as it will turn on/off all of them at once, not individually.
So I’m starting from scratch with my under cabinet lighting. I’m definitely going rgbw and considered ws2812 for fun. For rgbw I need this controller correct “rgbw (remote FUT096/B3, stripe FUT038); rgbw in Limitless”. What controller is recommended for ws2812?
I’m planning on using a Lutron Caseta lamp module for turning them on and off with a switch then from there we can change colors with our phone if we want. I’m assuming they will default as white when first turned on.
How would I go about building an emulator for the milights with a nodemcu? Is there a github you could point me to? Or even a tutorial for a new guy like me.
Mine defaulted to red when first turned on. But since then they default to whatever light you left them at.
I think FUT038 is RGBW controller, not just RGB. I assume it should work with RGB strip though. ws2812 Looks like RGB, I’m unsure if there are RBG only FUT controllers, as I only looked for RGBW, as I wanted to have a good bright white light.
Bulbs and led controllers turn to solid color when pairing is successful. Afterwards they are turning to the last used setting (in order to be used with “dumb” wall switches, although they’re not fully usable as such as it takes about 1.5 - 2 seconds to light up).
FUT038 and FUT044 are similar (RGBW) so a RGB + white (either cold or warm) led strip could be used; of the RGBW flavor are also FUT027 and FUT028 (however I think it is a different protocol compared to FUT038). FUT039 and FUT045 (probably LS2 also) are RGB+CCT although it seems that FUT045 is FUT089 remote compatible and FUT039 is compatible with FUT092.
We should start a wiki page to document the protocols (which are not always backward compatible), remotes (wall mounted and handheld), bulbs and led strips controllers as there are a lot of confusing, different options for rookies.
1.5-2 seconds to light up is common with lightstrips, as it takes some time for power adapter to ‘fire up’. Or maybe it just depends on DC adapter. I don’t think it’s such a huge problem, but yes it’s worth mentioning.
I do have a ‘dumb’ LED strip, which is connected directly to power adapter, and it takes 2 seconds for it to light up.
Yes, wiki page with all of that would help a lot. Even for non rookies, it’ll make it one less thing to keep in your head
as I already have Smartthings Hub V1 integrated with HomeAssistant (HassIO).
Can I control the light behaviour/color/brightness/temperaure with HA automation commands based on different event triggers.
Although this thread is now all inclined towards a DIY custom setup, however a newbie like myself would like to go with a ready made product as starters.
It should be noted that, regardless of whether it does work with Home Assistant, the controller is using wifi.
Wifi, according to Murphy’s Code of Laws (Article 745, Para. k, Section 9), will stop working exactly when you need it the most. Even (much) more expensive products like Philips Hue can have issues from time to time, but wifi is simply not meant for low latency, low power, always on IoT devices.
Limitless/MiLight controllers are quite nice, however iBox hub implementation in Home Assistant is a disaster, after each major update the component stops working and sometimes stops reacting after 2-3 consecutive commands. MQTT JSON light implementation of the emulator I mentioned above is way better (and cheaper too, as it doesn’t require an iBox per each 4 lights/group of lights).
i made an esp milight hub.
its quite easy and way cheaper then the hubs from milight, and you only need 1.
i even made an appdaemon app to make it possible to add lights without restarting home assistant.
milight hubs are not so expensive actually. And if you account time you spend on learning+making your own hub it can be worth just buying one, if you only need 1-2 hubs.
However I must agree that if you need more than just a couple of them it’s worth investing time into making your own hub. Once you learn how to do it it’s gonna be copy paste for new hubs (not to mention that, as far as I know, there’s no limit on connected devices with esp hub)
its not that much time to learn. (if you know a little about esp, maybe 30 mins, if you dont know about it 1 to 2 hours)
i have 1 that is way more powerfull then the bought hubs. i works over 3 floors up and down with very high ceilings and very thick walls.
and i can connect as many lights as i want.
i have bought 1 when i started using it, its now lying somewhere being useless.
Requirement for addressable led strip would take out of the options Zigbee/Z-wave (as these work with analog led strips; otherwise, an analog led strip with a Gledopto controller it would be cheapest and most feature rich https://www.amazon.com/Zigbee-Controller-Compatible-Lightify-Control/dp/B075SZZS49 as it can be controlled through a Philips Hue bridge).
Digital led strip mostly require DIY products based on Arduino/ESP32/ESP8266 or RaspberryPi and some of the compatible digital strips would be WS2812b, WS2811, WS2813.
Although it is not all comprehensive and not maintained, have a look at the implementations included in the HA light integration (the bottom of the page):
Otherwise, my personal recommendation would be to go with https://hyperion-project.org/ and a RaspberryPi (v3 if wifi is a must and cannot use lan cable for which a v2 would suffice; it could use a Zero too but if you need the USB connection on the Rpi, then Zero doesn’t have one full sized); of the compatible strips I would choose APA102. It also require a logic level converter (from the 3.3V used by the Rpi to 5V used by the led strip) but it works very well with HA and doesn’t loses any commands.
Additionally, I mentioned USB connection above as, in conjunction with several components, not quite expensive (USB grabber, a hdmi splitter, hdmi to rca) can build a perfectly compatible Ambilight controller which works with any hdmi source connected to the tv (Xbox One/PS4/HTPC/Chromecast) and any content (is not limited to non-DRM such as Netflix).