Consider having an IT cabinet, so there is good noise cancellation without losing ventilation and power plugs.
The layout of wires have already been discussed and the did mention using APs, which means not a combined router/AP. The split of the two functions means you can upgrade them separately and they can be placed where it makes sense for their specific function.
If you are pulling cables in tubes, so they can be changed easily later, then go for what you like now.
If you are making it harder to change them later, then go as high as possible and at least category 6, preferable category 7.
When mounting wall drop boxes for the network wires, then think about what the area is used for.
If it is in an area with little human traffic, like inside a cabinet, then mount them as you like, but if they are in the open, like where table legs, office chairs, human movement, vacuum cleaners and the like can hit them, then mount them, so the connectors are flush with the wall.
Also make sure that there are extra wire behind the wall drop boxes, so you have something to work with later if the box gets destroyed and you might risk loss some length on the wire from the destruction.
If you can afford it, then run shielded wires for network. This goes especially for cables pulls that gets close to the standards max. length.
For electrical wiring make sure the boxes behind wall switches are deep enough, so you can mount shellys or whatever the future might provide. The deeper the better.
If you want fire alarms, then consider the option for a link wire for these and maybe also a mains wire.
Mains wired fire alarms with battery backups are just nicer, especially if you want to monitor them wirelessly.
Consider already now places for mounting presence devices, so you can install mains power and maybe also network wires for them. Main power and network connectors are also easier to hide when it is thought out from the beginning, like making a hidden compartment in a wall for this.