Wack-a-bee

I launched HA 3 weeks ago (HAOS on MiniPC via Proxmox, Sonoff Zigbee stick, Zigbee2mqtt) and have been playing Zigbee wack-a-mole since. Most of my devices are Iris 3320-L contact sensors and Iris 3326-L motion sensors. They all are 5+ years old which they spent paired with SmartThings hub and worked flawlessly. The only maintenance needed was replacing batteries every 2-3 years.

Very different story on HA. Once a day or so a random sensor would become unavailable. In most cases taking battery out for 10 seconds and putting it back fixes it. When it doesn’t, nothing helps except firing up old SmartThings hub, pairing the sensor with it, and unpairing. That somehow cleanses the sensor and it connects to HA again.

Sometimes the issue is failure to update open/closed status. It would say it’s closed despite it being open or vice versa. While reporting temperature and battery status without an issue. Taking the battery out and putting it back in fixes it. Until the next sensor.

There is no rhyme or reason which devices will stop working. The proximity to the zigbee stick or LQI seem to have no impact. I also have several GE zigbee lights and they do the same. But turning the power off/on always fixes them.

Looking for dead sensors and reinserting the battery to bring them back to live became a nightly chore. It’s starting to get old. How can I get the Zigbee network reliability in par with what I had with SmartThings?

Do you have the Sonoff stick on an extension cable? USB ports have been proven to cause interference with ZigBee.

1 Like

Which Sonoff stick?

Is z2m on the same channel as smarthings was?

Have all the router devices been moved to z2m?

Thanks. I’m using this dongle: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09KXTCMSC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1. It’s not on extension; I ordered one now.

I’m on channel 11 now. I don’t know what channel SmartThings was on, to tell the truth I had no idea Zigbee had channels at all back then.

I did not have any router devices with SmartThings, besides lights, which weren’t always on so don’t know if they count. The SmartThings hub and now a mini-PC with HAOS are right in the center of a rather small house and LQI is reasonable everywhere as is. But a few weeks ago I did add a Zigbee plug which now provides routing which brought LQIs even higher, but had no impact on this wack-a-mole.

The interference theory is interesting but wouldn’t these facts contradict it:

  • A device works 100% and then it stops completely; comes back to 100% after battery is reinserted. Wouldn’t interference make it sometimes work, sometimes not?
  • In cases where sensor stops reporting open/close but keeps reporting temperature and battery - would’t all messages go on the same channel? Why would reinserting the battery fix it?
  • By now probably 2/3 of devices had this happened once, and only one of them twice. Wouldn’t there be more of repeat offenders, probably ones with low LQI?

The ZBDongle-P you linked to is what I have. Check the firmware version. I’ve had recent purchases with old firmware. Compare and update if need with the latest release at Releases · Koenkk/Z-Stack-firmware (github.com).

Extension is definitely the lowest hanging fruit.

If on zigbee channel 11 then avoid Wifi Channel 1, move Wifi to channels 6 or 11.

There is hope, my zigbee is stable using the same dongle.

Coordinator type: zStack3x0
Coordinator revision: 20210708

Looks like it’s old. I don’t see any button in HA to update it. Googling results in countless youtube videos and instructions of doing this outside on HA, presumably a different computer. Would you kindly point me to the best approach for this particular dongle?

Wifi is on Auto; analyzer shows 5ghz on 157 and 2.4ghz on 8.

When I did mine:

  1. Download FlashProgrammer2. You’ll have to sign-up for an account but it’s free.
  2. Download the firmware from GitHub.
  3. Instructions are available from SONOFF directly. Just scroll down to the section for ZBDongle-P.

I just opted to take it apart and use the boot button. I didn’t have python setup so using the button was the easier route.

I use the cc2538-bsl script, much easier than the Windows nonsense.

