I have the sky connect, but not the Hub yet. I was trying to avoid having a bunch of hubs but maybe it’s worth it.
Thanks!
Yeah right now I’m playing with basic stuff like plants lights on a schedule, and the curtains. I’ve ordered some more lights and a motion sensor to go one step further.
But I work in the Solar industry and for me the main draw is control and automation over energy using devices to optimize the use of solar energy. So this journey will definitely be diving much deeper lol 
1 Like
Not really needed. But the response is much faster in my case. Also has a IR blaster built-in if you need that (wish it was RF for the ceiling fan) . I have them set up in the switchbot app to automatically open and close at set times using the quiet drift mode, so I rarely have to use the home assistant integration at all. I do have an automation to keep them open if they try to close while the back door is open.
I ordered another two curtains, and the three pack of blind tilts while they are on sale. Should be here tomorrow.
1 Like
Added a sonoff zigbee outlet to my cable modem so I can automate power cycling it to resolve the occasional connectivity issues.
Still have to write the automation…
I did that one a long time ago, Comcast/Xfinity SUCKS! I wrote a series of automations where if it’s down for 5 minutes it starts power cycling every 5 minutes for an hour, then if it’s still down power cycle ever 15 minutes for 4 hours, if still down then power cycle every 30 minutes in perpetuity until up, then notifies me via TTS and HA notifications. It’s worked really well.
I went through several iterations of this, if you are too tight with time you end up causing your own infinite loop of power cycling because you have to give it enough time to come up, register, the ping to hit something, etc. Through all of this it also shows me a count of how many power cycles so far and I track the internet sensor in recorder so I can escalate tech support issues rapidly with evidence to back it up.
Yeah, I just wrote the first iteration. It’ll be a work in progress to get it right.
Lucky for me, I must be on a better node here than my last house. It’s really only gone down twice in the 2.5 years we’ve lived here.
Last night happened to be one of those times, which brought it to the forefront of my mind since I had to go from the master suite on the second floor all the way down to the basement at like 1AM. LOL
At least this way if the automation doesn’t fix it, I can control the outlet, and thus the reboots, from the comfort of my bed at 0:dark-thirty. LOL
1 Like
I do this with my Google Max speakers. House got hit by lightning a while back and they’ve been losing connection often since despite a new mesh router system and everything else being reliable.
Added z-wave outlets on them. Automation is pretty simple. If device state changes to unavailable, turn off outlet. Wait 5 seconds, turn on outlet.
Been working great. You could do the same with any wifi device you have. If it goes offline, reboot the router.
I wish I could do the same with any wifi device… That is not the case. My thermostat is wifi, but is not 110v… I’m thinking maybe a shelly relay on the c-wire? Dunno yet.
Added a contact sensor to my basement door and wrote an automation to alert me if it’s closed for 4 hours, or if it’s closed when I leave the house.
Fixed my high temp alarm to exclude the temperatures of some sensors I added over the past few days.
Fixed my deepstack server because it stopped processing new alerts. Found 292k files in the temp directory. I guess running nonstop for 7 months with tons of alerts will do that. Need to write a scheduled task or something to clean that junk out of there.
Made some more dashboard modifications to display battery states for newly added devices, and to display the status of the basement door, as well as added read-only switch statuses for the Zooz water main valve and the cable modem outlet. Would hate to accidentally turn either of those off when I just meant to see the status of them. Lol
1 Like
Wired up another modded (WLED) Govee LED stripe (this time 12V instead of 24V) from which I first had to cut some defective LEDs out, resolder it and could then use it.
The way I do this usually is I take a pre-made (off-the-shelf) strip light kit, cut out the control unit that it came with, connect + and - from the PSU to the Stripe directly, connect - from the PSU to my ESP32 and wire the Data line from the LEDs to the ESP via a levelshifter.
It looks a bit messy but it’s in a corner and I don’t bother about how the controller looks like.
The bottom strip is the new 12V one, the top one is the older 24V strip. I created segments in WLED to be able to switch these two independently.
Maybe this would work. I think c wires are 24v. You could split it to power the relay and to the comm port of the relay and then out to the thermostat. Looks good in theory . These zigbee relays are pretty cheap. Not sure where you could mount it though.
Red being the c-wire of course.
1 Like
Fun stuff!
Last night I tested out my new diguno and dig2go controllers and built a case for the uno. The 12v8a uno will go behind my living room TV and the 5v3a dig2go will go behind my dual monitors in my office.
Also installed another set of switchbot curtains in the bedroom and two Switchbot blind tilts in the dining room. I don’t know why I love these window automations so much, but I do! Kids think they’re awesome. Wife is impartial .
Picked up some screek presence sensors and tested them out. Not sure where I’ll use them yet. Also grabbed some screek bluetooth proxies since they are cheap and installed those. Pretty cool, home assistant immediately found some Bluetooth devices that were previously out of range.
It isn’t the prettiest, but you’ll never see it anyway. Also added some vent holes to it.
How easy are those bluetooth proxies to work with? I have a couple door locks that offer local control via BT but are out of range of my HA server… I’d love to get them locally controlled, for obvious reasons… Been looking into BT proxies, but nothing has struck my fancy yet (in all honesty, I haven’t been looking THAT hard…)
Now I’m off to add a Roborock S8 Pro Ultra. Wife’s Christmas present…
1 Like
So easy. Plug them in usb on pc, flash from esphome site, then plug them in for good where you want them.
I thought there was going to be more to it, but esphome/home assistant does all the rest in the background.
I only got the screek ones because they have a nice case and I was already ordering from there. You can use a cheap basic esp board if you wanted. Ships from China, takes about a week. The screek guys are pretty active on these forums.
1 Like
So, I got the roborock added, but only barely so. I can now see all the stuff about it - what it’s doing (cleaning vs charging), battery level, time spent cleaning, etc - but I can figure out how to make it actually do anything.
I suppose that’s a project for another day though. I see some people have been able to import the map, too. Then they add furniture & whatnot. Looks time consuming… Lol
1 Like
Cool to see that some people can design/build these controllers better than me…
What length of LEDs are you powering with that?
My 24V Strip is 10m,
My 12V recycled Strip is around 5m as I had to cut out some borked pixels that made the whole stripe uncontrollable after them (originally 5m, was installed and removed twice before it got ripped into pieces and I found it in our “electronic leftovers” box, soldered it together and wired it up)
1 Like
Today I fitted LED strips around the plinths of the cupboards in my bathroom.
Can’t wait for it to go dark so I can see the full effect.
3 Likes
For the diguno 12v8a I installed a 5m strip behind a 75" tv. At 100% warm white brightness, it’s only pulling around 5a max. It’ll be warm white pretty much all the time except for notification effects.
The 5v3a dig2go isn’t able to power the 5m strip very well, which is fine because I’ll be trimming it to fit behind my computer monitors and probably won’t need to be very bright. Just some ambient light and some effects for misc notifications. Worst case, I’ll upgrade the controller or power inject at the end.
1 Like