No worries, I have been meaning to do it as this thread has grown more into a general support/questions thread on my devices, more general than my original semi-marketing post to announce the router.
I’m have not paid much attention to z-wave, I had a few devices and then went all in with zigbee. I still use the z-wave side of the Nortek Husbzb-1 for the few z-wave devices I have.
What kind of things are you looking to accomplish? I can make some device recomendations as well.
Thanks!
I have 4 total z-wave devices right now:
All of them I had in SmartThings and could voice control with Alexa. Got them working in Home Assistant with z-wave2mqtt. I like the architecture Bill described of abstracting the “network” from the management layer. I don’t HAVE to pull it out - I’m somewhat insulated at present - hardware goes down I should be able to move or restore the VM (HA inside Proxmox) and map the USB through and off to the races… but his description of keeping the network separate got me thinking.
Honestly with the wide variety of zigbee devices it looks like only items that handle AC current directly are Zwave (I can’t find a zigbee light switch… yet) and the plugs I had for simple on off (one of them a Smartthings original Kickstarter edition wall plug which can’t be recognized by ZHA) that were 45$ 10 years ago now have 13$ replacements. Might be easier just to buy some new hardware.
@tube0013 If ever looking to branch out into devices… Was trying to find a simple Input based Zigbee device the other day. Literally just want a device that can read contacts from a couple devices and report if the inputs are open or closed. I could do it easily with ESPHome and some esp boards, but realized very few of the Zigbee players out there have anything like this.
look into Xbee modules or the custom fw for the cc2531 from pvto I think.
Howdy - still struggling to unlock bootloader (or at least I think that’s what’s happening) on the router.
I’ve tried UART on pi, usb-ttl no brand adpater, adafruit usb uart adapter, tried across pi, ubuntu and windows boxes with no joy, still getting the dreaded ERROR: Timeout waiting for ACK/NACK after 'Synch (0x55 0x55)'.
Can i just triple check steps?
python ./cc2538-bsl.py -p COM5 -b 9600 -ewv .\CC1352P2_CC2652P_launchpad_router_20210128.hex
No specific baud settings required, default 50000 okay?
Thanks again.
That’s my procedure I use to initially flash and then reflash after testing.
Make sure you don’t have tx and rx swapped too, RX on the USB to serial should go to the tx pin and tx to the RX pin.
Is the button depressing? Did it possible come lose? (Have never seen this, trying to cover all bases.
Thank you! I had tx to tx, rx to rx - noob error 
Thanks very much, I’m past the ack/nack step now.
I mess this up all the time. Check out my efr32 GitHub page 
Just wanted to add after some testing the compiled router firmware with 20db has been stable for me, and does give give a significant lqi boost (looking at z2m device page).
Hey man I just ordered two routers and want to add a coordinator. I replied to you confirmation email. I assume that email is monitored? [email protected]. Thanks.
You won’t be disappointed!
Thanks. Hopefully this will sort the holes I have since removing the Tuya ones you and I talked about
Yup I just replied.
Hey Guys
Wow received the routers and coordinator. They look great so thanks Tubes.
Only one problem I cannot either of the routers to connect to my ZHA network. I have even tried to use the BSL button re reset at per the instructions. Have tried putting it really close to my Conbee II stick and tried adding them using various other devices. I have debug mode configured.
Ideas? What logs would be helpful?
Sure post some logs on pastebin or paste.Ubuntu.com and I’ll take a look in the morning.
Usually they join the network straight away, and I actually test join each one to make sure they work before shipping. Biggest tip is to make sure ZHA is permitting joins first before plugging in/resetting.
Got mine all setup and running today.
Had a couple minor issues but @tube0013 was quick to walk me through them.
Had to re-flash the coordinator to get it connected to my network. Also had to move some connections around between my switches because my us-16-xg switch wouldn’t connect to it at 100mbps so I had to put it onto my 24 port switch. The cables I was trying to power the routers with had a “base” that was too wide for the etched out area in the case so I wasn’t getting a good connection for powering it up. Swapped to some “skinny” cables and all was good. None of this is a big deal and didn’t detract from the experience at all.
First impression is that everything paired a hell of a lot quicker than it did with the conbeeII stick. Like I’m talking almost instant. Looking at the initial LQI’s were shocking. The conbee stick has a bug in it where all the LQI’s were showing 220+. So when I first looked and was seeing some devices down under 20 it was a mini heart attack. A few hours in I’m seeing the LQI values start to climb.
Long term we’ll see how it goes. I may actually start liking zigbee if this fixes all the issues I’ve had with it in the past.
Hey Mike
I imagine you had re re-pair everything moving from your Conbee II?
Did this and away we went. I was sure I tried this earlier! Thanks for your quick assistance BTW.
Is there a chance there could be a light in the routers to tell you what’s going on?
There are no LEDs on the routers. I have pads on the boards for them but did not add them as the current fw does not utilize them.