The question is if it is possible to disable their internal regulation. I would like to control them by HA exclusively so they will never open or close the valve unless they are told to do so by HA.
As I see in the integration yes it is. You can turn it off, put it in automatic, manual mode and there are some other modes.
Well, so these would be perfect if battery life is good. I will try to find some more information.
Thanks!
Well battery life is something that does concern me. I replaced one trv with new batteries in a few months when heating wasn’t working. Maybe those devices need some long lasting batteries.
I own two of these TRVs.
The battery is not a problem, it will last at least one year, but of course depend on how many command are you sending and how many times they will open and close. They are nicely build, material are good quality and the design is pretty nice. Very quiet compared to other models.
I control them using zigbee2mqtt and I can identify 3 major problems:
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they do not send the status to z2m unless you send a command. so if you use them on auto mode, they will not update the temperature or valve position unless you send a command
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the temperature step is 1 degree, so you cannot set 22.5 but only 22 or 23.
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there is not way to manually control the valve position (eg: close 50%), but this is a problem for most of the TRVs on the market.
I also have an older version of Moes zigbee TRV (Tuya ZigBee3.0 Smart Radiator Actuator Programmable Thermostatic Radiator Valve Temperature Controller Voice Control via Alexa|Building Automation| - AliExpress ), but unfortunately they are not so high quality as the latest model. The plastic is cheap and I already replaced the caps for 3 of them and also the mount adaptors are poor quality and they will drop off if you accidentally easily hit them.
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You can now step temperature by 0.5 degrees.
My motivation for buying those was to control temperature in individual rooms or part in a part of the house on the fly during winter.
I have homemaric valves, but those are not ZigBee or WiFi.
What I have is the same battery issue, so I have acquired a few USB Stepdown regulators, so I can draw 3.3v and then I have cut a few pieces of round wood sticks just a bit shorter than a battery and added a screw in one end.
The USB Stepdown is then plugged into an old USB charger and the output from it is wired to two if the wood sticks directly connected to the screw, which then works as batteries.
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Don’t get fooled by the manual mode. I bought some TRV valves from AliExpress (Tuya Smart Zigbee Radiator ) https://a.aliexpress.com/_EHsrF4L but they don’t operate well with z2m.
Cons:
- The TRV always changes to auto mode when changing a setting. This falls back to the scheduled temperatures in the valve. So you need to change it back to manual and then change the temp again
- Batteries last 2 weeks
- The temp sensor doesn’t report correctly. And using the offsets makes it useless as it doesn’t report the temp. As if it gets stuck.
- They force my HASS to reboot very often.
- …
In other words, a pain in the xxx.
I have those trv.
Temp is reported correctly. I tested this with temp sensor.
The problem is that you don’t have same temp in every part of the room.
Try it by moving temp sensor around room.
Battery last for a month or two in programming mode. Manual tend to last much longer.
These with a wire to two pieces of round wood with a screw in one end will end the battery issues. 
https://m.fr.aliexpress.com/item/32866337186.html?gatewayAdapt=gloPc2fraMsite
That one is definitely overpriced. You can find similar 10 times cheaper.
It’s for 18 pieces
Yea I didn’t see that, but also who would need that?
I do.
I hate batteries, so all wall thermometers and TRVs are on mains through this, so is some of the usually battery powered christmas decorations.
My electric candles could not be powered this way, but those I have as a fun project made into Qi wireless charged candles and the RF remotes they came with is programmed into my Sonoff RF Bridge 433. 
@GaRv3 Hi, have you managed to find valves as you want? Have you tried Moes as @ddaniel suggested? Or maybe Aqara valves?
I’m also interested in valves with full control from HA, but I’m not sure is it indeed so important and must have feature.
P.S: As far as I understand Danfoss Ally allows all this (Danfoss Ally eTRV entities and Radiator valves), but are 2-3x time expensive compered to others, e.g. ~ 110 eu for 1 item
Hello, i do use the Danfoss Ally and i am very satisfied with them. I know that the price is high but they are fully compatible with HA and i was able to put many automations in place. Currently i am able to control them based on the Weather, window state, location etc etc.
The internal temperature sensor is showing 0.3 degrees higher than a temperature sensor i have on the other side of the room which i consider pretty accurate taking into consideration that it’s next to the radiator.
You can find a list of related automations here. Please start from the bottom as these automations are all linked and related.
In general, i am very satisfied with the Danfoss. The battery life is great. In fact, from the beginning of February 2022 which i bought them, i haven’t replaced batteries and they show to have 57% remaining battery.
The cost has increased significantly after the energy crisis. I bought mine, end of January 2022 for 64 Euros a piece. I assume though that the cost would be increasing on other brands as well.
Hope this helps
Kind Regards
M
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What did you go for in the end? I’ve been using ‘Moes’ TRVs for about 6 months and they are ok. I use node-red to set them to manual mode and set them to either 5c or 35c to simulate on/off.
I’ve tried the Wiser TRVs but they didn’t seem to open the valve on the radiator fully, even after multiple resets and recalibrations.
Why do you want them to open fully?
Going from fully closed to fully open drains the battery and will probably also generate more noise from the TRVs than necessary.
If you are on a communal/shared heating system, then you will pay for what goes into the radiator, but you do probably not get reimbursed by what goes out, so it is best to let the heat dissipate fully in the radiator, which takes time, so slower flows are needed.
I have my own gas boiler fitted. The flow to each radiator is governed by auto-balancing valve bodies with TRV attached - you set the valve body to the correct manufacturer-depicted setting required to get 20c difference in temperature between flow and return pipes (based on radiator kW output rating), then the radiator will always get the correct flow to maintain optimum heat transfer.
The TRVs are then just on/off valves.
Ok, that makes sense, but still a bit hard on the batteries though.