what I understood from the electrician is that we have basically two types of switches:
so called UNIPOLAR: only the Line is disconnected when the switch is in OFF position
the BIPOLAR: both Line and Neutral are disconnected when the switch is in OFF position.
But I think that all the zwave devices that go behind switches (Fibaro and yours) are the UNIPOLAR type: they disconnect only the Line.
So a DOUBLE RELAY, just means that controls two regular swiches (and for both it disconnects only the Line (when both OFF the two LIne are OFF), not the neutral, which is probably always on …???
You could likely achieve what you need by using a simple Zwave switch to control a relay that completely disconnects the heavy load. Check with your electrician.
I’m guessing that at 220V forgetting to turn off the circuit breaker before you work on something gives you a very sharp reminder when you accidentally drag your fingers across the hot wire. Remind me never to do wiring in Europe.
So far, Z-Wave installation has been trivially simple, with only one exception. That one was an Aeotec Multisensor that needed a factor reset before I could pair it. The only complications I see ahead are the physical install issues of putting stuff in walls, embedded in ceilings etc. Some of that will require a visit from an electrician so I’ve got a neutral wire for all the light switches.
In terms of reliability, so far (touch wood) it’s been rock solid. There are some quite obvious points where either the device doesn’t receive the message, or the controller doesn’t receive the confirmation. That sorts itself out as soon as the controller retries the request. The only time it goes wrong is when I mess about with the configuration of HA and break it
I run into that occasionally, where Alexa won’t do what I ask her even though she says ok. I haven’t tracked it down yet, but it happens more often when there is a heavy demand on my local internet connection (one son playing video games, my wife downloading a movie, me trying to download another movie all on a 6MB DSL connection). Since Alexa is web based, high bandwidth competition will cause her problems.
I know all this can be frustrating. We all are definitely on the cutting edge of this technology. We as a group are all emailing vendors asking about new products, and asking for access to API’s (I just emailed iRobot again over the weekend).
Just stick with it and enjoy it. It’s really rewarding for me when I get things to work after fighting with them for a couple of days.
I haven’t played with google home. With Alexa check your alexa smart home configuration on the web page and make sure all the objects that you want to control are showing up in there. I’ve had Alexa find the same device both on HA and on wink and then it’s hard to get it to do the command sometimes, but I usually get the more than one device type error when that happens.
Actually, in the end it is current that kills you, not voltage. (Electrostatic shock can be 10.000 volts, but will not kill you).
Looking at power consumption you’ll need more current when at 110 volts than at 220 volts. I am not an expert, but I think it’s better to have the pleasure of being shocked by 220 than 110 volts
100% agreed. I’ve been ranting about this exact issue from the start. The “smart home” vendors really push the “smart” bulbs hard but they really have a very limited use. Physical switched lamps only for areas like behind the couch and areas that you don’t normally adjust. They definitely have no place as overhead replacement bulbs. That is where smart switches should be used.
but how is with zwave phisical switches position.
I mean if I turn ON a light with the manual switch (which has behind a zwave switch) when I turn OFF with Alexa/HASS or zwave software, then the phisical switch will have an opposite position from the previous state, correct?
Lamps are still a challenge, no matter how they are plumbed, if someone turns of the switch on the lamp, you are stuck, but at somepoint, (hopefully) they learn.
In my great room (tv room), I have a zwave wall switch tied to a pair of spots in the ceiling. Not enough light, and only one usefull wall switch.
I also have three floor lamps, that I have put on zwave outlets. A simple automation slaved these together, such that turning on the wall switch also turns on the floor lamps. Some days my beautifil spouse turns of the table lamp out of habit… we will get there.
Im in the process of setting up a zwave installation in my home, and from what i have experienced so far its fantastic to work with
in my build i have
Aeotec Z-Wave Plug-In Smart Switch 6
Remotec Z-Wave Scene Master Remote
Fibaro Z-Wave Single Switch 2
Fibaro Z-Wave Double Switch 2
Aeotec Z-Wave USB Z-Stick
Im in Australia so we are 240v 50hz
i have kept the original light switches and did not have to change to the push button type ( big plus for using the fibaro)
the way it works is when you change the position of the switch it turns the light on/off ( so the normal down is always on is no longer the fact)
eg: say you light is on and the switch is in the down position you move the light switch to up and the light goes off and in HA the light shows off.
i personally dont think smart bulbs are the way to go, im not sure what the electrical legislation is in your part of the word but if you are able to preform electrical works in your own home i would differently go with putting in switches
i have an up coming build series with my installation that hopefully help you out
yes that is true, but if you think about it, it’s no different than a 3way switch you might have in your house already. If you turn the light on from the switch by the front door and turn it off at the switch by the bedroom door, your switches are now upside down (sort of). Same thing applies here, you just can’t see the second switch. That’s why I like switching the switches with the GE smart switches that don’t actually toggle, they are just a momentary contact and stay in the center.
Why put an item between the plug and the appliances, and not put the smart switch zwave BEHIND the wall “regular” plug" and hence turn it into a smart plug?
Remind me never to do wiring in Europe.
