What are the recommended energy monitoring smart plugs for HA?

We are proposing the Theengs Plug, energy monitoring, and BLE gateway, back in stock in August:

  1. Powerful BLE Scanner and Decoder
  2. Presence Detection Capabilities
  3. Data Transmission to MQTT Broker
  4. Compatible with numerous BLE Sensors and Tracker Devices
  5. YAML free integration thanks to MQTT auto-discovery
  6. Customizable Settings
  7. Smart plug remote control
  8. Vigilant Power Usage Tracking
  9. Persistent plug state
  10. Effortless Over the Air update
  11. On-demand BLE scan
  12. Open-source firmware

yearh… I was so stupid to buy 10 Ledvance wifi+ plugs, only to realize, 3 months later when I set up HA, they actually belong in a bin… useless product…
…just a comment if anyone out there want to buy Ledvance plugs… Don’t do it !!

they only work with their own app…

Hi
What about ZigBee smart plugs?
Like the blitz wolf be shp15?

Maybe read through this topic

I have shp-15 as well, one does not show any energy measurements, the others work well.

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No good…
Any suggestions for reliable ones possibly ZigBee?
Thanks

I have the same model but different version (mine shows plug_1 instead of plug_3).

Read here for a mini review, warts & all.

Thanks @ShadowFist
I need the eu version do you know if there is the equivalent of your model?
I found these that are lvgems…
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EJa0Wpj

On the model number it says Wh025 and this point to the tuya TS011F…

Sorry mate, can’t help much with sourcing any plugs. My recommendation lies strictly with the ones I purchased, and I’d hesitate to recommend any given the dozens of variants for the plug_1 (check the linked github issue for an idea).

Then again, the model you linked to is a 16A plug, so chances are it’s the same chip.
Personally, I’d buy one and test it out - if it doesn’t work properly, I’d leave it plugged in somewhere as a zigbee router, and maybe connect some non-critical device to it.
Worst case scenario, leave it that way and drop a comment in the issue until it’s fixed.

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What about these athome plugs, esp home compatible?
They are available with homekit or thasmota. Is it difficult to flash esphome on them?

I currently have about 12 Shelly Plus S’ (WiFi) in use, and have recently bought a couple of Nous A1Z plugs (Zigbee) as (a) these can handle 16A and thus 3680W vs the 2500 W of the Shellies and (b) I’ve started to buy Zigbee gear bit by bit, and the Zigbee smart plugs act as routers.

The Nous plugs have acted very well, and I am currently pondering on selling off the Shellies and replacing them with the Nous’.

TLDR: Both Shelly Plug S (WiFi) and Nous A1Z are good products in my experience.

I’m looking at monitoring an appliance but I don’t every want it turned off.
Is there a pure monitoring device (no switch ability) or can one of the outlet switches mentioned here be modified so they can’t be turned off? (solder across the relay pins)

A decent number of Zigbee plugs come with a child-lock feature.

Setting this toggle to on before disabling the switch entity in HA will ensure that your appliance cannot be turned off remotely.

If you’re looking for disabling the hardware switch, though, your options are somewhat more limited. Either open up the plug and break the button contacts, or else buy a clamp style power monitor.

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Shelly has modules for behind an outlet with power monitoring and no relay.

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For example:

https://www.shelly.com/en-au/products/shop/shelly-pm-mini-gen-3

If you run Tasmota firmware, you can assign what the button on the switch does, if anything.

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I have multiple Refoss P1 plugs (which seem to be a Tasmota flashed generic branded device, i.e. LSC Smart Connect plug). Multiple have died because of current spikes, for example when the washing machine and the dryer were powered up at the same time. My searches have only resulted in finding relay-based devices, while I am really looking for a CT-based solution, which doesn’t have to switch the load.

Just in case you checked that the total load of the two machines (e.g. 2000W + 3000W) doesn’t overload your plug which probably is rated for a maximum of 16A (due to schuko type plug) which leads to a maximum of 3680W @ 230V. :thinking:

I would very much expect this if you overload your plugs north of 16 Ampere :fire:

I also had two offline, one on the oven, the other on the dish machine.
When they don’t come up, press Power for 40s, then you need a plug with power button to enable/unable the power 6 times then it goes on again. After that you need to calibrate the device with this command:
ADCParam1 2, 4000,80000,4250,1
then restart and it should work fine.

Do you have washing machine and dryer on the same plug? That’s a risk as orange-assistant already showed. You need at least two plugs and when you have just one connection you need an electrictian to add a second power line.

Personal hint:
Electro devices have a 2 year warranty. Even when flashable and tinkerable it may happen that a device just goes broken. In this case take your warranty and ask for a new device. When the warranty runs off you can’t change it anymore…this helps nobody.
In our tinker world a vendor can’t allow to release broken devices. Then they need to improve quality standards in testing the production cycle.

I have TS011F_plug_1 devices, some as outlets and some as smart plugs. I never had any problems with them so far. They all have 16 amps max load.
I must say that two smart plugs did burned down due to high load. One of them was TS011F_plug_1 smart plug and another one was aquara SP-EUC01 smart plug that is rated to 10 amps max load. The problem was that dishwasher and oven was connected to same dumb outlet. When running at the same time max load will way be higher than 16 amps causing aqura and tuya smart plug to burn down. I replaced dumb outlet and saw that it was a bit black inside with wires also being black on the end. I cut part of the wire that was burned and installed new dumb outlet.
We used this setup for years a no one had a clue that we had overload on one outlet.
I installed smart outlet for oven. Sometimes when oven is running it spikes too high load but outlet is turned off immediately. Maybe something is wrong with oven electrical wire. Still monitoring situation…

I think many people do this having essentially only one wall socket putting a extension cord and do something (dangerous) like this :point_down:

image

Thinking each of the plug could still handle 16A :fire: (which is wrong, all together can handle 16A max because of the socket type :warning:)

Other things people might fail for is to use a “double”-type of smart plug and in total also hook up loads greater than specifified (for example washer & dryer) :grimacing:

image