Ended up getting another 10 channel for downstairs. No i use tuya integration and that works perfectly fine
Hi there,
I also working on an underfloor heating solution.
Instead of Ikea plugs I will use Shelly Plus 2PMs.
The generic thermostat entity is clear to me.
But need I (in my case) 6 entities in the config.yaml or can I create them in an additional yaml for a better overview?
I will use the generic thermostats with an automation.
Is it possible to create an automation with an input_boolean switch on and off?
if on then run gen.therm.?
which condition I need to choose for this automation?
This PWM feature looks really nice / what I was looking for!
Do you have any remarks after using it for a winter?
Would you be able to share a list of hardware youâve combined (temp sensors / thermostat?, thermal âmotorsâ, additional items, âŠ)?
thanks!
Hi Lectere,
That was a very helpful write-up. Iâm researching exactly a setup like yours for our house that is being newly built. I especially donât want to have to put a thermostat in every room: a simple temperature sensor should be enough to then allow Home Assistant to act as a virtual thermostat. I also briefly looked at a Honeywell HCC100 solution, but it still requires its own thermostats as input devices.
Your solution is very close to what I would like. The only thing Iâm missing in the description of your solution is how you process the signal from the heat pump when it goes into cooling or heating mode. What interface do you use for this? And what what if HA misses this signal? Can you simply read the current state of the heat pump with Home Assistant?
Lastly, I am also very curious about âlessons learnedâ now that you are a year along with this setup.
Thanks, my retrospect;
- First of all, very happy with the end result!, works well. Never once did a switch fail. Never once did the heatpump didnât go on.
- Everything works automatically, I donât have to do anything
- Home assistant is, because of this, very important, again for me a basic setup; no hypervisor, no reverse proxy, HAOS on hardware with UPS.
- The Sonoff Snzb-02d is very nice, I and my wife like the display on the device. And battery replacement doesnât require the device to be added again.
- I combined all the zones on the ground floor, and I almost only heat there
- I never heat the sleeping room, only cooling
- I need to make something that will open the valves only when they been closed for longer than a month.
- placement of the Sonoff snzb-02d is important, once my wife place a candle under one⊠And my son took the one from the living room to his roomâŠ
Iâve shared the automation to start the heatpump in the original post when one of the groups goes open, and I use the outside temp to determine itâs heating or cooling, above 22 degrees means coolingâŠ
(I use ESPAltherma)
actions:
- if:
- condition: numeric_state
entity_id: sensor.openweathermap_temperature
above: 22
then:
- device_id: heatpump
domain: select
entity_id: mode_select
type: select_option
option: Cooling
else:
- device_id: heatpump
domain: select
entity_id: mode_select
type: select_option
option: Heating
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Nice post! It looks much like what we did for our own house. However, I would recommend not to rely on mechanical relays and wifi or other wireless connections to make the heating of your house comfortable. We have developed our own piece of hardware, that can also connect to (wired) 1-wire temperature sensors like the ds18b20. It contains solids state relays, and all IO is wired to make it maximal reliable.
You might also want to check out the approaches for a PID thermostat; it can prevent your heating system from overshoot, saving you more energy.
I just found this topic, and it was exactly what I was looking for. I have an existing underfloor zone controlled heating system. There are 12 loops divided over 5 zones. I really want to create an additional zone by splitting up one zone with two loops into two zones. Unfortunately, my current zone controller doesnât support an additional zone and the propriety thermostats are wired solutions which makes it much much harder.
My current actuators are 24V, so I have been looking into Kliplinc ESP8266 WiFi 16 Channel Relay Module ESP-12F Development Board Power Supply, 16-Way Relay Module, Power Mode 24V : Amazon.nl: Business, Industry & Science. But how do I power this? I have some ESP32 / ESP8266, but they use a USB connector. And they come in 5V, 12V and 24V, iâm assuming this means to power the actuators and not for powering the board, right?
I already have ordered a new 24V actuator (and to be sure an 230V too). So hopefully you guys can help me with this, so I can finally provide my 4-year-old with a better temperature in his room.
I just ordered the following:
Weâll see if it works.
There is a screw thermal at the bottom right of the first picture, that looks like the power for the board.
Yes I have seen that, but I donât see any adapters suggested. I have a bunch of esp modules powered by microusb, this one doesnât have a usb connector. Does that mean I still am able to use a usb power plug but with the cables stripped or should I use an entirety different adapter.
I have the same question. I understand that @Lectere is using ON/OFF valves. But since I only have underfloor heating and a lot of inertia, I would like to have the ability to have some valves partially open. I think it is more energy efficient to always have a (minor) flow of water at a lower temperature.
Does anyone have adjustable valves (PWM?)? Any experience that can be shared?
I doubt it be more energy efficient for floor heating. With a heat pump everything stands and falls with your COP. The pump/waterflow only takes account for very very little energy. Plus you also always have a bypass valve/pressure differential. So I donât know if thatâs very wiseâŠ
Hi,
Yesterday I have succesfully integrated my 15 yo gasboiler to HA using a OT gateway. So Iâm eager to start with the next step: zone control. 
@Lectere, I noticed you are using the Möhlenhoff Drive Alpha-5 VA80 as thermo-electric actuator. Is there any specific reason why you went for this brand?
Additionally, I have found like hundreds of variants on their website. Iâm inclined to go for the 230V, NC. But how do I know which stroke I need?
The only thing I know is that it needs to fit on this:
But I donât have any specifications whatsoever. Do I have to measure it myself? And how?
And besides the stroke, Möhlenhoff offers a lot of other variations (âend switchâ, â: Proportional with valve path recognitionâ, âPulse-Proportionalâ,âŠ). #AnalysisParalysisâŠ
Thanks for your help!
Stroke length is more or less standard as far as I know.
If you use a tool of some kind then you can push down the pin.
Looking at the picture, I canât think it can be more than 10 mm or so.
Nope, it was avaible, somewhat of a good reputation, and not to expensive.
After a (rather inacurrate) measurement using tape measure, itâs 5mm. Iâm unable to press the pin fully down (only halfway).
Ok, thanks. I see they are now 16,90⏠on Amazon. Maybe Iâll just buy one to check, before I buy more (I also need 18 in total).
I remember buying one, and it was ok. Afterwards I bough the rest. Iâve also ordered 18 in total, for 12,70 per piece. I did some quick research, and it was a pretty good deal. As I understand, they are much more reliable than the mechanic ones.
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I bet you can find noname versions for about $10
Hi,
Yes, I even found one that is only 6âŹ. But I donât have any information on quality or power consumption. So Iâm a bit reluctant.
Really cool project,
I think I have done a similar thing using different brand components.
for instance instead of the 10 channel valve (which I came across) I use 2X 2 sonoff 4 channel switches.
I control my hot water temp based on the outside temp. and to prevent throttling of my heatpump(which is midea, not daikin) I open one or more extra valves when the outlet temp approaches a certain treshold.
But now I want to reduce the defrost cycles as well to increase the life time of the heatpump.
with some foggy cold weather my heatpump defrosts a lot
especially when opening an additional attic zone because I needed to work there the next day.
Did you somehow apply anything to improve this? Iâm thinking about just closing a zone if defrosting happens more then once an hour, or decrease the outlet temp for a while.
what I can see is that my heatpump never reaches the target temperature because of all the defrosting
for me this is a sign that something should be changed, but I canât think of a good solution without just stop heating one zone.