Zigbee range extension over ethernet? Multiple coordinators?

Hi all. I’m running Home Assistant on a Pi5 with a Sonoff Zigbee dongle. The antenna is about head height fairly centrally-placed on the ground floor of the house. I’ve successfully got some Zigbee switches connected and working and I’ve found the network visualisation map.

I’ve got my office in an outbuilding connected by (buried) ethernet and it seems to be just too far for Zigbee to reach. I can’t really put anything in the middle as a router to bridge the gap - it seems to be at least intermittently too far.
I’ve read that you can only have one coordinator and also Smartlight say that “Connect as many coordinators to one server as you need. Cover with your Zigbee 3.0 networks different rooms and buildings and control them from one Home Assistant”. Given that there could well be overlap in signal from both coordinators, is this a problem? I could see things like switchable sockets being moved back and forward between the house and office on occasion so pairing to one network would be preferable. Presumably if I flashed it with router firmware, it wouldn’t then make any use of the ethernet link back to HA. What’s the best way to deal with this?

Many thanks in advance,
Gareth

Multiple coordinators = multiple Zigbee networks.

There is no such thing as a range extender over ethernet.

A Zigbee device can only be connected to one coordinator, and ZHA can only use one coordinator. If using Zigbee2MQTT, you can have as many coordinators as you wish.

Given both quotes, it is not a problem.

That will be a problem. You will need to re-pair if changing networks.

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Thanks Francis. Not the news I wanted but at least saved me buying the hardware and finding out the hard/expensive way!
May have to see if I can get double sockets to act as repeaters and bridge the gap. Might be possible as I think there are some in plastic back boxes on the outside wall of the house and there’s an outdoor socket that is plastic and might be deep enough.

Recommend you read all these community guides about Zigbee to hopefully save time and frustration in the long run

What Smartlight means is you can convert the SLZB-06 Coordinator to a router using their firmware update.

I own two and confirm an additional one can be used as a router and the antennas are solid. I cover nearly 8000 sqft

I had a similar problem, I have a detached garage 10-15 meters from my house. I solved the gap problem by installing Zigbee bulbs in all 10 of the outdoor lamps (four are on outside of the garage, rest on the outside of the house).

@LiQuid_cOOled Thanks for replying. Once you’ve converted it to a router, does the ethernet play any part at all or is it just a means of powering it? Just thinking that if the ethernet doesn’t play any part in the transport once it’s a router rather than a coordinator, it’s not really any different to using something like the Ikea Tradis range extender…although it probably has a better antenna.

At the moment, I’ve got an Aurora AOne Zigbee Double Smart Socket on order as if I can fit it as a replacement for the ‘dumb’ socket in the weatherproof outdoor enclosure, I think it may just bridge the gap. Tested the theory with a switchable plug in it (but the lid doesn’t quite close) and one in the kitchen and it seemed to just about work. Came down this morning to find that switched off at the wall so clearly not a reliable longterm fix!
WiFi is probably an issue but there’s not a lot I can do about it - if I free up some channels to make a gap, other people’s kit will just move in.

@fleskefjes I’ve not got a string of outdoor lamps, just a number of cheap solar things that die shortly after you get them out of the shop. There is a floodlight on the back of the house that currently has an RF433 relay in a small outdoor enclosure and I’m thinking that might be an easy replacement to form the other end of the bridge. I’ve already got a LightwaveRF wall socket that’s controlled by an RF433 remote (via automation within HA) so the same principle ought to work for the RF433 wall switch sender that controls the floodlight currently…but with the added bonus that there would be state reporting for the lamp allowing for turning it off after it’s been left on for while.

OP in this thread had a similar issue like you, he solved it by setting up a separate zigbee network. Since you already have a cabled connection out to the garage you could set up a coordinator there with a separate zigbee2mqtt instance running on your regular HA instance. There’s a trick (adding / to the end of the URL) so you can run multiple Z2M instances on the same HA instance.

@fleskefjes If I’m not forced to complicate things by bridging a separate instance via MQTT, I’ll avoid it. Also would mean that I couldn’t move things between the two networks without re-pairing them. Not a massive hassle but bound to lead to mistakes.

I’ve got a double socket in the outdoor enclosure. Bit of a squeeze to get it in - needed to trim back some of the plastic standoffs in the enclosure because the plate of the socket is thicker. Once I’d worked out what was stopping it going in, it was ok.
Now that’s part of the mesh, I’m getting LQIs of 117/50 from there to the plug in the office, 54/41 to the coordinator and 55/40 to the plug in the kitchen. All links are red or grey which suggests that it’s not ideal but it seems reliable so far. I might replace the external lamp relay anyway just to give it a bit of resilience.

@fleskefjes suggestion is described in the SLZB-06 manual as well.

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Essentially power only from the zigbee perspective. Functionally, it would be identical to something like a ZBDongle-P flashed with router firmware and plugged into a usb power brick.

The only advantage may be the ability to reboot it remotely, but I’ve never had the need with the ZBDongle-P’s I use for routers.

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I did also try this setup in the thread @fleskefjes is referring to, using two SLZBs as routers in my ZHA network (assuming they had stronger antennas than the average router).

Didn’t work for me (no straight line of sight, concrete and steel), but it might work for you.

Thanks for all the suggestions. I think it’s just about working with @fleskefjes stepping stone approach. Once I support it with another external device at the other end of the bridge, it should be decently reliable. It also replaces a device that doesn’t provide state feedback as an additional benefit.

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Fleskefjes wasn’t suggesting multiple routers. Both of us suggested two separate ZigBee networks connected via ethernet. I set mine up as a router, but based on the diagram and instructions posted , multiple coordinators is a viable option with the SLZBs. Sound like @Cenedd is close.

No, Fleskefjes suggested two different options. One of them was multiple networks and one of them was a string of outdoor lights to bridge the gap. I can’t easily do that as I’ve not got the outdoor mains power in the places that would need but I can, now the idea has been planted, put a device in an outdoor box at each end to achieve the same thing. It’s a bit eggs-in-one-basket but it seems that one outdoor device is just enough to make the bridge so two should improve it.
I didn’t want to go the route of multiple networks with MQTT partly because I didn’t fancy negotiating the extra complexity (to be honest!) but also because my network isn’t nailed down yet so devices may move. If it’s one network, they’ll just learn different routes by themselves but if it’s multiple networks, suddenly you have an isolated device because you forgot (and I would!) to re-pair it.
I’ve got a pair (one for front lamp and one for back) of SonOff relays now so I just have to get up a ladder over the weekend and swear at things for a bit :smiley: