And this is the wiring schema that applies to my situation (except that I’ll only be using one out of the 3 gangs)
One of the gangs needs to be wired in 2way configuration but I have some difficulties in understanding on how to do this despite having spent a lot of time researching.
I have successfully installed these devices in 3gang 1way or 3gang without physical switches throughout my home, but the 2way installation method eludes me so was hoping someone could chime in.
Actual situation:
Australian wiring
I’ll only be using 1 gang out of the 3 and it needs to be wired for 2way, the other 2 gangs are unused at present
Zigbee switch is installed at the top of the stairs where I have a an always live active/hot and Neutral
I am currently running this with L-in and N-in connected so that the device gets powered.
I have then run the L1-out to the Common on the physical switch upstairs.
The physical switches up and downstairs have ‘switch wiring’ (No/Nc - X1/X2) between them
In the downstairs physical switch the common then continues to the lights
I have not connected the S1 and COM wires on the zigbee module yet. So currently the behaviour is that it runs as though it’s not connected to the physical switch. Meaning: I can turn the lights on/off via the zigbee module as long as one of the physical switches has the light turned on. I can also turn on/off the lights via either the upstairs or downstairs physical switch but then the status of the zigbee switch is not updated of course as it has no way of knowing without S1 and COM connected.
So what am I missing?? How do I connect S1 and COM correctly?
I know that L1-Out should typically be run directly to the light, but this is not possible in my situation as the cable leading to the light is in the dowstairs switch which does not contain a live Active/Hot so there is no way to power the zigbee device from there. If I install the zigbee switch downstairs with the Common as the source for L-in, then the zigbee switch will be turned off completely each time the lights get turned off.
In the U.S., for some reason not explained anywhere, this is described as a three-way switch.
This switch may not be the solution that you think it is. If you connect (through a switch) S1 to COM, then L1 is hot. S2-COM turns on L2, S3-COM turns on L3.
There is only one way to connect two switches to control one output:
In my wiring with a single physical switch elsewhere in the house, I’ve always wired S1 and COM to the physical switch and that works great.
The problem for this particular 2way (as we call it ) install is that I’ve had to use the L1-Out to the Common input on the physical switch upstairs. I’m assuming that the S1/COM wires are not intended to carry any load so if I hook them up to the physical switch where there is a live Active already in play, that’s not going to go well.
The downstairs physical switch is a 2gang and the second gang operates 6 downlights. They used to be high Wattage halogens that I converted to low wattage LED so I’ve just hooked the zigbee switch up to that Active circuit as well to now also provide juice for the LED staircase lights.
Was even able to get the 2way going as well:
Connected the COM together with the first switch wire to the Common terminal in the physical toggle mech and the S1 together with the second switch wire to the X1 terminal in the mech. Upstairs just put the first switch wire in the Common terrminal and second one in the X1 same as downstairs and now the switches operate the lights through the zigbee switch as intended from both the top of the stairs as well as downstairs!
Thx for your intervention @stevemann! Something that hadn’t been clear to me til lthis point was that the S!/S2/S3/COM wires were low voltage. It’s so simple in retrospect that I’m embarassed I didn’t realise that sooner
Oops sorry, screenshotted the wrong switch. I have the zigbee version, not the Wifi one.
Both zigbee and wifi versions are Aubess branded and can be found quite readily on Aliexpress.
Doubt they list the chip on the description though
) install is that I’ve had to use the L1-Out to the Common input on the physical switch upstairs. I’m assuming that the S1/COM wires are not intended to carry any load so if I hook them up to the physical switch where there is a live Active already in play, that’s not going to go well.