Sorry mate, can’t help much with sourcing any plugs. My recommendation lies strictly with the ones I purchased, and I’d hesitate to recommend any given the dozens of variants for the plug_1 (check the linked github issue for an idea).
Then again, the model you linked to is a 16A plug, so chances are it’s the same chip.
Personally, I’d buy one and test it out - if it doesn’t work properly, I’d leave it plugged in somewhere as a zigbee router, and maybe connect some non-critical device to it.
Worst case scenario, leave it that way and drop a comment in the issue until it’s fixed.
I currently have about 12 Shelly Plus S’ (WiFi) in use, and have recently bought a couple of Nous A1Z plugs (Zigbee) as (a) these can handle 16A and thus 3680W vs the 2500 W of the Shellies and (b) I’ve started to buy Zigbee gear bit by bit, and the Zigbee smart plugs act as routers.
The Nous plugs have acted very well, and I am currently pondering on selling off the Shellies and replacing them with the Nous’.
TLDR: Both Shelly Plug S (WiFi) and Nous A1Z are good products in my experience.
I’m looking at monitoring an appliance but I don’t every want it turned off.
Is there a pure monitoring device (no switch ability) or can one of the outlet switches mentioned here be modified so they can’t be turned off? (solder across the relay pins)
A decent number of Zigbee plugs come with a child-lock feature.
Setting this toggle to on before disabling the switch entity in HA will ensure that your appliance cannot be turned off remotely.
If you’re looking for disabling the hardware switch, though, your options are somewhat more limited. Either open up the plug and break the button contacts, or else buy a clamp style power monitor.
I have multiple Refoss P1 plugs (which seem to be a Tasmota flashed generic branded device, i.e. LSC Smart Connect plug). Multiple have died because of current spikes, for example when the washing machine and the dryer were powered up at the same time. My searches have only resulted in finding relay-based devices, while I am really looking for a CT-based solution, which doesn’t have to switch the load.
Just in case you checked that the total load of the two machines (e.g. 2000W + 3000W) doesn’t overload your plug which probably is rated for a maximum of 16A (due to schuko type plug) which leads to a maximum of 3680W @ 230V.
I would very much expect this if you overload your plugs north of 16 Ampere
I also had two offline, one on the oven, the other on the dish machine.
When they don’t come up, press Power for 40s, then you need a plug with power button to enable/unable the power 6 times then it goes on again. After that you need to calibrate the device with this command:
ADCParam1 2, 4000,80000,4250,1
then restart and it should work fine.
Do you have washing machine and dryer on the same plug? That’s a risk as orange-assistant already showed. You need at least two plugs and when you have just one connection you need an electrictian to add a second power line.
Personal hint:
Electro devices have a 2 year warranty. Even when flashable and tinkerable it may happen that a device just goes broken. In this case take your warranty and ask for a new device. When the warranty runs off you can’t change it anymore…this helps nobody.
In our tinker world a vendor can’t allow to release broken devices. Then they need to improve quality standards in testing the production cycle.
I have TS011F_plug_1 devices, some as outlets and some as smart plugs. I never had any problems with them so far. They all have 16 amps max load.
I must say that two smart plugs did burned down due to high load. One of them was TS011F_plug_1 smart plug and another one was aquara SP-EUC01 smart plug that is rated to 10 amps max load. The problem was that dishwasher and oven was connected to same dumb outlet. When running at the same time max load will way be higher than 16 amps causing aqura and tuya smart plug to burn down. I replaced dumb outlet and saw that it was a bit black inside with wires also being black on the end. I cut part of the wire that was burned and installed new dumb outlet.
We used this setup for years a no one had a clue that we had overload on one outlet.
I installed smart outlet for oven. Sometimes when oven is running it spikes too high load but outlet is turned off immediately. Maybe something is wrong with oven electrical wire. Still monitoring situation…
I think many people do this having essentially only one wall socket putting a extension cord and do something (dangerous) like this
Thinking each of the plug could still handle 16A (which is wrong, all together can handle 16A max because of the socket type )
Other things people might fail for is to use a “double”-type of smart plug and in total also hook up loads greater than specifified (for example washer & dryer)
Well because people doesn’t know or think about it. I know I didn’t. Only when I installed smart devices that can monitor electricity an start to get data back to home assistant I became aware of the issue. And then I started to look into.
But the electricians are the first one that should point this out to people and give them explanation and advice. And this is something that they, as I know, doesnt do.
You can also buy an extension cord that is rated on some load, usually on 16 amps, but there is also a lot of extension cords without any load protection that are freely sold and very often used in households.
This is when people need to get an electrician out to install a higher amp breaker for the circuit that needs it (and validate the wires can handle it) and install a 2,3 or 4 gang socket where needed.
The load protection is done at the breaker side and should match or be just under the load the wires gauge in the walls for that circuit can handle and not exceed it, power boards just have a surge protection system (some are one time use and are supposed to be replaced if they don’t trip from a detected surge).
Yes I know, but this is something that I truly doesnt get quite. My breakers are 20 amps because this is the load that wires can handle for some period of time. But I don’t know how long. Breaker never tripped and this was something that was and is confusing to me. But smart plugs and outlet do cut electricity immediately when load exceed 16 amps. And you can tripped them off with automation even on lower load.
And I’m not sure if my board have surge protection system. Probably I should consider replacing it although it was installed some 13 - 14 years ago.
If its tripping at a lower load then its listed wrong. aka they sold it as 16A when in actual fact its 10A.
i.e I have OZSmartplugs V2’s that are interally and listing in ZHA the same as some generic ones I have as well but the main difference is that the generic ones are sold as 16A where as the V2’s are 10A so I keep my smart plug limits to the V2’s and not the generic ones to be on the safe side.
In the example I provided (schuko type) it’s the specification of the socket which are limited to 16A, it does not matter if the wire is 2.5mm² or even 16mm² and could handle 10 times the amperage because it always the weakest part in the link which is the limit - in this case the socket/plug
Our socket plugs here in Australia are rated to 10A, which is why I go by the OZ V2’s rating for smart plug amps not the generic ones as stated previous too:
That said the breakers in my home are 16A for the circuits to prevent overheating and tripping under continuous load at/near that 10A max from what I have learned from the electrician that installed my relay downstairs. (which takes 6s of 3680W or more to break said circuit).
)
which is the limit - in this case the socket/plug 