But…

Zigstar has an add-on to do it all in HA. Once setup it makes future updates prety much point and click:

Just tested below steps:

  1. Take a z2m or ZHA adapter backup as appropriate, and an HA backup to be safe.
  2. Stop Zigbee2mqtt addon/Disable ZHA as appropriate
  3. Add repo to addon store
  4. Refresh Page
  5. Install ZigStar TI CC2652P FW Flasher addon
  6. Edit addon configuration tab:
    . select appropriate adapter
    . enter “0” for network address (probably a bug - shouldn’t be necessary)
    . enable “Network device/USB Device” toggle
    . enable “Sonoff USB” toggle
    . DISABLE “Enable Bootloader mode for Network Device” toggle
    . save configuration
  7. Start ZigStar TI CC2652P FW Flasher Addon
  8. Monitor ZigStar TI CC2652P FW Flasher Log Tab for status (click “Refresh” every second or so). Time to complete should be around 10-20 seconds. Sample log below.
  9. Restart Zigbee2mqtt or enable ZHA as appropriate.
Sample Successful Log

s6-rc: info: service s6rc-oneshot-runner: starting
s6-rc: info: service s6rc-oneshot-runner successfully started
s6-rc: info: service fix-attrs: starting
s6-rc: info: service fix-attrs successfully started
s6-rc: info: service legacy-cont-init: starting
s6-rc: info: service legacy-cont-init successfully started
s6-rc: info: service banner: starting

Add-on: ZigStar TI CC2652P FW Flasher
ZigStar TI CC2652P firmware flasher add-on

Add-on version: 0.2.6
You are running the latest version of this add-on.
System: Home Assistant OS 10.4 (aarch64 / raspberrypi4-64)
Home Assistant Core: 2023.9.3
Home Assistant Supervisor: 2023.10.0

Please, share the above information when looking for help
or support in, e.g., GitHub, forums or the Discord chat.

s6-rc: info: service banner successfully started
s6-rc: info: service cc2652-flasher: starting
[17:49:56] INFO: Starting CC2652P flasher with Sonoff /dev/ttyUSB1
Setting filename to /root/firmware.hex
sonoff
Opening port /dev/ttyUSB1, baud 500000
Reading data from /root/firmware.hex
Your firmware looks like an Intel Hex file
Connecting to target…
pg_rev = 3, protocols = f, wafer_id = 0xbb41
CC135x PG2.0 (7x7mm): 352KB Flash, 20KB SRAM, CCFG.BL_CONFIG at 0x00057FD8
Primary IEEE Address: 00:12:4B:00:26:B8:82:2F
Performing mass erase
Erasing all main bank flash sectors
Erase done
Writing 360448 bytes starting at address 0x00000000
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Verifying by comparing CRC32 calculations.
Verified (match: 0xe83aa727)
[17:50:06] INFO: cc2652-flasher-up script exited with code 0
s6-rc: info: service cc2652-flasher successfully started
s6-rc: info: service legacy-services: starting
s6-rc: info: service legacy-services successfully started
s6-rc: info: service legacy-services: stopping
s6-rc: info: service legacy-services successfully stopped
s6-rc: info: service cc2652-flasher: stopping
s6-rc: info: service cc2652-flasher successfully stopped
s6-rc: info: service banner: stopping
s6-rc: info: service banner successfully stopped
s6-rc: info: service legacy-cont-init: stopping
s6-rc: info: service legacy-cont-init successfully stopped
s6-rc: info: service fix-attrs: stopping
s6-rc: info: service fix-attrs successfully stopped
s6-rc: info: service s6rc-oneshot-runner: stopping
s6-rc: info: service s6rc-oneshot-runner successfully stopped

1 Like

Exactly the same problem here, using SkyConnect on a 2m USB lead. Nothing in the logs - ZHA seems to be unaware that there is a problem. All my devices are Philips Hue and worked flawlessly with the Hue bridge.

The devices failing are always motion sensors - my solution is to wake them up with a short press on the reset button, then they re-pair with the co-ordinator.

