My closet flush mount pull chain light went out failed in the closet. Looks like this:
Is there anything similar anyone has seen that would have Z-Wave capabilities without a lot of jury rigging? Note I will be hard wiring it not plugging it in.
My closet flush mount pull chain light went out failed in the closet. Looks like this:
Is there anything similar anyone has seen that would have Z-Wave capabilities without a lot of jury rigging? Note I will be hard wiring it not plugging it in.
You could wire any of the zwave switch modules into a dumb light fitting of your choice.
E.g.
Thanks, I’ve frequently considered these and backed away. May be something to consider this time. Only challenge is being no wall switch for the closet light I would be thinking of getting a pull switch so could theoretically turn it off and not be able to control it. Not sure if there is a way to rig this to work no matter what and the pull string would turn it on and off thru the aeotec device specifically and not cut power.
By the way, the Nano Dimmer says it literally supports pull string but one marketing blurb. Still trying to find any examples of wiring it up to the befor mentioned fixture.
The device does not care if you are using a pull switch or a foot long Frankenstein type knife switch. All it needs is to be wired to any switch and mains power. It can then output switched mains to any type of mains powered light.
You buy the light fitting with pull switch you like. Then remove or alter the existing wiring. These things are made to go behind existing switches. Very simple.
The biggest issue you will face with the type of integrated light and pull switch you have shown above is that it has a metal housing that could shield the zwave signal if you do not place the antenna very carefully along the plastic part.
So I’m game. Any idea which wires would go where with that unit? So I have a new light fixture I just got and took the cover off.
So you have the pull chain that has a black wire coming to it and then out to the house line. You will see it does have a nut on it so could be removed and something put in line.
Then it has blue and red wires on either side that come from the bulbs into the 120V box. These seem inconsequential:
Here is the black and white wire coming out of the 120V housing:
So trying to figure where the nano goes in the chain and which wires go in and which go out and in which holes on the nano.
Thanks.
JR
Seems pretty easy.
White is your neutral.
The black wire with the pull chain that’s your load line. So that goes to the “OUT” on the nano.
So swap the pull chain and connect the OUT terminal to that.
Neutral (N) to Neutral
Line (L) to Mains Line (hot) and (IN), basically loop L and IN together from your HOT line.
Of course green is your ground.
There’s a nice diagram in the manual:
Thanks firstof9. I delayed installing this unit this weekend to work this out and then missed one item. The light is $20 and this nano is like $60. The price itself isn’t an issue, but then again maybe the price is an issue. Kind of hard to justify automating a $20 light fixture with a $60 adapter. Though I may do it anyway for the fun of it.
Note I have no ground as in Chicago my whole house is metal conduit thru and thru so I have no grounding wires at all. Even the old unit the ground is left inside the casement of the light.
I recall lol
You’d be able to do this with a sonoff flashed with Tasmoto for cheaper.