Finally, they look like EU ones. They also name tuya app which makes the possibility quite high that a esp8266 is inside. Just the price is a bit high… but I need to tell I’m tempted…
The other possibility way to go nowaday is to keep the old/normal/present switches and just add a shelly or any other brand with a switch input behind the wall mounted switch.
But for new installations integrated is always good!
If someone could share findings with the device @tyjtyj linked - would be great!
I searched hard the other day and came to the conclusion that zemismart does not have physical wall mounted switches with eu type. Please proof me wrong with a link 
This page say it can be flash to tasmota via tuya convert
Hope that give you some confident.
I think you are right, sorry for the noise.
Do you know (or someone else) by accident how this device looks from the inside? A the important pins available to flash custom firmware (as the bug tuya convert uses is fixed nowadays more and more… even with ota!)
Picture would be also fine for sure 
EDIT - sorry, just realised that you were asking about another switch. Ignore this post
Yes, I posted some pics more than a year ago, when I installed a few of these. They are still working well.
PS I flashed mine using SonOTA
@PianSom - Can you provide a link for the flash method you used? I just got a three gang version of the Zemismart and can’t discover the device when going thru the OTA flash process. I was following the Tuya convert process with no success.
What’s wrong with touch?
@PianSom - TY, going to try it tonight. Do you have a link to a tutorial on the soldering option if OTA doesn’t work by any chance 
@scp028 - well, I guess that rather depends on the hardware you are using!
FWIW I have found that I can usually get away without soldering just by holding pins in place for the short period that the first flash takes. Helps to have a friend handy to push keyboard buttons
Touch is not intuitive or blind usable. It lacks basic physical feedback and it’s a productivity killer. In my studies you will need an average of minimum double the time doing something with touch wall switch than you will need with a ordinary latching or non latching wall switch with haptic feedback.
So in general it’s just the opposite of smart. 
Not to be insensitive, but why would a blind person need a light switch?
I can see why it would slow one down because, for example on one of my touch switches, I hesitate to determine if the switch did what I want. With a tactile switch I don’t have to slow down as I exit a room to know that I toggled the switch. But you gave me an idea. Since I made the switch using an ESP8266-01, I have one more GPIO that could go to a haptic buzzer, like in the cell phone.
Maybe it is a fan switch, or a heater switch, or a waste disposal switch.
So I bought some DS102 switches (no touch, with physical buttons, EU) that @tyjtyj already mentioned above. Unfortunately, tuya-convert appears not to work, so I will have to try and flash them the old-fashioned-way. Here are some pictures:
As you can see, there is a small board on top with the ESP8266 (TYWE3S) on it. GND and 3.3V are easily accessible from the socket on the bottom. TX and RX are on the bottom-right of the chip on the pic above. No sockets, but should be easy enough to wire.
I will report back on my success (hopefully) when I find the time.
Tight! Thank’s a lot for sharing your findings! 
Please provide more pictures when/while you flashed it! 
No surprises when flashing. Because I have no idea how to safely solder stuff directly on the chip, I just attached the 3V/GND on the back and held the TX/RX in place using my fingers. Worked without problems:
Here is another guide to flashing these, if you want to see more pictures: https://www.hackster.io/michael_zanetti/smartlife-tuya-wifi-light-switch-with-tasmota-and-nymea-09a7a6
Any finally, this is my esphome config for the 1-gang version: https://gist.github.com/tribut/24da88affbf0d57a6ad143edcf6b53d0
Have fun!
Smart solder free flashing! 
How did you enter the flash mode of the esp chip - by accident using the button in the middle?
Ah sorry - I forgot. No, the button is connected to GPIO3. You have to connect GPIO0 manually to ground while plugging in (it’s the fifth pin from the right on the same side as RX/TX - for images see Sonoff Wiki or Hackster.io).
I used the same method: Just hold a jumper wire in place. You don’t need to keep it there, a few seconds during startup is enough.
You also have a esphome sketch for the 3-gang version by accident?
I wonder how they managed to add 3 relays, 3 buttons and 3 leds (in all it would need 9 gpios in my world)? Is there any limitation regarding the leds (forced binded to a relay for example?). My plans is to have leds independent from the relays but rather show the state from a other device from home assistant (and also to control it with the push button…). Any thoughts on this?
The 1-gang version (I can see in your sketch) has one gpio for each relay, button and led 
For 2-gang I can see here (SmartLife/Tuya WiFi light switch with Tasmota and nymea - Hackster.io) that relays, buttons and leds are also separated:
GPIO0 -> None (0)
GPIO1 -> Led2i (57)
GPIO2 -> None (0)
GPIO3 -> Button1 (17)
GPIO4 -> Relay2 (22)
GPIO5 -> Button2 (18)
GPIO12 -> None(0)
GPIO13 -> Relay1 (21)
GPIO14 -> Led1i (56)
GPIO15 -> None (0)
GPIO16 -> None (0)
Just need conformation that it’s the same for 3-gang @tribut maybe? 