1… i have tried with the am2302 temperature… i also tried the dallas themp prob but returned it
2… i do have 1 of the wifi relay board i posted in the other topic i had…
3… i have tried nothing plugged in and still not enough power to power its frustrating…i keep swaping cables etc its hit and miss as now sometimes the wemos will boot without anything just the cable other times it does doesn and thats with the 3 i have
i find the esp12e can run off the usb cables and the computer but some cant run off the bricks i cant remember i have to re go over them all i didnt write them down what was working what wasnt in all the cables. i just know doesnt seem to get enough power… the blue light flashes on teh wemos…
ill have to re test them with nothing on them to get u the info u need
cant get them to work now any of them except the 1 footer and a cell phone charger cable thats like 2 3 feet … the 6 and longer do not work on any power block or 2.1amp ports or the computer…
and thats just the computer board
u almost have to wire these to the VINN and run a 5amp power supply to them it feels with thicker wires then the usb cables
I don’t do feet but I run a wemos d1 with some sensors (bme280, ds18b20, bh1750) over a distance of a about 5 meters without problems. I use a “old” telephone cable (2 pairs solid wire) for this and work with some caps on the esp side just to be sure. Also I inject power directly to the pins and don’t use the micro usb socket to avoid unnecessary resistance.
You should know the limits (resistance ) of your usb cable and of the micro usb connector/socket if you gonna use this. In short don’t expect random usb cables with micro usb connector to work on anything longer than 2 meters. Random cheap cables with thin stranded aluminum might work better for underfloor heating than for power delivery.
I have never had any issues with this.
I recently used an old charger, probably 1 A or less given how old it is and an old 3 m noname USB cable with no issues.
Power delivery has never been a priority in my projects, it has always just worked.
Even the projects with 500 mAh Chinese chargers.
I never owned a usb cable with micro usb connector longer than 2 meters. But this was a “quality” one shipped together with a tablet and 2(.4?)A Charger.
Still the physical problems remain:
Cables have always resistance (so always will introduce voltage drop on the receiver side)
Connectors have always resistance (micro usb connectors for example are rated for a max of 1.8A by specification)
So a combination of a bad (&dangerous?) usb charger and a bad usb cable can cause significant problems already with low length cables.
Another thing to consider is the LDO on the wemos d1 mini (clone?) used. If I remember right the original wemos (now lolin) used a LDO with a drop out voltage around 4.5V. The possibility that clones use worst/cheaper parts which drop out already at 4.7 or 4.8V might easily explain the behauvior the thread opener experiences
A USB power supply will hardly ever be overloaded by an ESP. The problem is usually of a different kind:
The current that is drawn by ESPs and their surrounding components can change extremely fast. Together with the impedance of longer cables this can lead to brief undervoltages. These in turn may result in brown-outs of the microcontroller. Andreas Spiess – already mentioned by @orange-assistant – has made another great video just about this topic: #91 How to properly power the ESP8266 modules - YouTube
I actually have extensive experience with this kind of problem because I have many ESPs spread all over my house and most of them are fed by one single central 5 V power supply in the basement. From there the ESPs are supplied through spare wires in a house-wide bus system. In the past these long and rather thin wires often led to problems with my ESPs. I solved them all by placing 47µF Tantalum capacitors between VCC (3.3 V) and GND directly on the ESP PCBs. I also increased the supply voltage to 5.2 Volts to avoid falling below 4.5 V at the ESP end.
It is quite important to use Tantalum capacitors, as these are much faster and better suited to smooth out extremely short voltage drops. A replacement option can be low ESR Aluminum capacitors but for best results I still recommend Tantalum.
ill have to watch that video… i did talk to guy that sells the relayboard with the wemos d1… and he told me to buy 1000uf tantalium canister ones… and to put it across the gnd and 5vin it didnt work… i didnt try the 3.3 i cant even get like 3 foot cables to work
so what wire do u run in your house… and what kinda power supply do u use?
for now i ordered these… and then maybe i can get 16 gauge wire or 20
but be thicker then usb
I use a KNX bus cable that is installed throughout my house. It has two spare wires that I use for the 5 Volt supply of all my ESPs. The wires in the cable are not very thick: 0.8 mm² (we don’t use gauge in Europe but I think it’s 18 gauge)
With that cabling I use one single high quality Meanwell HDR rail power supply to feed the whole house without any problems. The wires to the ESPs are tens of meters long. I have adjusted the Meanwell to 5.3 Volts though.
You should definitely place the capacitors on the 3.3 Volt side as the 5 to 3.3 Volt regulators have a limited speed to adjust for sudden current changes. I never needed more than 47uF tantalum. In some rare cases I have placed a second 47uF on the 5 Volt side just to make sure. But that’s all.
This being said, I have no large loads (i.e. LED strips) or switched impedances (i.e. relays) connected to my ESPs. This would definitely require a beefier supply and more stabilization. The largest loads I have on my ESPs are SGP30 VOC sensors which draw about 50 mA.
Tip: If you feed anything else from the same supply, try to do it from the 5 Volt side to keep the 3.3 Volt side of the ESPs as stable as possible.
Tip 2: Usually one of the first signs of an insufficient or unstable power supply are stalls during OTA update. I think this is because the ESP drains more power when flashing and there is also more WiFi activity, which heavily increases the power consumption of the ESP.
but I run a wemos d1 with some sensors (bme280, ds18b20, bh1750) over a distance of a about 5 meters without problems. I use a “old” telephone 
cable (2 pairs solid wire) for this and work with some caps on the esp side just to be sure. Also I inject power directly to the pins and don’t use the micro usb socket to avoid unnecessary resistance.
) of your usb cable and of the micro usb connector/socket if you gonna use this. In short don’t expect random usb cables with micro usb connector to work on anything longer than 2 meters. Random cheap cables with thin stranded aluminum might work better for underfloor heating 
than for power delivery.
by specification)