I bought a Tuya 60W Ceiling Light because it was only $70 and I ignored the reviews where many people had it fail on them. Sure enough, after a few months the light would no longer connect to WiFi and was constantly flashing off and on. I swapped out the proprietary CB3S Tuya WiFi module for an ESP-12 and am sharing my ESPHome config file here, hopefully it will help some of you.
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I’m converting some similar Tuya WB3S and other chip based devices to local control using this very good work, link below. Like your work, so far, you still need to open the device and solder to the chips leads. But perhaps a little less physical work that swapping the chip. There is a nice (and growing) set of home automation devices in the Tuya universe. It is nice to be able to use them and totally cut them off from the internet. Thanks for your write up, good hunting!
Oh that’s awesome! I searched for alternate firmware for the Tuya module and couldn’t find it.
Right now I’m having an issue with ESPHome where the light will flash one time every 15-20 min if my HA server isn’t running?
I seem to remember that ‘flash’ activity to be a feature of ESPHome, which I think can be disabled.
I have 3 of the first light below, and one each of the second and third Tuya lights converted.
All converted to this local tasmota clone image without any problems. I am testing them now with them connected to Home Assistant via MQTT. All are working great so far, but testing will continue. I am still refreshing my Tasmota skills and also this package is an incomplete Tasmota clone. However, these folks are improving it rapidly. I have found that you may need to supply stronger 3.3 volts than a USB/UART can provide so get the flashing done. Use a breadboard 3.3 volt supply, just don’t try the route of flashing with the Tuya device powered from the mains. I see some folks try this and wow that is scary!
There is also a ESPHome clone package and a Platform IO package of these Tuya firmware replacements available. I think each is based on common work, but each is moving forward in different paths. Not sure which will be the ‘best’.
Good hunting!
Actually if the api (or wifi) isn’t connected and by default it’s 15 minute indeed for the planned reboot. 
Check the reboot_timeout on the wifi 
and native api docs 
and set them both to 
if you want to disable the reboots in case wifi or api isn’t connected 
old thread I know, but I have a cpl of those taloya lights.
did you have to jumper/solder to flash them?
Hi, not sure if we are talking about same units. That said I will share following, hoping it is the one you are talking about or close. These have been working great for me with OpenBeken, very happy. I don’t remember for sure, but I do not think I was able to do the software only Tuya CloudCutter method (the first 2 I did with the physical flash, cause I did not fully grok CloudCutter at the time, I did a third and I think tried Cloudcutter, but had to do the physical flash, all that said, I now always try the CloudCutter route first. I have a dedicated Raspberry Pi for that purpose). All that blab… below are my basic notes and some pictures. I still have the firmware version from 2022 that I initially flashed them with running with Home Assistant, have not found need to upgrade. Though, that would probably be a good idea at some point… note my need for a stronger 3.3 volt power source for these units. I’m not sure if they are power hogs, or if the USB to TTL Serial adapter I was using was just punky. I’ve found it is a good idea to take photos of the disassembly steps, inside and connections. I’ve reinvented wheel too many times… And, for sure, make very sure the device has NO mains power connection while you are doing a physical flashing!
Hope this helps.
Good hunting!
Taloya Ceiling Light Smart, WiFi, Compatible with Google, 15.8 Inch Modern Dimmable Flush Mount LED Light Fixture for Living Room Office Kitchen, 28W RGBW
WBS3
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081QGS8CK
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P9 PWM 1 Red
P24 PWM 2 Green
P26 PWM 3 Blue
P8 PWM 4 Cool White
P6 PWM 5 Warm White
Flag 0
Flag 7
Flag 10
Flag 11
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Had to power the circuit board with external 3.3 volt power supply, used one of the cheap bread board power supplies that output 3.3 volts, connection ground between breadboard power supply and usb usart, power to board was from bread board power supply, tx and rx from board was to uart usb device, used the sparkfun FDTI 3.3 v mini usb unit to greymini
the CEN reset did not work, just power cycling the breadboard 3.3 got it to connect to the usart usb
Build on Sep 13 2022 07:56:30 version 1.12.55
Online for 36 minutes and 34 seconds
Device MAC: D8:1F:F2:18:A3:D6
Short name: ceiling_light_00, Chipset BK7231T
https://github.com/openshwprojects/OpenBK7231T_App