Tell me about it. The only way to tell they’re not working is to walk around phone in hand watching for the sensors that don’t react.

There’s something similar reported on Github where the feeling seems to be that problems started with the May update.

jerrm,

Your procedure worked and now i’m on Coordinator revision 20230507. Thanks!

After the procedure Zigbee2MQTT announced that it was “configuring” 3 devices. No idea how it picked the 3 out of the list and what changed once it “configured” them. Will be watching for failures now. Hopefully this fixes an issue. If not, the USB extension is next thing I’ll try.

2 Likes

I lost a few devices since updating the Coordinator revision. Then I got an extension cord for the dongle. I brought back all zigbee devices to live and left for a 12 day vacation.

I lost a Zigbee device almost every day. Towards the end of vacation my house had no viable security system left. I said to myself - enough of this, I gave HA way more than a reasonable try, it’s time to go back to SmartThings and use Zigbee via HA’s SmartThings integration.

And then the Z-Wave JS UI upgrade comes out. I installed it and I lost entire Z-Wave network. Not a single Z-Wave device available. At that point only Bluetooth devices continued to work.

I got home and rebooted the PC running HAOS. To my disbelief, 100% of Zigbee and 100% of Z-Wave devices came back.

I don’t know what to think anymore. Maybe instead of going around the house each evening reinserting the batteries I should be rebooting HAOS PC? Should I somehow do this via an automation triggered by a device becoming unavailable? This is becoming tragicomical.

That’s odd for sure. I haven’t restarted HA in like two weeks and everything is churning along nicely. I’m sure there are others that have gone longer.

It seems to me that your problem is the low signal from the dongle P. I was having a lot of problems in a certain room in the house, I placed a router close to that room and changed the position of the coordinator. my problems are over. But even so, I’m thinking about exchanging the P dongle for the E.

But isn’t Sonoff P-dongle the most supported/recommended option?

A few of you suggested signal issues. I must have some fundamental flaws in my understanding how zigbee works. Wouldn’t signal issues be:

  1. More prominent for devices further away, with lower LQI?
  2. Not fixable by removing/reinserting battery?
  3. Not fixable by rebooting the HAOS PC?
  4. Sometimes reconnect on their own?
  5. Be intermittent?

All devices are affected equally in my case, from those a few ft away to most distant. Reinserting the battery almost always fixes instantly. Rebooting HAOS PC fixes it, but only if I unplug the power/plug back in. Proxmox node reboot doesn’t help. And once a device goes unavailable, it never comes back on it’s own.

One device became unavailable since my post yesterday. Restarting HAOS did nothing. I rebooted the node via Proxmox and now the entity itself is gone! The device just vanished from the Zigbee2MQTT dashboard as well. How is that even possible? I’ll unplug/plug back in the PC when I’m home in the evening but it’s getting weirder and weirder.

Oh geez…we may have all overlooked something. How many devices do you have in total? Do you still only have the one router device?

How is the signal from the devices? Send a screenshot of the z2m.

Also send the z2m log.

From my little experience, the P has a very low signal, even when the devices are close. A friend switched from P to E and there’s a big difference.

Possibly because TI and silabs calculate LQI different

I don’t know about the lqi calculation of each chip, but at least it solved the problems of disconnected devices that he had.

Can you give me a link with this information?

Something has changed. My nightly zigbee wack-a-mole used to be checking which devices turned “unavailable” and reinserting the batteries. I lost 2 more devices since previous post and both are completely gone from zigbee2mqtt, and the dashboards show them as “entity unavailable”.

Till now I never had a zigbee entity disappear. They used to become unavailable and stayed that way unless I manually deleted them. Has anyone observed this change? Could it be due to the recent core updates? How can I get back to the previous behavior?

And as I was looking at zigbe2mqtt UI suddenly it announced “Sauna sensor has left the network”! How? Why? Devices stayed unavailable for over a week when I was on vacation and never left the network. How do I stop this?